Re Shipping
If your kit is standard then fine but if you need different parts and not this part ie no vSS then talking to them might be a good idea as they mix and match parts
Just saying
I am going to try the DIY speed sensor I mentioned above. If I can't get that to work I will probably get their magnet kit.
If you need or want help call Michael Fox (800) 343-1382 M&R
call and bounce your ideas with him he is a great help and information source on Rostra kits that they sell
and can help take the fog out of all the steps needed
Best on your journey
Nah, they will never leak, just rust in place so that neither love nor money will get them free. But so what??
I received my cruise control order yesterday. I am going to attempt to get it working before Tour de Smo'. There are, however, some things that have higher priority - improved transmission venting, new main jets, new side curtains.
I really have to ask why does your transmission need better venting? Planning on a light-speed Kessel run are we?
@DannyP, I have a Berg 5. Most builders install a hose from the vent that terminates up high from the transmission. Mine has a kind of porous plug instead of the hose. I have driven it about 500 miles and am getting a lot of oil leakage that I assume is coming from this porous plug. In addition to the hose from the front, many people now add a second hose from above the R&P. I am going to drill and tap a hole above the R&P and run hoses from there and the original location to a breather box. I am hoping grease on the drill bit and tap keep metal bits out of the transmission. I will also drain and replace the oil.
I received the DIY speed sensor today that senses CV bolt heads. After spending some time under the car today I realized it won't work for me because I don't have standard CV bolts. Mine have some extra bits on the head to keep them from unscrewing.
So, I will send the sensor to anyone who can make use of it.
I ordered something like this only to fit a Type 1 transmission:
Michael is there anything preventing you from just making the standard "Wheel O' Death" DIY VSS as in many Suby swaps?
Bolt to the CV joint, make a little L bracket and get a $5 proximity sensor like
Sorry if this is stupid.
Michael McKelvey posted:@DannyP, I have a Berg 5. Most builders install a hose from the vent that terminates up high from the transmission. Mine has a kind of porous plug instead of the hose. I have driven it about 500 miles and am getting a lot of oil leakage that I assume is coming from this porous plug. In addition to the hose from the front, many people now add a second hose from above the R&P. I am going to drill and tap a hole above the R&P and run hoses from there and the original location to a breather box. I am hoping grease on the drill bit and tap keep metal bits out of the transmission. I will also drain and replace the oil.
I had one of those on my subie tranny and it leaked like a sieve... better to have two barbs attached to a hose running to a catch can which will vent the tranny and allow frothing to occur there without spilling out.
As to drilling it out ... not sure grease will hold it, maybe if your drilling the tranny upside down, then you drain the oil. I would hate to see that tranny full of filings.
Maybe you can convert just the porous plus without risking the tranny... just saying.
I have replaced the porous plug with a barbed fitting. Now I am thinking of installing a hose on it and hooking that to my compressor. Then I can hope that the pressurized air inside the transmission will blow any chips out. I really want to drill and tap the new hole without removing the engine and transmission. I have removed the starter and I can reach up above the transmission but I can't see up there to drill and tap the hole.
I received the $40 Rostra clutch switch today and it looks like there is no way to install it. @IaM-Ray, do you have a picture of your clutch switch installed and information about where to procure a switch like yours?
@edsnova, maybe I could have done that but I decided to just buy something that I can just bolt on without doing fabrication.
I understand your desire to get her done Michael, but I personally would not do it 
I'll find the picts.... Update, here it is, @Michael McKelvey essentially I went to a small electronic store that sells all sorts of parts, switches and this one is a micro switch and has 3 connectors, you simply put a quickconnector with an 18 guage wire on the ground and another on the NClosed, or N-Open. Depending on how you will wire it to the Rostra. I then took a small piece of metal and drilled two holes and used two bolts to hold it to it... the large hole is a rough sized hole to allow some adjustment. This is what I used to put a large nut and lock washer to hold it on my tranny.
On my setup I pushed the long arm portion right tight up on the clutch arm which pushes the GREY button. You then depress the clutch and it activates. Hope this is clear... My mind most time goes faster than my fingerins...
Attachments
Images (1)
BTW, those are all on this thread.
Here is a pict that Jimmy posted of his tranny, I would think that you could fix a bracket on that bolt and bend it to oriented properly to hold the switch I suggested or even the one that you bought from Rostra. Essentially you have to adjust it close enough that it is PUSHED IN... then you depress the clutch the arm pulls away and voila, mais oui
Attachments
Images (1)
I will check again but I think the Rostra switch is longer than the one in the photo. It didn't seem like there was enough room behind the clutch lever. It looks like maybe the switch in the photo may be mounted from the bolt that holds the engine to the transmission but I can't discern the bracket.
@IaM-Ray, I did see this picture of your switch before. I was wondering how it attaches to the transmission or whatever it is mounted on.
Mike, I didn't realize you had a Berg 5 and that they suffered from trans oil problems. I have that same little breather plug in my trans, because it has the PBS cable-shifter custom nosecone. It works fine, but I have a 4 speed and it's in a similar location to factory. No clue as to reason why the Berg 5 froths the oil up, except maybe the 5th gear being outside the normal gear carrier. Maybe oil level a bit too high?
@Michael McKelvey, sorry, since there was a hole in the Subie tranny on top near the clutch arm... see pict .... those holes take a M10 or M8 bolt so the switch is butted against the arm... the BIG hole on the bracket is where the bolt goes through... is that a bit clearer? bottom pict is the top in the car before the bracket ...
Attachments
Images (2)
I removed then porous plug in the front of my transmission and put in a barbed fitting and hose.
Then I attached my compressor to the hose and pressurized the inside of my transmission preparing to drill a hole for the second vent. I was very surprised to see my CV joint boots inflate.
I also greased the drill bit and tap and installed a second barbed fitting and hose above the R&P on the passenger side.
I ran both hoses to an EMPI breather box high up in the space above the transmission, above the CMC 2x4.
The Rostra clutch switch is too long to fit behind the clutch lever on the transmission. I am hoping I can return it even though I opened the plastic bags inside the box. It cost $40.
I ordered a Gordon style brake switch to use with the clutch. I am going to try mounting the arm on the Gordon switch at a 90-degree angle to the clutch lever.
@DannyP, here is tire calculator rather than a chart. It seems to give lower revs/mile than the chart you had the link to.
https://tiresize.com/calculator/
It yields 819 revs/mile for my tires - 178/70 R15.
Two other calculators have 818 and 82
@Michael McKelvey are you planning to turn the wheels by hand a bit then drain the oil to try to check for any filings? ....Do you have a magnetic plug? I have one on my Subie and when I change the oil I always check for filings.
It's just precautionary work in any case. Even if you do have a magnetic plug I wonder If you can insert a magnet from below to try to remove all the filings if any fell in.
You may have found a way to do it that is unconventional ... I personally have never seen someone do it that way .... but that does not mean it can't be done.
I used Archoil in my tranny after the break-in period as I was finding it a bit notchy... it seems to have helped a bit. Now that the tranny has more miles on it, it shifts more smoothly. Good luck on the work before Smo.
I didn't think about turning the wheels. I did delay before draining the oil, thinking maybe any bits might settle. I was drilling aluminum so any bits wouldn't stick to the magnetic plug. I watched as the oil drained out and might have seen one bit.
Aluminun & SSteel are the same you have to wait for the stuff to settle to the bottom... Well you can always do some miles, how many I don't know, and then try to flush it a second time. IT is too bad you could not force feed it from the top to kind of rinse it downwards... It might be fine... my OCDness is coming out.
Are you going to buy the VSS from Carey? .... M Fox at M&R mentioned to me that they have a GPS that could work ... if you want to call them to find out more info.
@IaM-Ray, I looked at Carey's speed sensor. It looks like it extends about 3" from the back of the speedometer. Also, I am trying to do this without running any wires from the front to the back of the car.
I ordered a speed sensor from these guys: https://www.vancafe.com/product-p/rmw-ch395ss.htm . They have a version for a Type 1 transmission. It will be nice to have one component that just bolts on with no fabrication of a bracket, etc.
Well that is good thing, getting a good VSS is the most important feature needed for the CPU to properly hold the speed.
Getting any wires from the front to the back... then how or where are you going to put the cruise control switch... or you can use the bottom unit which is wireless. All from Rostra site.
Attachments
Images (2)
I have the wireless switch in your bottom picture. Typically the switch and receiver are located pretty close to each other. The switch is mounted on the bottom side of the steering wheel hub and the receiver is behind the dash. I want to put the receiver in the engine compartment. Whoever I talked to in the Cruise Control Store thought they might be able to communicate over a 10' distance. I hope he is right.
The receiver has an antenna wire about 12" long. I wonder if its orientation makes any difference.
You might be able to put it in between the seats as well, or on the bottom edge of the dash. I use Velcro a lot when I am not sure where I will like something. Depending on your carpet you can use the HARD loops to crab the carpet or simply glue the soft side and try it for a few days somewhere ... a little alcohol and it is removed.
I plan to put the switch on the bottom edge of the dash a bit left of the light switch. The switch slides onto a clip (the middle thing in your picture). I plan to attach the clip to a bracket hanging down from the defroster pipe coming off the vertical subframe member in front of the door.
@Michael McKelvey how did the cruise control work out?
I have everything installed but it doesn't work. I have to run through the troubleshooting routine. I suspect I may have to adjust the sensitivity for my speed sensor. It also may be the case that my wireless switch is too far from the receiver. Someone at the Cruise Control store thought it would work at up to 10' separation. I have about half that and there is no metal between the switch and receiver.
The two things that can be varied are sensitivity and how hard the cable pulls on the linkage.
Ask for Michael F Fox, he is very good at troubleshooting.
I thought a bit about driving there if I have trouble getting it working.
Well sometimes another pair of eyes helps out. I did pay to have a remote camera installed on my son's jetta I just got tired and brought it.
Stumbled on this VW pedal cluster switch on the Samba, if anyone needs it:
Yes Danny, I had posted that when we talked about micro switch on the brake and clutch. I used a relay instead and fed the relay from the brake light and put a similar microswitch on the tranny clutch arm on the tranny.