what is the cover over the back seat that i see on many speedsters on the internet called and where can i get one??
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what is the cover over the back seat that i see on many speedsters on the internet called and where can i get one??
"Boot" or "quarter tonneau cover", available from Vintage Speedsters, JPS and others
awsome, thanks.
im new to the speedster world, i decided to finish my dads 75% complete car, what is the actual url for JPS, and some others if you feel like it.
Alex
Click on "makers" above and you will find them all listed.
Jimbo
Click on "makers" above and you will find them all listed.
Jimbo
thanks again
Alex: as a tip, if you get a "quarter tonneau" it only covers the back area where the convertible top rests when not up.
If you get a "Full tonneau" it covers the entire cockpit, offering a bit more security when parked, BUT it can be flapped down behind the seats and stowed neatly to look like a quarter version. More expensive, but more versital, too.
gn
If you get a "Full tonneau" it covers the entire cockpit, offering a bit more security when parked, BUT it can be flapped down behind the seats and stowed neatly to look like a quarter version. More expensive, but more versital, too.
gn
Alex, Gordon is exactly right, in over 3 years of driving my car I have used my full (leave as is), (leave as is) every day, and never used my quarter (leave as is), (leave as is). In fact I'll sell it if you want one.
Eddie
Eddie
Eddie,
I echo that!
Bruce
I echo that!
Bruce
ya i like the look of the full and the security, i just dont know if im gonna be able to get the $$
Leave as is, leave as is......why does the speller checker do that? I suggest that THEron doesn't leave that as is....
Whatcha think?
Whatcha think?
Gentlemen,
How much of a pain would it be to install fasteners/snaps for a full tonneau? The builder of my car decided not to install it during the build process. I certainly like the idea of closing the interior when parked outside - Keeps the roaming hands away.
I'm assuming that the two outer and two inner(rearview mirror post) fasteners, and just a matter of matching up the snaps to the existing ones on the back. Would I need to remove the windshield in the process?
Thanks - Mel
How much of a pain would it be to install fasteners/snaps for a full tonneau? The builder of my car decided not to install it during the build process. I certainly like the idea of closing the interior when parked outside - Keeps the roaming hands away.
I'm assuming that the two outer and two inner(rearview mirror post) fasteners, and just a matter of matching up the snaps to the existing ones on the back. Would I need to remove the windshield in the process?
Thanks - Mel
I had a full on my car before I took it to the body shop and had some snaps removed. There were a series of snaps along the inside of the bottom of the windshield. The full tonneau had a zip down the middle that would open just past the seat so you could drive with the tonneau on. I removed it and use the full tonneau as a quarter tonneau.
Mel - The CMC directions say to drill and attach snaps before installing the windshield. If you have a Dremell tool (or one of those flexible shafts that connects to a drill motor) - ya might be able to mark where they go with a small drill from top and then if you can get around the wiring and other under dash stuff - ya might be able to drill a straight hole up from below and attach smap with a small stainless steel screw and nut. Removing a properly fitting windshield is risky --- get it too tight on reinstall and ya buy a new one!
Mel:
While it's possible to install those snaps just inside of the windshield without removing the windshield by drilling UP from below (I did it on mine), it is a Mega-Major pain in the ass, AND you're pushing UP against the gel and paint coats so that when you contact the gel coat with your drill, chances are you'll push a BIG gel chip up off the dash - not exactly cool. You can get around this a bit if you have a semi-soft piece of rubber to push down hard on the dash exactly above the drill exit point, but it's still iffy at best.
I would strongly recommend removing the windshield, installing the snap receptacles from above, then re-installing the windshield. Remember to use a relatively dull dril and run it slowly with light pressure so as not to chip the paint/gel coat.
BTW: without going out in the garage to look, I have only three snaps on each side at the front, NOT the "one-snap-every-5-inches" the CMC manual recommends. One an inch away on each side of the center support, one about mid-way to the end and one just behind the windshield corner post.....that's it, and works fine.
Gordon
While it's possible to install those snaps just inside of the windshield without removing the windshield by drilling UP from below (I did it on mine), it is a Mega-Major pain in the ass, AND you're pushing UP against the gel and paint coats so that when you contact the gel coat with your drill, chances are you'll push a BIG gel chip up off the dash - not exactly cool. You can get around this a bit if you have a semi-soft piece of rubber to push down hard on the dash exactly above the drill exit point, but it's still iffy at best.
I would strongly recommend removing the windshield, installing the snap receptacles from above, then re-installing the windshield. Remember to use a relatively dull dril and run it slowly with light pressure so as not to chip the paint/gel coat.
BTW: without going out in the garage to look, I have only three snaps on each side at the front, NOT the "one-snap-every-5-inches" the CMC manual recommends. One an inch away on each side of the center support, one about mid-way to the end and one just behind the windshield corner post.....that's it, and works fine.
Gordon
One other thing to watch if your dash is covered is that you don't catch a couple of threads in the vinyl.
Bruce:
Good point - I didn't have a vinyl cover on my dash when I drilled those holes (still don't, as a matter of fact).
I remember that I did one with a Dremel, but switched to a regular variable-speed drill on a low speed setting for the rest (with very gentle drill pressure).
A neat trick for drilling through both threaded-back vinyl material OR carpeting, without pulling the threads or carpet strands, is to dip your drill bit into Johnson's Hardwood Floor Wax just before you start drilling. This really works - I learned this in a prior life as a car stereo installer.
gn
Good point - I didn't have a vinyl cover on my dash when I drilled those holes (still don't, as a matter of fact).
I remember that I did one with a Dremel, but switched to a regular variable-speed drill on a low speed setting for the rest (with very gentle drill pressure).
A neat trick for drilling through both threaded-back vinyl material OR carpeting, without pulling the threads or carpet strands, is to dip your drill bit into Johnson's Hardwood Floor Wax just before you start drilling. This really works - I learned this in a prior life as a car stereo installer.
gn
Sometimes I just sit back with my jaw dropped in amazement!
Cost of membership.......$35.00
Stuff you learn...........PRICELESS!
Cost of membership.......$35.00
Stuff you learn...........PRICELESS!
Hey! That reminds me!
I've lost my Smiley face!!
Guess I've gotta learn how to use that Paypal stuff again (this is the only place I've ever used it for!!)
thanks, gn
I've lost my Smiley face!!
Guess I've gotta learn how to use that Paypal stuff again (this is the only place I've ever used it for!!)
thanks, gn
Gordo.... we're both faceless !
i would have to say that this is definately the best comunity i have ever been involved in for anything period.
Gordon,
Good tip! One of the reasons I haven't drilled the dash for the full cover was because of the vinyl. Are you sure this works? I recently drilled a 1/4-inch hole for a blinking security light but carefully sliced the vinyl with a razor knife in that area first. I'll have to try the wax trick.
Good tip! One of the reasons I haven't drilled the dash for the full cover was because of the vinyl. Are you sure this works? I recently drilled a 1/4-inch hole for a blinking security light but carefully sliced the vinyl with a razor knife in that area first. I'll have to try the wax trick.
East Coast Bruce:
Yes, believe me, this trick really works. I keep a can of Johnson's Floor wax in the shop just for that sort of thing. I must have installed over 100 car stereo's as a co-op job in college and never had a pull when I used it. If I forgot, or got lazy, then that's another matter.
Just dip it in the length of the drill bit, don't wipe it off or anything, just start drilling. Re-dip for the next hole and so forth.
gn
Yes, believe me, this trick really works. I keep a can of Johnson's Floor wax in the shop just for that sort of thing. I must have installed over 100 car stereo's as a co-op job in college and never had a pull when I used it. If I forgot, or got lazy, then that's another matter.
Just dip it in the length of the drill bit, don't wipe it off or anything, just start drilling. Re-dip for the next hole and so forth.
gn
Gordon & Wolfgang
I took a look at the space I had to work with. Coming in from the top, Dremel with the flex attachment was still a little tight. I might have some room if I back it out a bit from the exact location.
I looked underneath and that just makes me too nervous trying to negotiate the space. I don't think I could line it up evenly, let alone worry about chipping fiberglass and tearing vinyl.
Removing the windshield would be the proper way to go.
I'll have to think about how bad I want this option.
Thanks for the help as always - Mel
I took a look at the space I had to work with. Coming in from the top, Dremel with the flex attachment was still a little tight. I might have some room if I back it out a bit from the exact location.
I looked underneath and that just makes me too nervous trying to negotiate the space. I don't think I could line it up evenly, let alone worry about chipping fiberglass and tearing vinyl.
Removing the windshield would be the proper way to go.
I'll have to think about how bad I want this option.
Thanks for the help as always - Mel
I wonder if some velcro strips on both sides of the mirror post along with some snaps by the door top might not work. No drilling in a tight spot.
My 2 centavo's, Bruce
My 2 centavo's, Bruce
I would go with the pull the windshield option. It is a simple proceedure:
Remove the center support rod nut that is under the dash, leave the rod attached to the windshield frame ... ( it can't be easily removed from the frame at this time unless the dash hole is larger that the rod diameter)
Remove the four screws on the windshield posts, have someone help you by "gently" ...lifting the windshield assembly evenly about 2" to 3" away from the body , once the center rod has cleared the top of the dash, then pull the center support rod up 1/16" to release it from the top windshield frame.
~ Alan
Remove the center support rod nut that is under the dash, leave the rod attached to the windshield frame ... ( it can't be easily removed from the frame at this time unless the dash hole is larger that the rod diameter)
Remove the four screws on the windshield posts, have someone help you by "gently" ...lifting the windshield assembly evenly about 2" to 3" away from the body , once the center rod has cleared the top of the dash, then pull the center support rod up 1/16" to release it from the top windshield frame.
~ Alan
Mel,
Make sure you get the re-install procedure from Alan...that's where it gets touchy. :>)
Make sure you get the re-install procedure from Alan...that's where it gets touchy. :>)
BTW, I saw an interesting suggestion for a windshield center rod on a (real) 356 listserv a couple of nights ago. Cut a rod from a shopping cart, bend one end in a vice into a hook shape, tap threads on the other. Sounds like it would work...always wondered why those rods were missing on some shoppng carts.
Alan:
Why not leave the windshield frame attached to the corner posts and just remove the nuts from the posts below the dash and lift the whole thing (windshield frame, posts and all) right off, then gently lift off the windshield?? It would seem easier to remove the posts than to remove the frame screws from the posts (and then have to fight to get them back in on re-installation as there is a tiny bit of tension there.
This is about the opposite to what I did to install it, and it seemed to work OK, although I have very little downward "pull" on that frame - the windshield is almost floating, it's so loose.
Of course, I might find out that I installed it wrong in the first place!!
gn
Why not leave the windshield frame attached to the corner posts and just remove the nuts from the posts below the dash and lift the whole thing (windshield frame, posts and all) right off, then gently lift off the windshield?? It would seem easier to remove the posts than to remove the frame screws from the posts (and then have to fight to get them back in on re-installation as there is a tiny bit of tension there.
This is about the opposite to what I did to install it, and it seemed to work OK, although I have very little downward "pull" on that frame - the windshield is almost floating, it's so loose.
Of course, I might find out that I installed it wrong in the first place!!
gn
Just a thought. Don't put the dash snaps or tenex so far forward. They do not need to be way up by the windshield. Could that work?
gn
Can be done that way also and if may...be as easy if not easier but you made a good point about refitting the 4 small screws back into the windshield frame they may easily strip out due to the thin wall aluminum that has only a couple of threads tapped into it.
I just though that it might be best to go with minimal parts removal...
Can be done that way also and if may...be as easy if not easier but you made a good point about refitting the 4 small screws back into the windshield frame they may easily strip out due to the thin wall aluminum that has only a couple of threads tapped into it.
I just though that it might be best to go with minimal parts removal...