CSP Shifter

I received an early Christmas gift this year, a new CSP shifter. I replace my stock Vintage installed shifter with this, and I am really satisfied with it. Reverse was always a chore to engage before, and the rest of the gears were hit and miss. The new shifter is an easier reach too. It took a little adjustment to get it sorted out, but it's easy cruising now!

Robert - COOL - but you STILL won't be able to keep up with Tamara!!

Peace - Out!

BWAH HAH HAH!!!!! We're taking over!!!!

Nice, aren't they?

Jim,

I gave up on that years ago. Even if we switched cars, she would still win!

CSP baby. I had to have it adjusted after the Dragon run. Now its super crisp.

Marty

On the CSP website, there is a choice of 40 or 60% ratio. What exactly is that referring to and what do you guys/gals recommend? Can they be ordered somewhere in the US and how much?
Troy

Troy,
I'm pretty sure it means it reduces the distance (throw) from gear to gear by 40 or 60%. By that I mean there is less travel in the shifter from 1st to 2nd resulting in quicker shifting.
I'm considering one to replace my Empi but I'm not sure HOW much better they are. I REALLY like the look of the CSP though. It's the only one that has a decent looking boot. All the rest look cheap. I'm also considering fabricating a steel box as a "boot" to give my empi more of an old racer look.


http://www.vwparts.net/CSP711120202K.html

They can be ordered from CIP1.com,vwparts.net/CSP.html and from the US CSP classicandspeedparts.com.

Directly from US CSP may be cheaper than from the other two.

I think the 40%/60% choice only applies to the T-Handle shifter, not to the Ball-Handle.

When I ordered mine I was told that the 40%/60% choice applied to all. I recommend the 40% reduction. I honestly think you'd have trouble determining the differences between 1 & 3 and 2 & 4 with the 60%. As for how it feels, the only VW shifter I've driven that felt as good is the Gene Berg In Gordon's car. Mickey, the boot is nicely made, but I've had to cover mine up with one that matches the other leather in the car. With a black interior it would not be a problem. I do think it's the best shifter out there.

I do agree on the 40% reduction. The 60% would be too much.
I tried to order mine through CIP in Canada several times, but the one I wanted was always out of stock. I saw that VEE DUB parts in Huntington Beach had them. I gave them a call, they had the one I wanted, and I drove down and picked it up.

Merry Christmas to me!

I agree with Lane and Robert, the 40% is reduced plenty. It falls right into the gears.

Marty

I want. I am tired of the ball on the end of a coat hanger deal I have that will slip out of sorts now and then and act like a wide receiver that just got slammed to the gound and totally dislocated his shoulder. The shifter sort of goes around about 90 degrees CCW, and will not work the gears. I can get it to pop back in, but it takes some work and meanwhile the car is still coasting along, the clutch is in and you're trying to drive and . . . well, you get the picture. So let's cut to the chase: this item (40% reduction) is the best, right? How much?? Both in $$ to get and time to install? Any drilling, welding needed? Just asking. Will cruise the websites and see what I can see.

Kelly,
The same thing with me. I got tired of gear hunting in the middle of an intersection with multiple SUVs heading up my fanny so I got a 40% Gene Berg for my JPS coupe. It installed in about 5 minutes and was such a pleasure to drive that I put one in my VS speedster as well, even though it had an Empi that worked better than the stock units, but not nearly as slick as the Berg. Even though I like the look of the ball and trigger CSP better than the T handled Berg, the Berg HQ is 5 minutes from my house and they had all versions hooked up to trannies in their showroom so you can try before you buy. Plus they have about a 20 year track record with their product. Also their in store cash and carry price is $203+ tax which is substantially less than the CSP. If you decide on a Berg I'll be glad to pick one up and ship it to you so you can get the good price. As I said earlier, it took me about 5 minutes to install, so you could do it in about 90 seconds. As you always say,"It ain't rocket science"

I like the CSP and the Berg.
The nice thing about the CSP is the shifter ball. It's a nice size for your hand. Berg's ball version is so large you feel you're pulling on the BIG DOLLAR slot machine.
I like the Berg "T" shifter, but it doesn't look "period correct".
Now, with the Berg 5 speed I'm pretty much locked in to use their shifter.
40% throw is plenty. The only reason I could see using a 60% would be for drag racing or in a bus as the shaft is so long you shift through different area codes from first to second...

I have the Berg 40% short throw, as Lane mentioned above. Shifts are very precise and crisp and the feel is terrific. However, it has a T-handle (which says "GENE BERG" on it) which a lot of people feel is out of place in these cars.

I thought about that (having been used to the nice, curved shift stick and ball in 356 B's) but opted for the "T" anyway. It fits your hand nicely and is very easy to operate. The reverse lockout button sits right where your thumb expects it to be, and has a positive enough lockout that I've never hit reverse when trying to downshift into 2'nd, even on the track. Interestingly, I've had several real 356 drivers see it and comment that they've heard they're pretty good and "I wonder if one would fit my original car??"

I've not driven with a CSP, but played with one at Carlisle in someone's car - don't think I've driven Lane's - and while they feel tight, the one I played with wasn't as precise as a Berg. But then, a lot of the "feel" comes from a new rod bushing, coupler and rod cup bushing, too. If you're replacing the shifter, you should also replace those to make everything like new - that's probably the most important part.

So the CSP, IMHO, is close, but not quite the same as a Berg. However, they look nice and not out of place in a 356.

If you could get a Berg for $203 plus shipping and were OK with the "T" handle, I think it would be a no-brainer.....

Actually, Gordon, you have driven mine. Remember when we had to tweak that pin for the reverse lockout? You drove it around the block afterwards. Actually, I think the T-handle (Berg or CSP) looks fine in a flared Speedster, just not in a traditional one.

Kelly, I paid around $229 for the CSP. I would have bought the Berg (all the good stuff I'd heard), but didn't want a T-handle. I am very satisfied. The CSP is easy to put in - just two bolts, along with a bit of tweaking to get it positioned properly. Mine needed a slightly longer pin for the reverse lockout, but that could have been a quirk of the car. If you haven't already done it by Carlisle, you're welcome to take mine for a spin and try it out.

I had a 60% Gene Berg shifter in my IM. The shifts were extremely short and direct. I loved the way it shifted, but I could never warm up to its looks. About six months ago I sold the shifter through Samba.
When (if) I rebuild my IM I'll probably go with a CSP shifter. I would consider another Berg shifter (40% this time-60% is overkill), without the locking reverse option (looks seriously ugly), but I'd rather go with the round shift knob.
Ron

OK, guys, I appreciate the straight skinny here on both sides. I am going for ther "traditional" look in most other things on my car, so the CSP seems like the right thing to do. I'll get down and dirty about this after the Holidays. I am relieved to hear that the install is not a big deal. I'll renew the bushings and whatever too, if I can get a grip on what all that is, and where to buy. No big deal there either, I expect. The egg on a coat hanger has got to go.

PS: I wonder if I could fit a Porsche crest type shift knob to the CSP thing? Any opinions about that? Does the knob supplied thread on/off? I'd really love to have a shift knob like that. Actually, I have the crest insert that came out of the hood handle on my old '56 A Coupe. I think it is small enough to be inserted into a nice hardwood knob, using dremmel (?) or other tool to cut the inlay. I'm probably stretching the issue here a bit, but having that little piece from the old car in my new Speedster would be a cool thing to my mind. But, first I'll get the shifter, so I can find gears when I need them, then I'll work the embellishments.

Kelly,
There is a guy in Fla (I think) that does custom shift knobs. I'm pretty sure he offers a Porsche one. I got a white one with the VW shift pattern in red to fit my empi, it looks sweet. The knob comes with a bunch of threaded inserts to fit just about any shifter. I'll see if I can find the link for you. I think I found him on ebay or the Samba.

The CSP knob is just screwed on, but the hole is considerably larger than most shift knobs due to the reverse lock-out trigger. Carey Hines has a knob in ivory for the CSP that I'm looking at to go with the other ivory stuff I plan to add, but I may just paint the big round one I have. Anyway, you can get the specs on the hole from Carey and see what is out there. I'd be curious to see what you find.

Kelly,
Here's an ebay ad for a Porsche shift knob. It's the same guy I got mine from. It's a pretty nice accent piece. Now that I look at the one in the add I'm sorry I went with the shift pattern instead of the emblem.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__CUSTOM-PORSCHE-911-CARRERA-TARGA-914-944-356-SHIFT-KNOB_W0QQitemZ260339250455QQadiZ2865QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item260339250455&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A543%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Sweet!!! I wonder if they have it in ivory.

what is the diff. between the CSP and an EMPI "hurst" style shifter ?

i have the EMPI "hurst" style shifter, 50%reduction - and works as a charme - and is not that expensiv (~90$) in DK.

The CSP is beefier, and seems to have a more crisp, positive action that the EMPIs I've driven.

Lane,
I'm pretty sure he offers it in Ivory. Check out his site. I think there's a link on the ebay ad.

OK, OK, I accept the Slug-of-the-Year award, and confess to my slow motion activity. But today I went to cip1 and ordered the CSP 40% shifter and the linkage bits/bushings needed to upgrade the equipment. I also have Dr. Clock's instructions, and cip1 offers a video on how to do this, so I'm supposing I will be able to do it, by and by. The original eq't is breaking down, I am affraid, and was never satisfying even when "new", so it's getting tossed and this will be the deal. The guy at cip1 explained that there is an inspection plate at the front of the tunnel that would need to be removed so that the shift rod/tube could be removed and the bushing replaced. Hmmm, is this the correct concept for a Speedster (JPS)? Can you get the rod out to do the bushing replacement this way? I wonder.

And so there develops a question about the forward bushing, which could be replaced, and Gordon advises such a thing while you're already in there redoing the shifter proper. But now I understand this change out of a $3 part is a royal pain to get at. You have to extract the shift rod out the front of the car to reach the thing, or so I am told. Further, JPS says that these bushings do not go bad quickly, and it would take at least 40,000 mi to begin to think about it. So what is the real skinny here? So far, w/out any close inspection, I am assuming since my car was assembled new in '07, that this bushing was applied to the old shift rod as a new part before it went in. So I should forget about replacing it. But still, curiosity demands that I know what it would take to do so. Anybody have the details?

I didn't replace anything but the shifter itself.

Lane,

Good to know. You are my role model here, so your experinece on this one is very important. I have ordered all the bits needed to rebuild the whole system (the other stuff is nickle-dime vs. $270 for the shifter). The coupler dealie at the back, between the shift rod and the trans rod, I think is not a big deal to replace, and I have a new one of those in the box too. By rights, the one in there should be just fine, as it should have been new when car was built. But one never knows. I understand that they come w/ std rubber or made w/ urethane material; the idea is that urethane is stiffer i.e., better, according to some. Guy at cip1 says the regular rubber/neoprene ones are better because they are a little more pliant, and so forgiving wrt not having the gates set just exactly perfect. The little extra give in the rubber is supposed to help -- so he said. Downside: the stiffer urethane might give a crisper feel, assuming you get the shifter all set up just so. I got the regular rubber coupler, $9.00. Any thoughts?

"You are my role model here..."

BWAH HAH HAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!

That's a good one. Either you're pulling my leg or I really have you fooled. I know next to nothing compared to some of the brain-trust on this forum. That said, I have picked up a few things in the last three years. I think you'll love the CSP. As for the bushing, I don't know first hand, but everything I've seen here so far says stick with the OEM-style rubber ones.

Kelly, I'd just do the shifter for now. Your bushing and coupler should be fine IMHO. They are a pain in the butt to replace, particularly the coupler. You can see and inspect the front bushing after the shifter has been pulled and the coupler can be seen and checked by removing the access plate on the rear hump under the carpet. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

~WB

Run Kelly!!!! Run as far as you can and don't ever look back!!!!! Stay away from the coupler and the bushing!!!! Just put the pieces down and step back from the car slowly and no one will get hurt.


Ok, Ok, maybe a little dramatic, but I just did that job about a month or so ago and it is by far one of the biggest pain in the ass jobs I've done on that car. The info on those parts is correct: they're supposed to hold up for quite awhile so if you don't have to replace them for the CSP don't. If the shifter is a simple swap out then just swap it out. I seriously doubt you've driven it enough to wear it down yet.

I replaced both the rear coupler (with Urethane) and the tunnel bushing (just behind the shift stick) on a VS about a month ago. Total time was about an hour because I dropped the silly front bushing "C" clip down in the tunnel and couldn't find it for 15 minutes (the language in the garage was pretty good, too.)

Crisped the shifts right up.

Kelly: The urethane would have been OK, but a new rubber version is OK, too. No sweat.

Gordo,

Are there postings here or over on the other site that detail what needs to go on to get at these parts? So far, I hear in this thread that the job is either the biggest pain in the butt ever seen or it might take an hour or less if you don't drop anything. All indications are that the coupling and bushing in my car will be fine as they would have been new when the car was assembled in '07. I even asked JPS specifically if new was used, and he said "Of course!!" So I am not looking for trouble here, really, and hope it does not find me. I understand the mechanic's Zeroth Law: if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I also understand another law attributed to our good friend Murphey, and you know how that goes . . .

PS Lane: Thought you might enjoy that choice of words. But the truth is: You been there, done that, and so that puts you way up there ahead of me.

OK, the deal is done, and I have pictures to prove it.

A couple of notes, in case anybody cares: it is a good idea to thread the shifter through the carpet hole before you bolt the thing down, otherwise, you will have to take it out and put it in a second time. I discovered that one reason my orig shifter was acting up was because the bolts holding it to the tunnel were loose -- duh!!! Might have improved things considerably by just tightening those bolts. But I would not have the short throw and the very crisp gates that this puppy offers. Took for a test spin and did not crunch anything, but I was a bit awkward 'cause I still have progammed the old wet-matter CPU to throw that thing way out there to get third. Don't have to do that now. And the reverse lock-out butterfly handle thingy is so very cool. The civilized way to do it.

I did notice that the original bottom end has the ball that goes in the socket, of course, and also includes a guide pin that fits in a vertical slot cut in the socket. The new one does not have this pin feature, and I wonder why not? Seems like a good idea to me. But what do I know?? Seems to work fine w/ just the ball.

Kelly - Cool shifter! BTW - that's an odd place to install a cup-holder. You might have trouble keeping your beer from spilling. :-)

Sweet, ain't it? I got Carey to make a boot that matched my interior upholstery and that was opened so that it could fit around the existing boot. It has velcro to keep it closed (note seem at front in pic) and to hold it to the carpet. A good upholstery shop should be able to duplicate it so that the boot matches your gorgeous interior.

El G., aka MUSB,

Bwaaahaaaahaaaaa. You are very observant. Maybe this pic could have been titled "What's wrong w/ this picture?" Anyway, while fussing w/ this job, I had to move the carpet on the tunnel, of course. It was folded up along the seat edge w/ other pieces on the floor. Sorting through what went where, I had the occassion to be upside down looking under the seat, and could barely make out the end of some sort of connector that looked upon close inspection, exactly like a USB plug. WTF?? Is my car wired for PC connections?? Well, after some further contortions, I discovered two basic things: (1) the cable that is supposed to run the heater in my seat was not hooked up, having been mashed under the seat rail when the seat was installed, and so just left undone. Another Q/A issue w/ JPS. And the USB plug? Well, that was just the business end of one of several lost thumb drives, floating about under the seat along w/ an uncommon number of other misc detritus, like a chap-stick, some sun screen and various important papers, etc. -- and a cup holder. An unbelievable number of things, really. Moral of story: Speedster buckets dump all sorts of stuff out of your pockets, so look under there now and then to get them back.

PS Lane: Actually, I don;t mind the original boot being black and all. Tan leather might be a bit nicer, but the one there looks OK to me. Right now, I am just enjoying the ability to shift w/ precision -- that is, I WOULD be enjoying the new shifting, except for all this damn rain . . .

Lane we have converted another one into the CSP club.