Thought I would start with something simple so I put the hinges on the deck lid and they hit the fan shroud. So do I have the wrong fan shroud, is the body sitting to low, or to far aft or is it just being stupid?
Replies sorted oldest to newest
IIRC, There is a left and a right hinge and if you have them reversed they will contact the fan shroud. It could be a different issue but that is one of them.
Wish is was that
That does look close. Mine just hit either side with same shroud. I flipped the hinges like Robert M said and that made the distance between the greater and they no longer hit. Mine are mounted at edge of the rain shield. I also put them on outside of hinges which gave another 1" distance between 2 hinges. I think only shroud that is lower might be a puma shroud.
Mine is mounted completely opposite from the build manual. (It says plastic mounting bracket - mine are steel).
Maybe use a shim or spacer??
Some have ground the hinge so that it has more clearance. It doesn't look great though plus is weaker.
Perhaps someone has them loose and can trace them on some 1/4" graph paper and send you a scan? Vintage parts has the front support and front bumper pieces.
All good suggestions above and I will add one more. A 36hp fan shroud will give you a little more clearance for the hinges.
If you're going to put a round 36hp shroud on the engine- consider the 1 with the doghouse (for the late model offset oil cooler) on the backside-
https://www.cip1.ca/ProductDet...ode=ACC%2DC10%2D5987
Note that in the product description it states it is the doghouse unit and also uses the wider (more cfm) late fan.
Hope this helps. Al
PS- and before you mount the hinges- drill some holes in them- it'll look bitch'n!
Many here (myself included) have the OEM shroud on the car. I actually switched mine from an aftermarket 36 hp style unit (which looks more vintage accurate) to the OEM shroud and cylinder tin as recommended by Gene Berg's literature. Thank God I never had a problem; maybe my hinges were filed down at VS when they built the car?
Don't use a line lock, it's not reliable. It's also cheesy and kit-car-shade-tree at its worst.
It's also not a legal parking brake in many states.
@DannyP posted:Don't use a line lock, it's not reliable. It's also cheesy and kit-car-shade-tree at its worst.
It's also not a legal parking brake in many states.
I agree with Danny- the mechanical brake system is there for a reason, and just because the lawmakers in some states didn't have the common sense (I want to say more but I'm biting my tongue here) to require a working emergency/parking brake (like pretty much everywhere else on this planet) doesn't mean you should just eliminate it. It's a safety thing.
A linelock is installed in the front brake system for doing burnouts.
Wow! If the chassis has been butchered like that you might want to consider using another one. By not shortening the pan the way it is supposed to it might bring on more than a few problems down the line.
Thank you, @ALB, for articulating the only correct use of the LineLock device.
Yes, @WILLIAM PORTER, building an unfinished kit is loads of fun! And the shortest route to the finish line is to avoid shortcuts. (Ask me how I know)
The massive steel sub-frame seems standard on FF/CMC since their start using the original IM tooling. Believe some kits were sold with the sub-frame not installed (rivetted and bonded) to the fiberglass body. The early build manual shows attaching the separate sub frame to the VW pan and then adding the body to it. You can buy just the fiberglass (and just the sub-frame) from Kit-Man or Rusty Tubs (if they still exist?). Without the sub-frame, I'd think you'd get twisting and cracking of the fiberglass body. I guess for a race/drag car it would be fine. I would think you'd need a jig to produce the sub-frame. I know of no measurements for the sub-frame. I guess you could do it.
I have a dune buggy with no sub-frame (most don't have one) - it has no doors to hang or even open nor much body overhang at either end.
The 2 bolts either side up front (outer ones) are the critical ones. To get wheel spacing side to side in rear - I had to slightly elongate the upper shock tower tabs. I don't recall but 2 but its been awhile (and many beers).
