Dead Battery

Randy,

It's almost impossible to diagnose the situation you explain, since many of our replicas have been modified differently by owners with different skill levels.  That means that your wiring may be better than stock, or a real hazard.  Some generalities can be made:  it is not difficult to determine if a switch is in the on or off position.  Using a volt/ohm meter, determine continuity through the switch.  Switch should only show continuity in the ON position.

With all switches in OFF position, you need to determine any "parasitic battery loss".  That phrase means that, even with all switches off, current is flowing through at least one circuit.  There is an established procedure to find out which circuit(s) is/are the culprit.  The explanation is lengthy, but not especially complicated.  You can Google "parasitic battery loss" to get you tube videos and explanations.  It involves removing one fuse/breaker at a time while checking battery voltage at the ground battery post on the smallest available scale on your volt/ohm meter .

Not sure how handy you are, but there are some ways to determine the health of your electrical system: if you jump start your car, check battery voltage before the jump.  Then, with your volt/ohm meter on your batter posts (not terminals, the posts themselves), watch to see if voltage increases.  Your alternator should bring battery voltage up to 13+ volts.  If that occurs, your charging system is likely not the fault of the battery drain.  A bad diode in your alternator can be a cause of parasitic battery loss.

Don't panic.  There are commonalities in car electrical system faults, but it may take some time to diagnose them.  If you don't feel comfortable trying this yourself, find a good auto electrical shop nearby.  They should have no problems fixing it.  Please keep the group informed as you progress.  That's how we all learn.

Your second paragraph is probably where I can find the problem, whether it is the battery, a switch or the charging system.  I am not a stranger to this had an X50 ((^ twin turbo that sucked up all the energy on the block, that why I was thinking about the radio.  I will do the test you suggest and at minimum get an optima battery.  BTW this car is new two weeks ago from VS in HI Gardens.

 

Thanks for the response, Randy

You might have what is called a “sneak circuit” which happens when you lose a ground and the circuit finds ground another way.

Since it’s a new car and the key off load should be known, you may need to inspect all of your ground points.
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Sounds like fun!  Thanks will check that out as well.

Those switches aren't in the "copious" VS owners manual (10 pages)!  Post a picture of switches - maybe another recent VS owner can help?

You may just want to call VS to ask what the switch could be, if car was build/received new.

they used to deliver cars with multiple possible toggle switch features under the dash... 1) a kill switch ( attached to columb/ blinker relay braket, accessible with left hand - which disconnects alternator ground I believe),  2) for cars with fog lights, a fog light switch- installed under dash, under light pull switch.

also, 3) depending on the blinker switch assembly, there was a possible under dash switch- installed on the right hand side of the steering wheel-- high/low toggle switch for the high/low beams (ref attached sample picture).. typically this would be a little red button switch, but I have seen a few cars with the toggle switch for the high/low beams under there, as the push button switch was flimsy, failed regularly and was very small. ( it worked like the old school foot push toggle switches for the high/low beams... but to save time/labor hours, and save on wiring, kirks team installed up there...  

4) I have also seen a battery kill switch... ( different from the alternator kill switch installed on the steering column).

Could you have left the lights, or blinker in the on position?... that would draing your battery.... even with the key out of the ignition (as typically wired from VS... ask me how I learned that lesson).

Hope some of this helps... 

if/when you get around to changing your ignition switch to a nice new Bosch and installing headlight- high/low beam & starter relays, you may want to consider updating  the wiring so when the key is in the off possition or out all power is disconnected to headlights and blinkers.   

Cheers, 

Luis

 

u could get a battery  cut off switch, eliminates anything past the battery terminal..

The issue with the cut off switch is that anything that is programmed like your radio or even speedo and tach or clock lose their programming. It is a bummer to have to re-program all that stuff if you car sits for a few days.  So, simple to track the the voltage bleed and fix it.  Take your time, a digital voltmeter is really inexpensive.  I use an older analog meter to set points and such. I’m no electrical smarty guy, but I have learned a lot working on this car and old motorcycles. 

Happy New Year! 

The 3rd switch may be for an under the dash light.  You would probably not notice if the light was on when you turned off the ignition, especially if it was in a well lit area.

I'd bet money that the 3rd switch is the source of your problem and that it was just in the wrong position when you parked the car. 

You could wire the Kill switch  so that only the engine does not start  

Troy,

You are correct it is the courtesy light.  My bet is that when I stopped the car I had turned it on inadvertently and left it on while the car was sitting and it drained the battery.  I believe that solves the battery and switch mystery.  Thanks to everyone for the help.

The VS car with the 2110cc engine and Twin Webers is quite a car.  Took it for it's first long ride yesterday, it was excellent!  Nice job Kirk, Justin and the crew!  Kirk thanks again for the suggestion of Fjord Green.

Happy New Year!

Randy

Sometimes you just can't see the forest for the trees.  Glad I could help.

Lfepardo posted:

You may just want to call VS to ask what the switch could be, if car was build/received new.

they used to deliver cars with multiple possible toggle switch features under the dash... 1) a kill switch ( attached to columb/ blinker relay braket, accessible with left hand - which disconnects alternator ground I believe),  2) for cars with fog lights, a fog light switch- installed under dash, under light pull switch.

also, 3) depending on the blinker switch assembly, there was a possible under dash switch- installed on the right hand side of the steering wheel-- high/low toggle switch for the high/low beams (ref attached sample picture).. typically this would be a little red button switch, but I have seen a few cars with the toggle switch for the high/low beams under there, as the push button switch was flimsy, failed regularly and was very small. ( it worked like the old school foot push toggle switches for the high/low beams... but to save time/labor hours, and save on wiring, kirks team installed up there...  

4) I have also seen a battery kill switch... ( different from the alternator kill switch installed on the steering column).

Could you have left the lights, or blinker in the on position?... that would draing your battery.... even with the key out of the ignition (as typically wired from VS... ask me how I learned that lesson).

Hope some of this helps... 

if/when you get around to changing your ignition switch to a nice new Bosch and installing headlight- high/low beam & starter relays, you may want to consider updating  the wiring so when the key is in the off possition or out all power is disconnected to headlights and blinkers.   

Cheers, 

Luis

 

Thanks, I had no idea what the red button was, thought it might be a reset for the mileage.  Cannot believe it's for the brights.  Going to put the toggles for fog lights and courtesy light or possibly the brights on the dash.  Found two old beige tipped toggles in the UK that I received last week.

 

Thanks for the insight/info.

It's very easy to replace the small button highbeam/lowbeam switch, that some Vintage Speedsters have, with a turn signal stalk style switch.   It's an Empi part. 

@Safety Jim Buffalo NY., my battery cut-off switch has a bypass wire with a small fuse to prevent things programmed, like your radio or even speedo and tach or clock, losing their programming. The small fuse will blow if someone tries to start the car.

Ahhhh, very smart!  Thanks for the explanation.  I may suggest that to my friend with the MGA as he had to install the cut off switch to keep his battery alive.  He couldn't find the draining item and was losing his mind.  (
Who doen't with Lucas Electrics? Now he has to manually tune the retro radio every time.  

 Fortunately, I have been able to get the horn, lights, wipers and flashers all functioning. I just ordered LED headlights. And, I may order the tail / brake lights in the near future.  Once this stuff arrives, all I need is the temp to get up to freezing so I can warm my garage.  Ugh, I hate winter!