Brad, most of us don't use drop spindles. Most use wide5 wheels, the Vintage 190s look great(better than steelies and much lighter). Usually 4.5" front and 5.5" rear. The adjustable beam can get you right where you want to be height-wise.
The sticky tire of today is Vredestein Sprint Classic, 175/70R15 and 185/70R15 in the back. If you go for more touring type tires, 185/65R15 will fit up front and either 195/60 or 205/60 out back. I have the latter sizes in Vred Sportrac5, which are now discontinued.
We use two spring packs, the front of the car weighs 700 pounds or so, about 800 in the back. It's about 1500 all-up, weight distribution is about 45/55 so my axle weights are approximate. It's a little lighter than a Beetle, but the front end of the Spyder weighs about the same as in a Beetle, with its rearward weight bias. I know some guys remove some leaves in one tube, but I like the full spring rate.
The beam is welded in on Spyders, and the frame rails go just inside the shock towers. Makes it difficult to use a stock Beetle anti-sway bar. I fabricated one using a 911 through-body 16mm bar and some 3/8" steel lever arms. I welded bushing mounts to the front of the beam, then used 10mm heims for sway bar links onto the shock bolts(extended).
I guess you could use an off-road quick steer bracket or make your own. Do you need more or less Ackerman with the 83" wheelbase vs. the Beetle of 94.5"? I find the steering a bit slow for autocross, but it's fine on the road(even TWISTY ones) or the track. The effort is medium and I'd keep it close to that. If you drive HARD(we call it hooning) all day you'll be tired. But it's a good tired...
There is a kit available from CSP that uses a VW Polo rack and mounts it to a beam. I had one but elected not to use it and instead have a stock(and properly adjusted) steering box.
As long as we're talking suspension and stuff, I chose a 2" narrowed beam(you'll need shortened tie-rods too). I have Airkewld brakes, which are billet alu hubs, drilled solid rotors and Wilwood 4-pot Dyna-Lite calipers and street/track pads. But, they are 3/4" or 7/8" wider per side than stock. You need that inch back for tire/fender clearance.
Out back the brakes are zero track increase, hubs and rotors the same construction from Airkewld, and calipers are single piston with mechanical e-brake cable. These brakes have NEVER faded on me, even going into Big Bend(Lime Rock) repeatedly with 500 pounds of driver and instructor on board.
Becks are great cars, but I have a Vintage. I like the frame design and the ability to corner weight the car easily, as it uses coilover shocks in the rear. I had thought of converting to zero-roll but I'm quite happy with the QA1 double adjustable shocks I have. I run 275 pound springs(Greg usually runs 250 I think on custom Bilsteins). I also like having no torsion bars in the back, makes engine R&R easier. To prevent the wheels from going into positive camber, I have a 2" wide nylon droop strap on each rear shock.
This is mine. Feel free to keep the questions coming.