Skip to main content

Ok guys need some help with this as my vw knowledge is getting rusty over all these years.

Right now I have a flickering dash light in my 03 vintage, it is the right light on the tach. According the search that I did on this site the right light is the electrical and the left is the oil light.

The light has been going off and on at random staying on for ~2-4 seconds sometimes at the most it lights up every 2 minutes or so. On longer roads where the rpm's stay the same for a long period of time the light never comes on, I took a 50 minute drive to test (like I had to justify that) and it looks like what I am comming off power and when I am turning or going over bumps I get the light.

So I got home and disconnected the negative wire to the alternator and turned the key to the on postion and get the left light out. Which in my mind says the electrical system is hooked to the left light which is counter what I have been told several times.

Right now I think that the right light is hooked up to the oil pressure sender and that I am getting low pressure light. or the like, so is there any way to test this other then waiting until a problem arises. I seem to recall when I built a 1600 that something similiar had happened because the clearences had been a little tight in the lower miles of the motor. Currently I have ~650 miles or so on this engine. Other options is that there is a loose connection somewhere that is hiting a power line somehow or another which is unlikely. I check in the gauge for a loos connection but no such luck
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Ok guys need some help with this as my vw knowledge is getting rusty over all these years.

Right now I have a flickering dash light in my 03 vintage, it is the right light on the tach. According the search that I did on this site the right light is the electrical and the left is the oil light.

The light has been going off and on at random staying on for ~2-4 seconds sometimes at the most it lights up every 2 minutes or so. On longer roads where the rpm's stay the same for a long period of time the light never comes on, I took a 50 minute drive to test (like I had to justify that) and it looks like what I am comming off power and when I am turning or going over bumps I get the light.

So I got home and disconnected the negative wire to the alternator and turned the key to the on postion and get the left light out. Which in my mind says the electrical system is hooked to the left light which is counter what I have been told several times.

Right now I think that the right light is hooked up to the oil pressure sender and that I am getting low pressure light. or the like, so is there any way to test this other then waiting until a problem arises. I seem to recall when I built a 1600 that something similiar had happened because the clearences had been a little tight in the lower miles of the motor. Currently I have ~650 miles or so on this engine. Other options is that there is a loose connection somewhere that is hiting a power line somehow or another which is unlikely. I check in the gauge for a loos connection but no such luck
I would but I can't get into the website to get the number for the shop.

But it's ok I got it fixed, pulled out my 30 year old "keeping you vw alive" and tracked down the wire's and darm it all I am 100% a moron for not checking the big stuff before tearing the car apart, but I did get a chance to check the car over better then I did when I bought it, and man they put together a steller car, everything has been thought out very well and everything was done the same or even better then I would have ever done.

All the wiring is top notch and I can't find anything bad to say about the car, except that the previous owner of my car was a moron and had no right to own the car, luckly I got it away from them before they did any damage.

But knowing what I know now I am going to have to really go though the car with a fine tooth comb.

On a side note I now got my squeak gone, this car will keep me busy tightening stuff up and I get to play webers again which is nice as I have been stuck with fuel injection on my last group of car's and am sick of looking at printout. Now looking to getting some more power out of the motor without opening it up, but might just splurge and have it professionally tuned at one of the locar shops on the dyno and thatway I fill not be tempted to tear it apart every weekemnd
Voltage regulator wires were a little loose, everything cleared up after that was patched up, also duoble checked all the connections so maybe it was something else was loose but that I think was the cause but it is all cleared up now.

Battery tested out ok so no damage done there I believe, but the light was on for such a small period of time relative the time I drove the car.

But I tried that first, wiring on voltage reg, then went on to the other things, so I assume that was the cause of the errors. It does look like my lights are reversed compared to what other people have stated but it is a hand built car, but I will have to double check everything anyway because I really am interested in this little car now.

Man this is different then just plugging in a scan reader like I have gotten used to doing. Also need to dig out the protocol for tuning the dual carbs and get a little slop out of the linkages and the car should be good to go. I am going to try to get some time at godspeeds dyno and see what the car puts out and due so thermal testing with oils before I relagate this car to daily driver status.

Also will report back with that info and wat she puts down at the track so I will have before and after tuning number's, and so I get a better idea of what I need power wise to make myself happy.

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×