Dead Alternators lead to....

The fan is connected to the alternator and rests on the alternator stand, which also contains the oil fill.

I'm wondering if something broke on the alternator stand or the strap that holds the alternator to the stand.

That probably wouldn't explain all, but might explain the variable alternator output and clanging noise.


> On Jul 13, 2015, at 3:14 PM, SpeedsterOwners.com <alerts@hoop.la> wrote:
>

Interesting - I haven't looked that closely yet, but I surely will do that (tonight when I get back to the car to yank the Alternator).  It's very possible some things could have shifted.

 

 

Fan belt loose?

Nothing worse than crossing the finish line on a flatbed! Been there, at least no one was hurt  

Find a GOOD Air-cooled VW mechanic in your area to help you out.  Water-cooled guys can only take their assumptions so far, and then they simply don't know.  A good Air cooled guy (or gal) will know, just from a few symptoms, what the heck is going on and can help you get it right the first time.

 

And as bad as it sounds, these engines are pretty simple......just different.

 

gn

 

Exactly!!  I find that because we (both myself and proper mechanics) are so used to newer, more sophisticated engines, we tend to forget the 'little things' that engines/vehicles these days have accounted for in their creation. 

 

Thank you all for your input, I'm going to try taking the alternator out later today and hopefully have it rebuilt.

Speaking of which, WHAT A GREAT TOPIC ON ALTERNATOR REMOVAL.  HUGE thanks to MusBJim for a terrific write-up.  Damn, I was reading the post and it was so perfect and helpful that I thought if I keep scrolling down, the post will actually come through the screen and undo the bloody bolts for me!!

 

Very much hoping for a smooth removal later on, esp since I only have skeleton travel tools with me.

 

I am, however, nervous about removing the alternator belt and putting it back on.  Of course, that's the first step in the process, but I do know that if I were to go all willy-nilly and start removing $hit without paying attn, upon re-installation things could be outta place and really mess things up.

 

Is it just a matter of making sure the pulley slot is at 12 0'clock (which would pull all other pulleys to their proper spots also, I'd imagine), dropping a screwdriver in the slot, and then loosening the nut?

I'd assume the belt and pulley would just slide off once the nut is removed, and when I re-install I just put the belt and pulley back and put the bolt back on.  Is that correct?

I'm not sure if there is a certain tension this belt should be under, but either ways I'd assume using the method I just described (if the method is correct, that is) will keep the same tension as before removal, and everything will be okay.

 

(I know - 'famous last words', eh?!! hahah :-|)

 

Especially since I don't have a tool to measure tension....!

If anyone has input, let me know!

 

 

@ Sir Lapalot

This will show you exactly how to remove and/or adjust your fan belt.

https://youtu.be/BslIfjBjY-Q

MAG.

NIFICENT.

 

I wonder if there's a youtube video to teach me how to search for things. (lol)

 

Thank you sir!!

In removing the fan belt, remember that there should be shims (real thin washers) between the nut and the pulley face (those are "spares"), and more shims between the pulley halves.  

 

Those between directly affect the tension on the fan belt by varying the distance between pulley halves and forcing the V-belt up (tighter) or down (looser) on the pulley when it's running.

 

It's really important that you count those between the nut and pulley, and count, again, those between the pulley halves.  Write down both numbers and make sure that you put the same number of shims back in each position when you put it all back together.

 

If you do, then the belt tension will be the same before and after messing with it.

 

So when you put it back together, put the nut on and crank it up a little more than finger tight (finger tight plus 1/2 turn with a wrench).  You should see a notch on the outside lip of the back pulley half, big enough to stick a screw driver into and thereby engage a rib in the alternator body to hold the pulley in place for removal and installation.

 

Once slightly tight, remove the screw driver and turn the pulley with a wrench on the nut a turn or so and the belt will settle.  Then, re-insert the screw driver and give the nut another half turn.  Now....turn the engine over by using the bolt on the end of the crankshaft, NOT the fan pulley nut.  (it should be a 30mm bolt head)  The fan should now turn as the engine is cranked.  Repeat the process until the nut no longer turns and/or you torque it to 40-47 foot pounds.  If you don't have a torque wrench, then do the best you can but I usually tighten it enough that you get real resistance with a 1/4 turn of the nut with a wrench.

 

Hope this helps.

Sir, you are over thinking this real easy process. Dig in and get her done.

Yeah, Bill's right - it's a pretty easy job to do.

Nice follow up Gordon thanks! Succinct and to the point.

 

It has been a while for me doing this as well so it was a good refresher. It has been too many decades since my last VW Bug and Bus adventures when I was a young lad doing a lot of my own work on these aircooled motors. No wonder the madness is so addicting, it's hard to go wrong with so many knowledgable and helpful folks on this site!

Thank you Gordon!  That explains exactly how the tension is adjusted much better (now that I've seen the video)!!

 

I would have paid attention to how many shims (/washers) came out anyway, but now I know one better - I know how to adjust it if needed!

 

After looking at it, I know it can be done.  I just want to make sure I don't make some small mistake that will blossom into a HUGE (aka $$$$$) mistake, which (after reading these comments) I might have made had I not known of them first!

 

Will let you know how it works out...!!! haha

I've adjusted my fan belt, adjusted my valves, added a bigger sump, installed an anti-sway bar, and done several other modifications after watching videos. It makes understanding what I've read easier.

It always makes me nervous to refer to the shims between the nut and pulley as "spares" as it could lead some people to believe they can be removed without consequence. There should be 10 shims used in total. Some number is used between the pulley halves to set the belt tension, and the remainder placed between the nut and pulley. If you have less than a full stack of shims total, the nut can bottom out on the shaft threads. You can torque it to spec but it won't hold the pulley tight and the pulley hub gets wallowed out.

Correct, and good call!  While I am aware that they shouldn't be discarded, you make a great point and I could've easily NOT been aware!

 

When I took them out, one of the washers was quite a bit thicker than the others - which I find mildly peculiar - but I plan to put them all back the same way they came out anyway, so hopefully it will all fall back into place