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I am now about to start a classic body car for my wife based on all Beetle running gear. The CMC instructions call for cutting the front beam, and rotating downward 45 degrees.

How much does this lower the front end, and what is the recommended front and rear lowering for a classic stance?

Cutting the beam seems a bit crude to me and difficult to control the desired degree of drop. I see that beam adjusters and 2"lowered spindles are available - is this a better way to go.
1957 CMC(Speedster)
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I am now about to start a classic body car for my wife based on all Beetle running gear. The CMC instructions call for cutting the front beam, and rotating downward 45 degrees.

How much does this lower the front end, and what is the recommended front and rear lowering for a classic stance?

Cutting the beam seems a bit crude to me and difficult to control the desired degree of drop. I see that beam adjusters and 2"lowered spindles are available - is this a better way to go.
Know you are not in US so availability/shipping can be issue.

The CMC's twist is cheapest - labor only. But probably designed to lower it using original stock size tires and just compensate for less body weight and lower stance.

Shipping a new beam with installed adjusters to you would be big bucks - my guess is they weight 80#. Many of the adjusters only require you to cut an elongated slot in upper/lower portion of beam and weld on the adjuster. The adjusters aren't expensive and easily shipped. NOTE - In working on CRHemi's Speedster we found the new beam with adjusters in place didn't allow adjustment desired - but he had 16" Porsche Fuchs with like 205/60 (or 50) tires. It worked but is at very end of adjustment range. You could need lowered shocks too.

"Dropped" spindles give best ride - but no adjustment. If you are adding disk brakes to front and perhaps Porsche/custom drilled rotor then I'd get them supplied with the dropped spindle (can add an adjuster or two later if desired). Apparently there are cheap rewelded spindles and new forged ones. Never heard of the welds breaking but they sure could. You can buy just spindles or as part of disk brake upgrade kit.

Another alternative is cutting and removing some of the torsion spring bars in one or both of the beam packs. This would lower and give lighter springing -- but would be trial and error to get as desired.

Or of course various combinations of above.

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