Lol, You made me chuckle Phil, 
as you already know, Robert has a file on your roadster with the parts list used in your build
FYI, the angle is only an issue on VW and Audi engined cars due to engine height as per my first comment.
For Front suspension, depending on your budget and your specs, you can get a Torsion bar Type I, but most opt for a 914 setup now or a 911 front end as an option if you want vented brakes and better brakes over all.
The rear is Type I, or if your a purist early 944 trailing arms.
Sway bars front and rear are your option.
So your choices are as close to original, or more modern suspension.
My rear is Type 1 (944). But I really think my CV joints are Type 2 (Type 4). Robert has a file on my build??? What??? Why don't I have a file on the build. I miss a lot of info as a used car buyer. Maybe that's why I'm a little reluctant to call Henry.
Okay, well that would explain it. Sorry Phil I thought yours was a type 1 CV setup. The CV boots that you ordered should fit. Keep us posted on the results.
Phil talk to Robert at IM, give him your IM VIN number. He can tell you exactly what to get unless it was modified after it left IM. If you have a spec sheet that says T4 CV then you bought the right ones.
Damn it why didn't Henry put those CV joints on my car. He should have known there was a possibility that I would have come across and bought one of his used cars...
It has been great fun following this thread.
Really, Every car built has a build file at IM. Possibly this was in the paperwork that the previous owner might have mislaid somewhere and forgot to give it to you.
Changes and progress moves forward at IM continually and are implemented in newer builds as they go along, so you can Imagine trying to support a continual evolving car being, built without documenting what has been put in a specific car.
It would be near impossible to support cars in the wild without this documentation.
As a used car buyer I can understand your a bit reluctant to call. I was a bit myself with my first IM but you kind of have no choice at times unless you take the part of or take a picture and go hunting for part numbers.
My suggestion, give Henry a call or text on his cell or email Robert directly.
They ship and sell parts for their cars all the time and Henry can tell you the best to use tech as his product evolves.
Ray
Disclaimer: I am familiar with IM's, I know nothing, about the USA manufacturers in fact I have never seen a non IM vehicle
Henry responded in 5 minutes to my text. I'm an idiot. T4 CV joints are the same as T2 and the same as T181 (Thing). These dune buggy boots work on the Thing and will work on mine.
Lol, Phil, it always cost to learn...
Don't be too hard on yourself. we all do silly things.
I am a perfectionist and had to learn the hard way that ... Learning is all about experience and is really all about failing... even if they teach us concepts in school they are worthless compared to and unless matched with real life experience
Wait...are the Thing axles a direct drop-in for an IRS Type 1? Because that would be so great I doubt it's possible.
T1 is 94mm diameter while T2/T4/Thing are all100mm - so not direct replacement.
Just to reemphasize: the CV angle on all IM cars is greater than stock, because the engine/transaxle has been moved forward relative to stock VW.
However, the articulation is not excessive (at least to my way of thinking) in the air-cooled, T1/VW 4-speed configuration. I've replaced my CV boots once in 10 years, and the (Lobro) CV joint balls and halves looked great. Better silicone boots would be welcome, but I put off-road boots on and they are better than a standard EMPI beetle boot.
Phil is having his issue because of his somewhat unique drive-train. He's got Type 4/Thing CV joints because they are more robust and tolerate a more aggressive drive-train angle.
Marty sent me some pictures of his suby CV joints/boots. Much less axle angle. These cars are just meant to have boxster 4s.
Yes, I'm not worried about the strength of my CV joints at all. I think they are up to the task. I'm just concerned about them going bad if the boots crack.
I'm very upset with my mechanic. He is actually my neighbor. I told him I wanted to look at the Type 2 buggy boots and he ignored me and put the exact same boots back on. I really think I'm going to try to do this myself. But you know its tough to find someone willing to work on these cars. I don't want to burn any bridges but I'm pissed. Over $500 in labor charges down the drain.
You can do it Phil. Buy some high-quality CV grease, a gallon of kerosene to use as parts cleaner, a box of neoprene gloves, and the boots you'd like to use. New bolts and locking tabs would be nice, and you will need a special socket( but they sell them wherever you are getting the boot from).
Wear old clothes and do one side at a time. Don't mix the joints up (put the same balls back in the same CV joints, put the CV joints back where you got them, including the orientation). It's messy, but not all that hard. The balls will want to fall out until you get the hang of it.
Thanks Stan. I think I'll do it even before the new ones wear out.