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Crank Pulley replacement

DaveOBrienDaveOBrien
Well I finally got started on my list of Tub improvement projects Saturday.

First on the list was to replace the crank pulley. It was a degree billet power pulley that I replaced with a stock size CB degree billet pulley.

You need a 30mm or 1-3/16" wrench put the tub in fourth gear and wrench it off. Kinda tight for a socket wrench so I used a 30mm wrench. An adjustable wrench would have worked fine. It came off OK snug but not frozen on. The CB pulley is really machined well and a little tight. Got in on and had to get a sand seal (longer) 30mm bolt from my local Vparts store. I was able to get the pulley all the way on the shaft and used to original VW 30mm bolt. Supposed to be around 30-35 pds torque but I will just cinch it up. Can you get this too tight?

I started her up and I will have to perform some body work on the lower sheet metal, it seems to be rubbing on the new pulley and grinding the back side of the pulley (small amount of alum shavings and noise). Should I try any thing else first like spacer washers between the crank and pulley? seems like banging the SM out of the way is the best way to resolve this. Opinions welcome.

The new fan belt is lined up with both upper and lower pulleys right now and I have extra Gen pulley spacer washers if needed.

Cheers
Dave
1959 Intermeccanica(Convertible D)
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DaveOBrienDaveOBrien
Well I finally got started on my list of Tub improvement projects Saturday.

First on the list was to replace the crank pulley. It was a degree billet power pulley that I replaced with a stock size CB degree billet pulley.

You need a 30mm or 1-3/16" wrench put the tub in fourth gear and wrench it off. Kinda tight for a socket wrench so I used a 30mm wrench. An adjustable wrench would have worked fine. It came off OK snug but not frozen on. The CB pulley is really machined well and a little tight. Got in on and had to get a sand seal (longer) 30mm bolt from my local Vparts store. I was able to get the pulley all the way on the shaft and used to original VW 30mm bolt. Supposed to be around 30-35 pds torque but I will just cinch it up. Can you get this too tight?

I started her up and I will have to perform some body work on the lower sheet metal, it seems to be rubbing on the new pulley and grinding the back side of the pulley (small amount of alum shavings and noise). Should I try any thing else first like spacer washers between the crank and pulley? seems like banging the SM out of the way is the best way to resolve this. Opinions welcome.

The new fan belt is lined up with both upper and lower pulleys right now and I have extra Gen pulley spacer washers if needed.

Cheers
Dave

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DaveOBrienDaveOBrien
I was able to bend the upper tin quite easily (original sheet metal)and it quieted down. This was at deck level about midpoint on the pulley.

Took the VW TUB for a drive on the freeway and street (10-15 miles one way)and the temp went to 210 which is 5 to 10 degrees less than normal on a warm day mid 70's.

Looks like I will still have to get under the car and work on the bottom portion of tin. This is at the bottom of the pulley, I got some tweaking to do. When it warms up the tin moves about a little so it rubs intermittently. Man that original tin is very strong German Steel!

That is even without removing the solid weatherstripping on the engine lid and installing buttons.

Bill, I got the non sand CB seal pulley. But I will ask them if they recommend a washer on the stock billet pulley.

Project TUB Cooldown continues

Dave

DaveOBrienDaveOBrien
After a little further research I found this on CB Performance

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=253

It looks like I would have to move the Sheet Metal back or shim out the crank pulley. I would much rather shim the crank pulley than bang the SM.

While I wait for the shim kit I also ordered the pulley puller. Something tells me I will want to add the puller to my tool box.

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1062

Whats next on the list?

Dave
FM Former Member
Dave, I say bang the sheet metal. But before you do anything---the shims you are looking at are for "correcting" an alignment issue between the Gen and crank=how's yours? If your's are fine now you will be altering that alignment

After rereading your post I see you have ck'd the alignment--it's just me, I'm not fond of spacers etc..
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