CSP bellcrank linkage for dual IDF

This is what I have:
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C31%2D129%2D941%2D110

Beautiful and new. It has the optional return spring.
It doesn't fit a 2110. Ask me how I know...
I paid $120.00. Yours for $90 + shipping.

I have that same linkage and love it. Good price.

I am curious why it doesn't fit a 2110.

Engine is too wide. I'm close to the end of the threads on the linkage arms.

Couldn't you just get or make longer rods?

~WB

Sure, Bill. I could source some new rods, they would have to be thicker because they become quite flexible at that length. Then I'd have to find larger ball and socket caps...
It's a beautiful linkage and it really cleans up the engine bay by getting rid of the orthodontia (hex bar linkage).
That's why I tried it but it doesn't work for me without concerted effort.
My experiment leads to a great deal for you.
I'll give you guys first shot but then it's off to the Samba on Monday.

My engine is 1.2" wider than stock, high deck block, and I am using the CSP bellcrank. But, as suggested above I had to modify it a bit. I cut both rods, then thru drilled a pair of 1/4" mild steel rods, each about 1.5" long, the hole being the diameter of the cut rods. Inserted the cut ends of the rods into the 1/4 drilled rod, slid them out by .6" on each, then brazed them in that position. Painted the modification with spray silver. Re-installed on the engine, adjusted and synced the carbs, haven't touched them since. IME the center pull carb set up from CSP is far superior to the hex bar stuff, even with Gorden (and others) very sound retrofits with bearings and the like.

The total time to modify the CSP linkage for my large engine was under 1/2 hour. Unless you have a high deck engine case, this should be unnecessary...