Just curious, im building a cmc and the decklid supports are plastic, my other cmc car they are metal, did they change through the years, i can already see the plastic ones arent going to hold up, very hard and brittle, these are the ones that bolt to the firewall,
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Plastic brackets? You sure you don't have a Street Beasts kit? ( tunnel open under body_) Easy to bend up from scrap sheet metal, or go to a building supply and pick out a rafter / joist bracket and trim to fit.
That's weird - mine is an '88 kit and uses a steel piece. I checked the build manual which was posted here and it does say that it is plastic!
Maybe I have a rare item here, lol, going to do as Alan says fab up some out of metal.
I had off white plastic ones come in various projects but mostly the 22 ga steel. I just checked "stock" I only have one used bracket...but again, easy to make up.
Take a pic of the driver's side kick panel from inside the car .
Alan, do you guys spray the guts of the FGlass body with a rubberized black to finish off the hidden areas or back side so to speak.
It's not a Street Beasts and I've seen that sectioned inboard rocker on some FiberFab speedsters. The elongates "U" fiberglass piece mounts on top of the rear 2 x 2 and that gets a foam Bus engine seal that rests against the engine tin. You'll have to fabricate up the small 2.5" x 12" pieces that mount along the side of the engine next to the heads. ( also uses the foam bus seal) The other FG piece mounts under the rear 2 x 2 to deflect the exhaust heat .
IaM-Ray posted:Alan, do you guys spray the guts of the FGlass body with a rubberized black to finish off the hidden areas or back side so to speak ….I paint exposed metal etc with semi gloss black paint
While the engine lid is off drill some holes in those brackets (and maybe even polish them up)- it'll look cooler...
Good idea, ive seen that done on some of these cars.
I have an early 1993 CMC and my engine cover brackets are metal, too.
Wonder if they had a bunch of complaints on the plastic ones.
I, too, use back semi-gloss (Rustoleum or Krylon) just about everywhere that isn't trimmed.
The exhaust pipes (since they show below the valence) get a coat of semi-gloss high temp black each Spring. It's difficult to wire brush the exhaust pipes so I use a sanding sheet made for drywall - it looks like a micro waffle with squares. Wrap it around the pipe, give it a few pulls back and forth and move on - works great.
Does anyone have a good quality paint that adhere's well to PVC? I want to paint the white PVC heater outlets on my car to sort-of match the carpet color. (Can you tell I'm running out of things to do????)
Gordon Nichols posted:
Does anyone have a good quality paint that adhere's well to PVC? I want to paint the white PVC heater outlets on my car to sort-of match the carpet color. (Can you tell I'm running out of things to do????)
Talk to someone in a paint store and ask for a primer for plastic/glossy surfaces (one paint company here calls it (Plastic primer), another 'Super Prime"). 1 coat- don't worry if it doesn't cover well, as that's not it's purpose- it's a bonding coat. Now you should be able to put whatever on top.
SEM makes all kinds of automotive grade prebonding primers as well as plastic paints Gordon.
I've had good luck with Krylon. They have a special line that is made for plastic, available in any hardware store or home centers.
Thanks for the tips. Found the Krylon plastic paint at my local “Ace” when I went just now for bird seed and lump charcoal (ran out in my Green Egg supply from grilling, lately).
Lots of people working there and I was the only customer there. WTF?
I was asked “Didn’t you get the email? We’re online order and curb pickup only!” But since I was wearing a mask and gloves they let me scoot around to get my stuff and take off after buying the stuff from my phone.
They also told me that business is BOOMING! They had to add four more people just to keep up with the online orders. “Everyone is renovating while stuck at home and they all need something” I was told.
Crazy times we’re livin in.....
Welcome to the “New Normal”
My CMC from 1983 has the plastic brackets. I put in threaded metal inserts where the pivot bolts go and a brake line fitting for the hold up pin. I haven't had a problem yet.
Gordon, you'll find that paint lays down really nice. Have fun.
I painted my former home's forest green shutters with Krylon burgundy, two coats w/o primer did the trick. I cleaned them with soap n water then when dry wiped lacquer thinner over them before painting .
On my CMC the rear deck hinge Rt. side is cracked. So the engine cover striker misses the latch mechanism, as the alignment is off, wobbles. It is made of plastic and I imagine that someone could fabricate a new one. I am thinking about replacing both with metal. Has anyone dealt with this issue.
My late '88 manf CMC with the bent steel. If I were to make some I'd buy a small piece of aluminum from Lowes and bend the bracket out of that vs steel. It's easier to work with and could be polished. Might have to heat with a propane torch to get nice 90 degree angle. Not sure gage of aluminum needed- maybe like brown cardboard.
It's just angle. Buy it that way. Bending aluminum at home is almost a sure way to make sure it cracks.
To echo what Danny said, I recently tried to bend a piece of aluminum about 3/32" thick and it cracked.
I get aluminum pieces from Alro. Maybe there is one near you.
In reading your replies it seems the best approach, for me, is to buy some angled steel pieces and fabricate ( cut to match the plastic. thanks for the ideas. I am still trying to make my replicaca better. Thanks for the tips and making me think.
You still may want to consider aluminum angle instead of steel. Thicker aluminum instead of thinner steel may work better.
