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My 2143 cc TypeIV with 40 Dells got exactly 25 mpg average on the Carlisle 2,584 mile trip. We ran 75-80 all the way except for in-towmn at Carlisle. Best highway tankfull was 27.6 (musta been some road construction that slowed us down.)

Rich--your engine is a long way from being broken in so be patient--it'll improve with miles ---I'm thinking the Asheville trip will get you just about broken in and seeing great MPG.
Better math says I'm getting maybe 18 or so, but we all know something is not right yet. Learning how to drive it better is also helping with that power band issue, definitetly a launch at 1800rpm's. Looks like a slight oil leak at a fitting near fan shroud...better start making my list. Oh, ya, are you Beck guy's cars as twitchy or is this something else I'll be ironing out? Handling overly sensitive and wanders quite a bit. I'd like some feedback on that one, should have tried to get a few miles on your cars when I was at Carlisle for some comparison. Some discussion with Carey is in order. Brakes getting better, but have had to abort a few turns. It ain't my 911, I know that.
You need to get a good four-wheel alignment done. I had castor issues as well as alignment issues front and rear. It shouldn't be twitchy. Mine is sticky and well-balanced, but more like an original 356 than a 911. You have the short wheelbase and swing-axle rear, so your mantra should be "Slow in, fast out" as it says in the owner's manual.

You should look for whoever the local hotrodders recommend for alignment as the usual places won't know what to do with something that isn't in their computer.
Lane, my man did an alignment, but once again, maybe he just doesn't know everything. Waiting for everything to get right while driving it is much easier than waiting for it just to drive it. Mileage pretty bad right now. Today's two stops at the gas pump were 18 and 16 and the 16 was when I wasn't driving it as hard. Even 25 might make think real hard about a larger tank. There certainly isn't any room for anything else other than gas...so it might as well be gas. Yes, I am a fan of the slow in fast out modus oporandi.
I don't have a speedometer or an odometer, but I keep a log of sorts for mileage on road trips.
I think I get better mileage than most everybody here (except Stan) from the sound of things.
Carlisle is 100 miles or so from my house, and I used three-quarters of a tank to get an estimated 225 miles before dinner on Saturday. That would be about 28 mpg, if I did the math right, based on my 10-gallon cell.
Thursday to the show, all day Friday and well into Saturday -- cruises and so on, plus all the around town stuff while there. Seems to me that having good, balanced carbs and a little BDC (13 degrees) on timing has made a difference, along with good plugs and precision work on the engine when it was rebuilt to a 2424cc in 2008.
The same trip with the 2366cc configuration in 2007 got me an estimated 20 mpg.
The car is probably 400 pounds lighter than other Speedsters, so that probably accounts for some of the difference.

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I'm a bit shocked by all this. All this talk of engines less than 2.5L getting mileage in the teens means there is something very, very wrong. From a fuel consumption stand-point, the difference between a 1915 and a 2387 is going to miniscule, so there's no "I've got as big engine" thinking that should be happening. The biggest engines here are about half as big as a Chevy 350.

The type of carbs make a huge difference. I've had every commonly used carburetor in this hobby on one engine or another. I had IDFs on my first 1776, ICTs on the next, and heavily modified Kardons (purchased as a result of the "folklore and common knowledge" advice on this site) from AJ Sims on a 2110. I've had 2 sets of Dellortos (40s and 48s) on the last two engines. I'll probably never run anything else, unless it's EFI.

If you've got IDFs or Dellortos, there's no reason you can't get 20- 25 MPG- none. If you aren't- you're drowning the engine in a sea of gas. Don't look at your main jet numbers (they don't matter except at wide open throttle)- it's your idles, float-height, and synchronization that determine 95% of the drivability and fuel mileage. If you get this straightened out, it'll run much, much better.
I'm with Stan on this. These engines consistently run between 25 and 30 mpg and have for decades. I used to get 32-34 on trips with a bone-stock 1600 dp. Pearl has a 2,110 running an Engle 120 cam (not much different than a 125 from a mileage perspective) and she gets 26-27 mpg no matter what (and she's running slightly rich, too).

If you're running below 20 mpg, you're running too rich, washing down the cylinder walls (causing premature wear) and wasting power. Ignition timing has a lot to do with a happy engine, so make sure you're timed right, first, then use some of the jetting advice on here to get you going in the proper direction. Jetting is not a "black art", but it takes a little patience and experience to get properly jetted and then you're good forever.

Won't work on a Beck, Leon, as the front beam is welded in as as the forward chassis cross-member. Castor is adjusted by moving the eccentrics on the balljoints and/or by adjusting the rake of the entire car with the rear ride height adjusters. When I had my car delivered, Carey had raised the rear on my request, due to my fear of dragging the exhaust leaving the driveway. That was enough to change the castor by more than one degree, which made the car very twitchy. Just dropping the rear of the car less than an inch made a world of difference. Still, a good old-fashioned four-wheel alignment is worth the time and money.

One other item that really stumped me for a couple of years was some odd freeplay in the steering. I would turn in one direction, and there would be no effect for the first few degrees, followed by normal performance. When released, the steering wheel did not return all of the way to center, but remained pointing slightly in the direction of the most recent turn. If the next turn was in the same direction, there was no freeplay. If not, I experienced the looseness again, followed by the the steering wheel pointing slightly in the new direction. I pulled out the remnants of what little hair I have until Leon Chupp told me that he'd had the same problem. It turns out the the pinch bolt on the pitman arm-to-steering shaft joint must be waaaaaay tight, or there will be a tiny bit of slippage on the splines. I put a wrench on the bolt and slipped a piece of pipe over the wrench for extra leverage. I probably only turned the bolt 1 or 2 flats, but that solved the problem. I haven't had to touch it since.
Thanks for taking us all for a ride in your kneck of the woods,that was very cool!! The roads were in good shape/no potholes for being back roads,I am envious.
A very simple way to take some the guesswork out of your mileage issue would to hook up one of these units in your car,either permanently or you can make a little "rig" that would allow you to install the gauge when you are tuning/diagnosing.
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=+AEM+wideband+gauge&_sacat=See-All-Categories
Admittedly,I am a newcomer when it has to do with dialing in carbs,however I do have years of experience tuning FI,and using a wideband is a essential tool and will only help you in finding out where and when your air fuel ratio is off.
Personally I don't want a high tech gauge installed in a vintage look car,so I made a rig that allows me to install the gauge temporarily and plug it into a cigarette lighter receptacle.
Simply weld in the included 02 bung and you can plug it up when not not in use,many would recommend the merge collector on a header system for this bung.
You will be able to monitor how your car transitions and fine tune the "flat spots. There are even programmable ignition systems to take full advantage of your set up,however all of these tuning tools are only as good as the guy pushing the buttons/changing the jets.
Good luck,and enjoy the ride.
Aloha,Thomas


Sorry off topic,but I want to thank Mr. Lane Anderson for keeping me from also being the guy "mystified for a couple of years" since I too,am dealing with the "steeing wheel moving" phenomena!!!!
I KNOW the pinch bolt is REASONABLY tight,however I am going to try your tip and use a breaker bar,and pray it does the trick!!
I am so stoked you posted that Lane,since I have already swapped out a steering box that is probably still Ok,due to the "shifting wheel" problem. Luckily the boxes are only $110.00!!
I swear,if this works,then everyone..........DRINKS ARE ON ME!!!!
;)
Having just bought a 2010 Beck Speedster this weekend let me also "pile on" with my praise of Lane and his advice. I, and the previous owner,experienced the same excessive freeplay in the steering. The car was, in fact, dangerous to drive. The P.O. told me to just get used to it. Yesterday I went to a good alignment man and was told the exact same thing that Lane has just mentioned. Pinch bolt on the pitman was slipping and the rear end was too high. After tightening the pinch bolt it was like driving another car. Tracks straight and true. Lowering the rear is next. Also, the Beck manual that you wrote is exactly what every new Beck owner needs to figure out the car. Good job. Thanks
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