De-tune a 2332cc type 1

Boy, lots going on while I was away...

No amount of detuning or parts replacing will change the fact that it's a bigger displacement engine with waaay more torque than a 1600 (which is what Art said the owner was complaining about in the very first post). Stan, Danny, I think Gordon (and probably someone else) have already mentioned this. Detuning by using a milder cam, smaller venturis or even smaller carbs (to do this properly lesser flowing heads may be required as well) are only going to bring the powerband down lower and make the torque situation worse (as has been mentioned as well).

Trading it for something smaller (as people have already suggested) is one avenue, but Art, first I would try adjusting the throttle cable at the carbs so it only gets 1/2 or 2/3 throttle (as Ron and I think someone else alluded to) and see how it drives. If this works, a far cheaper fix, and when resale time comes some lucky bastard will get a very lightly used 2332. And if the owner ever feels the need for more power, it's already there... 

I told myself I'd never say this here, but- as usual, just my 2 1/2 cents (I'm Canadian, eh!). Al

isn't this why Canadians do not drive a 356 but rather a 356EHhhhh,

In my checkered opinion, NONE of the changes suggested to the 2332 will make it run any mellower and some will make it a lot worse in "normal driving".  

I am VERY surprised that an engine builder suggests simply "re-jetting" the carbs.  The jets alter the fuel/air ratio going to the carb mixture to make the ENTIRE engine run either richer or leaner.  What's he gonna do....Make it run leaner to "starve the power out of it"??  NO!  All that will do is cause dramatically elevated cylinder/piston/valve temperatures and premature failure of those components.  running smaller venturiis sounds good, but all that will do is accelerate the flow rate through the venturiis (those big jugs will still pull in a whole lot of air with each stroke) and cause a few other nasty things to happen in the carbs when the valves close.

Adjusting the throttles to only pull 1/2 open sounds nice, but inadvertently slam the gas pedal in first with the typical VW stump-puller first gear and that car's gonna LEAP off the line, slamming the driver back who'll then pull off the gas and the engine compression will halt it, pronto - that car will porpoise off the line.  Not a cool scene.  This could be improved very slightly if the linkage actuator arm to the throttle cable were lengthened (to provide less rotation of the hex bar) and the throttle actuator arms were shortened (to provide a shorter stroke) - together that will slow the action of the gas pedal to both open the carbs slower AND limit them to about 1/2 stroke, but even THAT is a massive band-aid.

As far as I'm concerned, if the 2332 guy likes how Art's car drives and Art would like the additional power of a 2332, the best solution I see would be for them both to simply swap engines.  There may be a relatively minor cash flow involved, but I bet both guys would end up happy.

Another good analysis from Gordon but other than reasons of reliability, I'd keep the engine you have. 

My approach would be to keep the engine as is and simply drive it gently.  That engine will get you up to speed more quickly than a 1600 so take off when the light turns green at the more sensible pace of a 1600--or even a 1915.

The big engine will go maybe 130 mph---so just go 70.  Am I missing something here---your problem with havinmg a 2332 in your car seems non existant to me.

I watched my car dynoed at Jake Raby's facility and it reached 140 MPH. (That's on a dyno --not on the road with the drag of the air resistance and I don't know what 140 translates to from the dyno to the road but it's still gotta be faster than I'd want to drive it!)  I drive it 75-ish on the interstste and a 1600 will go as fast.  And I don't rocket off the starting line although I could.

I'd never consider reducing the power of my engine---nice to have it in reserve but the way I use it the extra power is insurance.

The main thing I really get from my engine is reliabilty--in spades.  It started out at 2,000 ccs and is now 2,150 ccs which is almost stock so there is no additional stress to speak of. A Type I with 2332 ccs is anything but stock but driven sensibly can have a fairly long life.

You didn't mention reliability as your reason to swap engines but if you did, I'd understand that.

Good luck with whatever you do.  

Adjusting to get only part throttle is something to try; if it works then great,  and if he doesn't like like it then there's still the option of putting a smaller powerplant in. Gordon, I don't see your concern; if the cable should slip in the barrel nut then he'll have even less throttle, not more. This option doesn't cost anything and that's why I suggested it. If the guy still doesn't like it, go to plan B.

I Agree with you on all other points; messing with the engine itself won't  make the engine any more docile. The porpoising scenario you're describing will be present no matter what engine is installed and however the throttle is adjusted.

  And if the guy likes how Art's engine drives- Art, I hope you can do a re & re, because this could be an oppurtunity.....

To be honest, I wonder if the owner would be that comfortable with it regardless of power.  He may just not be suited to a Speedster.

I know what to do, get a training pedal, you know like a block, screw it to the bottom of the floor preventing the gas pedal from going all the way to the floor, and it will give him the right amount of acceleration, I would say fix it for a max of 3000 rpm, pedal to the metal, and this will solve his problem.. TOTAL cost of ,,, $2 at Orange, and one dip to LOWE's and you'll be an ACE hardware guy. Ray

Lane;

That might be true.  He did own a Super 90 for a couple of years.

Art

As mentioned before: all this is making my head hurt -- I cannot fathom any of it.

Just be a man, and drive the bloody car.

According to Art's first post, Lane, he already owns the Speedster.

My idea to adjust the throttle cable at the barrel nut connection to the linkage is still cheaper

The problem here is that a 1600 develops about 80 ft.lbs. of torque, which makes a <2,000 lb. car easy (although somewhat uninspiring) to drive. Remember, torque is what gets a car moving. The gentleman in question's 2332, on the other hand, develops any where from 120 to over 165 ft.lbs. (1 1/2 to 2 times the power of a 1600, depending on rpm and the exact cam, head, carb, exhaust and compression combo) and I'm guessing he's finding it hard to feather-foot the pedal without the thing taking off on him. The way the carb linkage is set up (very touchy just off idle) is probably not helping as well. Some longer arms off the throttle shafts might make the car easier to drive. Now there's an idea...

There's a video on Youtube of a woman getting in her boyfriend's/husbands big block Cobra, and just moving it in the parking lot she hits something (another car? planter? sorry, don't remember...). The thing just gets away from her. If you've never driven a truly high powered car it can be quite daunting.  

Al, I've seen that Cobra video. What a waste, you really have to be careful who you give your keys to.

Another thought here is what if the motor mount(s) are broken? That can REALLY F-up your day.

Throttle limiter at a cost of less than a buck.  My neighbor had a '41 Willys with a  740 HP blower motor....not street-able whatsoever until I reworked the throttle linkage for the sake of sanity....still was a eye popping ride~

Yeah, Danny, I was shocked! And good point- especially if the front trans mount is broken, doesn't matter what engine is in it...