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Ed, I've seen your car. You have a LOT of sanding to do if you want to pass it off as a Speedster.

Mat, the 356 ignition switch assembly can be had new, OEM for just about sixty bucks. It's a Bosch unit, and easy to mount through the dashboard.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GENUINE-BOSCH-Porsche-356-B-C-Ignition-Switch-w-Keys-/180212042214?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item29f57989e6

Looks like this:

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  • 100406 lights and switches II
  • 101306 instrument wiring harness
Mat,

I have the same blinker assembly w/ignition plinth that you currently have in your car, right here beside me. I removed the key housing on it and filled in the massive hole with aluminum and JB Weld, a skim of Tiger Hair, then filler and paint and it looks like the key was never there, yet retains mounting for the blinker assembly and off of the upper steering shaft supports and bearing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/smoothhead2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/smoothhead1.jpg

You want?

You got, just lemme know your mailing address and I'll send if right off to you. You can swap you internals over to the new housing, re-wire the key to the dash with any key switch from everywhere from Walmarts to Pep Boys, or the internet if you must.

And you're done ! ! !

If you're leery of doing the swap over yourself, pull that out of your car and send it to me and I'll do it for you. I'll even drill some little holes in that big ol' directional shaft for you, make it look more vintage and race-ready.

Lemme know,

TC
Yelp!! Did you get my article. I rewrote? It should get you a pretty much authentic looking colum I made the contact kit like 55 bug

If you prefer to peace 2 of the outer cases together to get the 31 inch length for the outer case? Thats ok too But the 34 inch length for the inner shaft iis my best re measure and upgrade as i said the super beetle uni joint is a better part tooo.

They rarely fail..
One more problem You will need a grant style steering wheel adaper fiberglassed over to look more like mine or do a major mod like I did on the 66 to 72 alumium tapered adapter . i cut away almost 3/4s of it. and re drilled for the banjo. use plenty of WD 40 while cutting a tapping

If your lucky and have a lathe to cut it down WD 40 makes it cut nicely and in stringy curles .. keep it oiled..

The part you see between the turn switch and steering wheel is only 7/8 of a inch thick on mine There is a splined protrusion on the bottom in the middle like a grant style If you use a real nardi wheel you can re drill and tap it for the other pattern..

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  • radio
Yes I did get the email thank you.

Hi Matt, Ok I took 2 inner shafts to make mine longer. I'll call ya if needed after you have had time to read and understand this.. I await reply

I went to a electical conduit guy to get a new peace of pipe to make a nice outer case out of conduit stock that matched the Vw colum bearing incerts, also make sure it matches your 67 turn signal case where it clamps around the shaft.. Im thinkin it was 1 and 1/4.. I put a 66 vw colum bearing at both ends of my colum because im using a superbeetle uni joint between it and the steering box (My colum is straight in the car not off kiltered like many I have seen.)

I put a 1 inch copper plumping spool as my contact race about 11 inches from the top of the inner shaft Insulated then spacered with milk jug plastic and glued with JB Weld to set it firmly on the shaft

I soldered a wire to it on the top edge of the spool and drilled a 1/4 inch hole beside the spool so i could run the wire up inside the shaft to the top. for the horn button,, leave 6 inches sticking out extra. to wire your horn button.

The lengthened inner shaft will finish at 34 inches to the tips .. The outer case will finish out a 31 inches this will give you some fudge room to set your steering wheel clearance from the dash eyebrow.. I went 4 inches but you can have more.. These are adjusted figures for improvement .. You can easily shorten the uni joint if needed.. uesing the same method discribed below on the shaft mods..

I went 4 inches below the spool and cut it. and drilled six 1/4 inch holes in it around the end 2 rows of um and took a 3 inch bolt that fit tight inside the shaft and cut of the hex. and incerted it 1 and 1/2 inch into the shaft and then retouched each hole with the drill to clean the metal for welding ,,one hole at a time as I spot welded each hole up. (You can drill and add more spot welds if you like )

I let the lower peace of shaft be 1/4 short of the finished length. so you will also have a 1/4 inch gap between the 2 shaft peaces that you can also weld up for extra strength . Then drill for 6 spot welds on the lower end to weld it the same way as the top end of the cut..

That completes the inner shaft the tricky part. Use it to find the center of the contact race for your horn contact..

Cut you outer case to 31 inches and mark it for the hole where your horn contact brush will go you can do a small test hole and assembe the shaft and bearings to mark the inner race with a pencel redo it if needed.

When you assemble the outer case..,, snug your bearing from top to bottom endplay with a hose clamp and washer at the bottom bearing..

Now the brush contact.. I used a vw starter brush and ground it into a pencel size pin with a wire at the top center.. finished it off by hand with a file.

Now the holder. I went o the local handware and got a 1/2 fully treaded steel pipe fitting and a brass hex cap plug that fit it . I cut the pipe to 1 and 1/2 ..Then made a liner for the cap plug and the pipe out of the milk jug plastic again for the brush to ride in and be insulated you will drill a 1/8 hole in the cap plug for the wire to come out of and soulder a wire to the brush wire.. I used a dash lite bulb holder spring from a vw above the brush under the cap plug..

When you have found the center of the spool and drilled a hole the right size for the pipe fittng you can spot weld a steel nut over the hole that your pipe fitting will install in..

Install the fitting making sure it dose not touch the spool inside and use lock tight to lock it in place

To test the horn circut you can put a meter on the center shaft wire and the brush contact wire should complete the horn circut to check the spool for shorts just touch the outer case with the brush lead from the meter while maintaining the center wire you shouldn't get anything .. Dido on the reverse with the contact brush wire..

YOU will need to add a muffler clamp and a 4 inch square plate at the bottom of you colum to the top of the body cowl to hold it firmy in place with 4.. bolts 1/4 x 20 trd in the plate to fiberglass body then the 2 holes for the clamp that matches your colum diameter.. around the colum through the plate above
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