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I'm not sure why I never thought of doing it this way before, but my "Cruzin" Windows can easily be mounted on CMC, FiberFabs or any other Speedster that has a door rail at the top of the door panel.

If the side curtain mount holes don't match up right out of the box like they do for Vintage and JPS cars, all you need to do is drill a couple of new holes in the door rails!  I can even supply the finishing grommets.  You may even be able to use one of the exisiting holes and only drill one new one on each side.  Easy Peasy!

So if you have been coveting thy neighbors "Cruzin" Windows, but didn't think they would work on your car, covet no more.  I just had another run of them made and I am still offering them to SOC members at a $50 discount over the eBay price, but they go quick, so don't wait.

I'm not sure why we are still having the squished up images issue, but here is the link   http://kvan.hopto.org/CruzinWindows.htm

 

Last edited by Troy Sloan
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Troy    Those are some really sharp looking windows    Some Q's though...    My Beck door sill holes are 20 7/8" apart; the front hole is 4 5/8" behind the windshield brace's intersection with the front fender    So can I get these Cruzin' thangs to fit on my Beck?    also what's the price for a pair?     Dave Bash   Indy

Dave and Joe.

In your case, you would need to drill additional holes in your door rails like I described above.  You might be able to use at least one of the current holes and only drill one new one on each side, but that is pretty hard to determine until you actually have the windows in hand.

You may also want to talk to Carey at Beck, since he owns a set of my "Cruzin" windows for his own car.

One other option is that I do have the outer chrome pieces without the pin mounting holes drilled.  In that case, you would need to drill the 4 pin mounting holes in the correct location on the chrome piece and through the windows as well.  A little more involved than just drilling new holes in the door rails, but still easy to do.

 

The eBay price is $300 + $25 shipping, but SOC members get them for $250 + $25 shipping.

I currently own a set and have not taken them off since I installed them in May 2012, when I received my brand new VS. Troy is right in that the windows will not cut off as much wind as you would hope. There is some protection, but the majority of the wind is hitting you from behind. The fact is, the windshield is low and we all sit nearly even with the top of the windshield so it will be windy. That's all part of riding in a open top. There is no argument that these windows add an appeal to the car. They are meant for the Speedster. A small price to pay to add yet another detail to this timeless classic.

Originally Posted by Aldog:

Troy, just wondering how they would look and how much of a gap would there be if the top was up. I'm thinking winter cold, not necessarily wet weather.

Lots of people have asked the same question.  With the top up it looks like the windows are partially rolled down.  They touch the top at the front, but taper to about a 1.5 inch gap at the rear.

On a trip to the redwood forest with my son a couple of years ago, we encountered some cloudy, cool weather and I actually did put the top up with my "Cruzin" windows in place.  They did a better job of keeping the heat in than no windows at all, but not as well as the regular side curtains would have done.

They simply were not designed for top up driving and that is why I only market them as top down "Cruzin" windows.

Originally Posted by Joe Fortino:

I like cool.. let me know how you want to handle the transaction.

 

My email is joe dot fortino AT sbcglobal.net

Hi Joe.

The SOC member "Bro" price is $50 less than the eBay price of $300.  So they will be $250 + $25 for shipping, total of $275.  Send it to my PayPal account vanatic99@yahoo.com.  If you don't have PayPal you can mail me a check

Please be aware that drilling and tapping through the chrome plating can easily damage it and the same is true for the windows.  If you damage the chrome, you can always use a cap screw from the outside in to cover it and that would not look bad at all.  That would also eliminate the need to thread the bar.  Drilling through the acrylic is not for the faint of heart.  Be very careful.

I would highly recommend, that you simply drill new holes in your door cap.  Much easier to do.  Or, you can do like Carey planned to do, just get a new set of door caps.

Troy

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