Deck Lid Screen

www.gtwerk.com sells a screen that looks close.  Their aluminum work looks museum quality.  May be more than you're willing to spend, but it's a place to start.

Looks like a 6x9" (ok larger) speaker grill to me.

In my opinion, if you are going to eliminate the rain guard function by installing a screen, why not just cut out the entire rain guard so you have a better view of the engine?

I thought about just removing the entire deck lid but decided against it. 

IM's have much thinner ported area than do the Vintage Speedsters on the deck lid. My goal here is to get more cool, unrestricted air to the engine compartment. The picture above is a very clean looking alternative.

Does having this grill put in have a real added value/function or would it create a problem greater than it's contribution?

What I am trying to find out here is if anyone knows where to purchase this. I have not been able to find one. If I do it will be installed. Then I will let all of you know if it made a difference or not. I will be the test pilot for you!

I wonder if JPS would be able to help? I doubt it's a 'factory option' but it might be worth a call.

Ted

How about 8x16" aluminum soffit vent from Lowes for $1.63?

You can't find one most likely because it's custom made...

You can order the ss mesh and easily make one.

This one from GTwerks

Any one getting the pic from Bill?

Came thru for me -

That is just a speaker grill cover a simple google search with the size, shape and finish you want is easy enough to find.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd...+speaker+grill+cover

This is the only thing I see described as a deck lid screen on the GTwerk site:

Not as nice as the model Wolfgang has.

Hey Rusty,

I know John used to sell them at JPS. Not cheap. I wanted more airflow but still keep it somewhat water resistant so I modified mine by installing two rows of louvers under the grill - just like the C coupes. I believe there's photos in my file. If you're really interested I have several photos of the process I can send to you.

I wish they posted or stated the overall size.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1...3?lpid=82&chn=ps

I also had the thought of using floor register vents that way I can somewhat control the amount of air and direction.

Grab a pasta strainer and get creative~

I will probably end up installing one or 2 push pull fans in mine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Voti...%26sd%3D111441710930

I could also install/connect a thermostat if I needed.
It's just another thought.

I'd love to see what you've done as well, Terry...

Brilliant Terry!

Jeffrey, I installed one of those right under the decklid opening. I wired it to a reverse polarity switch. I experimented with pulling air in, pushing it out, while stationary or moving. End result? No difference. I've run 3" ducting from the front of the car, through a bilge pump and up through the firewall hole in front of the fan; no difference. I fabricated a really neat, basic hood prop to give me 3" of open space at the rear of the deck lid; no difference. The two things that have made a difference to my temps are changing the oil viscosity from 20-50 to 10-40 and running with luggage on my rack. Both of these reduced operating temps by 10 degrees, ambient temps in the 80s.

Terry, do you think that the luggage acted as a scoop?

"If man could learn from man there would be giants riding upon the shoulders of other giants."

Okay Terry I won't put the screen in. I have already changed my oil to Amsoil Z-Rod 10W-30. Since I refuse to put a luggage rack on my car I will have to focus on the miniature air-conditioning unit that I am having made that runs on an inverter to cool the inside of the engine compartment. Yes people just when you thought there were no more options left...

I am not going to use a speaker grill cover! The old 50's carreras had the screen that's posted in my first post. It is very clean but it does allow water directly onto your alternator.

- The spaghetti strainer might look kind of cool in a unique sort of rat rod way.

- Ted I have a call in to John at JPS. I'll see if he sells them.

- I like the GTWerks unit. I'm trying to visualize how to incorporate it into the deck lid and have it look seamless.

The GTWerks screen looks correct for a Carrera GT:

http://forum.porsche356registr...098f191517f3d2#p4160

But that style hood also had cold air boxes under the louvers to feed the carbs.

Rusty...Look at the Mc Master-Carr catalog on line. I think I saw some stainless steel screen/strainers in there.....Bruce

Yeah, Bill. I do, but Carl has a scientific explanation for it.

I'd  run with the luggage on if it didn't block the rear view (and look stupid on Penny). The gas mileage suffers as well.

I did see some heat relief with the added louvers, so there's that...

great topic, I'm very interested in your findings, Rusty!

Only got to drive the Speedster twice before the weather got cold so I don't have THAT much experience, but the running temps when I DID drive it were cause for concern (for me, anyway) so I'm hoping to have some solutions in place by May.

That grille is beautiful, but I'd have to concoct something to slap in place to keep water out in case I get caught in the rain.  Terry's looks like a more practical solution for my region...but [given the direction of airflow over the car while in motion] I'd think that it would be more effective with the louvers spun around, no?  I mean, with the louver-openings toward the front of the car to 'catch' and direct some airflow down?

Just put a scoop on the stock grille.

There was a black and silver turbo widebody that had one and it looked good. "BAD TUB" I think.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com...badtub1230327332.jpg

The luggage probably acts like an airfoil / wing / sail.  The air moves faster over the top , and slower under the luggage.  This creates lift, pulling air out of the engine compartment. 

We're not the only car guys that struggle with excessive engine heat.  Just Google "lowering underhood temps" or a similar search term.  I think (always a danger, I know) that the engineers of the day knew their stuff, but the engine compartments were designed for stock HP.  With today's engines, including crate engines for the V-8 guys, it's not hard to have an engine with 2-3 times the HP the engine bay was designed for.  Auto engineers say that 1/3 of the available HP goes to actual work, 1/3 to cooling, and 1/3 out the exhaust pipe.  That means lots more heat in the engine bay, and resultant heat soak.  The result is that CFM data for 60 HP is not effective when you have 140 HP or even higher.

Front-engine V-8's have tried scoops, louvers, hood stand-offs, etc, just like we try.  Air movement is complicated, with the law of unintended consequences always rearing its head.  On this issue, we are the engineers, like it or not, prepared or not.

My 2110 hangs at 190-200, so I'm happy...