Deep sump type 1 or 4 and clutch tube

Not sure who's running that setup but I believe it needs a pulley to work.

What chassis are you using? I don't think I've seen that motor mount setup before.

Pretty sure that's an older Beck, they used those style mounts for a few years.

I don't know what to tell you about the clutch, all the cars I've ever worked on had hydraulic master/slave systems.

I would email Carey or Kevin Hines at Beck if it were me.

Thanks guys. Mine is a second gen. Carey gave me some options but not sure they will work for my application. Hopefully someone has dealt with this specifically.

thanks

Jeff

If you are stuck on using the clutch tube, I would remove the cable. Then use some torch heat to bend the tube so it clears the sump, but still points in the correct direction.

You'll have to paint the tube again, and certainly re-grease the inside, but that should get you fixed up.

When I ran a thinline sump, the sump was even or maybe slightly below the frame crossmember. But that was an earlier Vintage 550.

I look for your email but didn't find it, so I may be repeating myself, but I know we did chat about it.  IIRC depth is not your issue, width is.

My suggestions and maybe it'll spark ideas from others:

1) Cut the tack weld where it fastens to the bell housing crossmember and gently reshape the tube to clear the sump, as smooth and gradually as possible and then resecure it in the same manor.  Watch for burn through in the new tack weld as it will cause a burr inside that will slowly eat through your clutch cable.

2) Cut the tube short and change the later part of it to a early 911 Bowden tube using it to bypass the sump, you'll just have to secure the cut tube somehow as well as have a solid attachment point for the other end of the bowden tube.

3) possibly change sumps?  We used CB thin line sump exclusively over the years, and although its been over 10 years since I've done a cable clutch I don't recall any major surgery being required with the CB thin line sump.

4) hydraulic

@edsnova we did away with the 914 clutch wheel in the late 80s and made our own bell crank.

Thanks Carey. Removing the weld on the cross member unfortunately won’t help. The clearance issue is the tube closer to the firewall. Is the Bowden tube flexible?

thanks Jeff

Gotcha.  Yes the bowden tube is flexible steel winding, rubber covered, but I don't think that even the longest one will be long enough to start at the firewall and get where you need...  Is bending down an option for you?

Also, have you been able to fit/measure your motor at all?  With the crossmember sitting even with the martini surface of the bell housing and motor, your sump cannot extend beyond the motor boards the trans at all, it'll hit the crossmember.  just  trying to prevent modifications for something that may not work at all...

Should clear the crossmember. I don’t think you could beat it down enough to clear. The tube was very close to the original set up without the sump. Didn’t think about this when the guy was building the engine.