My plugs foul at idle. Currently 60s. Thinking trying 55s and 50s. ANyone have any. CB performance will only process on lone orders over $50.
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My plugs foul at idle. Currently 60s. Thinking trying 55s and 50s. ANyone have any. CB performance will only process on lone orders over $50.
I have found a source withoiut a mimimum order however at $6.50 a jet I would like to buy the CORRECT size. I am running 60s which foul the plugs in a short time to BLACK . A friend suggested 55s. Any thoughts. The carbs were jetted for a 2180 but the new motor is a 1776.
I need to rejet my Dells also, who's your source?
Have you thought about a fuel/air meter?
Have you thought about a fuel/air meter?
My builder advised me that my 1776 shoiuld have 180 emulsifier with 140 Jet.
Idle jet no smaller than 55.
THey are really cheap at CBPerformance $2.50 each as I recall
Contact
Dominic@cbperformance.com
I need to add some stuff to my shopping cart to work up to $20! I can always use an oil or gas filter or fuzzy dice
What motor do you have.
Perhaps you want my 60 idle jets or 130 main jets or both.
Idle jet no smaller than 55.
THey are really cheap at CBPerformance $2.50 each as I recall
Contact
Dominic@cbperformance.com
I need to add some stuff to my shopping cart to work up to $20! I can always use an oil or gas filter or fuzzy dice
What motor do you have.
Perhaps you want my 60 idle jets or 130 main jets or both.
Fred--Fuel/air meter?? Like a synchro or is this a built in device?
Fuel/air meter utilizes an O2 sensor in the exhaust and can indicate whether the motor is running rich or lean, CB has them.
Sure, I'll take your extras if your finished with them- I am entirely too rich at this time and not sure what adjustments I need yet.
Sure, I'll take your extras if your finished with them- I am entirely too rich at this time and not sure what adjustments I need yet.
Fred:
I bought a book on Dells to go with my Weber manual and it says it is a good idea to have an assortment of jets as well as reamers if a full size up or down will not do the trick.
What size engine do you have.
Do you know how to test for which get is the problem?
I bought a book on Dells to go with my Weber manual and it says it is a good idea to have an assortment of jets as well as reamers if a full size up or down will not do the trick.
What size engine do you have.
Do you know how to test for which get is the problem?
Ralph wrote: " My builder advised me that my 1776 should have 180 emulsifier with 140 main Jet. Idle jet no smaller than 55."
Ralph, that's sounds pretty close for a 1776, although you've not specified what size the carbs (or the venturii's) are, so it's hard to guess.
Just as an example, My 2,110 has 40mm Dells, and I'm running 180 emulsifier jets (99% of all Dells run this size emulsifier), 161.29 Mains and 65 idle jets. This puts my air/fuel mix in the range of 13 - 15.75, depending on acceleration/deceleration and sits around 14.5 or so a lot (all engines swing around a bit on air/fuel mix). I would suspect that 140 mains and 50 - 55 idles would work pretty well for you, but the only way to REALLY tell would be to install an air/fuel mixture gauge, which requires putting an O2 sensor into the collector of your exhaust system, as close as possible to where all the exhaust pipes come together, so you'll get a good reading of what's going on in there. Then you'll need a variety of jets, say, 50 - 60 idles and 130 - 150 mains, all in regular steps, and then start with the idle circuit to get THAT running right (close to 14.7) because everything else is based on a correct idle mix. THEN start fiddling with the mains to get them tuned in.
Since you'll need at least 4 - 6 sets of jets, you should hit the minimum shopping cart cost ;>) or you can add some air cleaner filter gaskets (to keep the dirt out of the idle jets) or a K&N filter cleaner kit (always handy if you're running K&N elements).
You can take the cheaper way out and have someone look at the plugs for color/deposits/etc., but that type of analysis is not for a novice, as you have to have the experience of seeing lots of different plugs with differing heat ranges and air/fuel mixtures to know what you're looking at (even if you have a plug crib sheet in color), AND know where your main jets kick in so you can keep the revs down to see just what the idles are doing, then keep the revs UP to see what the Mains are doing. The air/fuel mixture meter takes all the guesswork out of the equation. CB sells a pretty good one for about $125 or so, which would be fine for what you're doing and should help you "dial in" all your jets in a single afternoon.
BTW: A set of tapered jet reamers (which will get used about once) is usually relatively expensive. A cheaper alternative might be to go to a local welding supply shop and get a set of acetelyne Torch tip drills. They usually go from .0225 (57.15) to .0635 (161.29). You'll have to do some math to convert from thousandths to milimeters (multiply thou's by 2540) but that's easy. Also, they're not tapered, but for street applications you'll never notice the difference. Of course, if you're trying to get your shopping cart up to the min number, that's a good way to go.
Gordon
The "Ornery Old Coot from Rhode Island"
Ralph, that's sounds pretty close for a 1776, although you've not specified what size the carbs (or the venturii's) are, so it's hard to guess.
Just as an example, My 2,110 has 40mm Dells, and I'm running 180 emulsifier jets (99% of all Dells run this size emulsifier), 161.29 Mains and 65 idle jets. This puts my air/fuel mix in the range of 13 - 15.75, depending on acceleration/deceleration and sits around 14.5 or so a lot (all engines swing around a bit on air/fuel mix). I would suspect that 140 mains and 50 - 55 idles would work pretty well for you, but the only way to REALLY tell would be to install an air/fuel mixture gauge, which requires putting an O2 sensor into the collector of your exhaust system, as close as possible to where all the exhaust pipes come together, so you'll get a good reading of what's going on in there. Then you'll need a variety of jets, say, 50 - 60 idles and 130 - 150 mains, all in regular steps, and then start with the idle circuit to get THAT running right (close to 14.7) because everything else is based on a correct idle mix. THEN start fiddling with the mains to get them tuned in.
Since you'll need at least 4 - 6 sets of jets, you should hit the minimum shopping cart cost ;>) or you can add some air cleaner filter gaskets (to keep the dirt out of the idle jets) or a K&N filter cleaner kit (always handy if you're running K&N elements).
You can take the cheaper way out and have someone look at the plugs for color/deposits/etc., but that type of analysis is not for a novice, as you have to have the experience of seeing lots of different plugs with differing heat ranges and air/fuel mixtures to know what you're looking at (even if you have a plug crib sheet in color), AND know where your main jets kick in so you can keep the revs down to see just what the idles are doing, then keep the revs UP to see what the Mains are doing. The air/fuel mixture meter takes all the guesswork out of the equation. CB sells a pretty good one for about $125 or so, which would be fine for what you're doing and should help you "dial in" all your jets in a single afternoon.
BTW: A set of tapered jet reamers (which will get used about once) is usually relatively expensive. A cheaper alternative might be to go to a local welding supply shop and get a set of acetelyne Torch tip drills. They usually go from .0225 (57.15) to .0635 (161.29). You'll have to do some math to convert from thousandths to milimeters (multiply thou's by 2540) but that's easy. Also, they're not tapered, but for street applications you'll never notice the difference. Of course, if you're trying to get your shopping cart up to the min number, that's a good way to go.
Gordon
The "Ornery Old Coot from Rhode Island"
Gordon, I don't know anything about Dells, but a 65 idle jet sounds a bit big, yet your car seems to be running kind of lean.
I read somewhere, your A/F should be ~ 13.5:1 for light throttle, and 12.5-13:1 for 1/2-Full Throttle.
What brand/model of A/F meter were you using?
I read somewhere, your A/F should be ~ 13.5:1 for light throttle, and 12.5-13:1 for 1/2-Full Throttle.
What brand/model of A/F meter were you using?
David wrote: " read somewhere, your A/F should be ~ 13.5:1 for light throttle, and 12.5-13:1 for 1/2-Full Throttle."
Yup, that looks close. When I open the throttle, it goes initially lean (15.5 - 16) then quickly swings rich to around 13 and then slowly climbs into the 14's. Letting it off goes rich (of course). If I only give it a little throttle, it'll dip into the lower 13's and then come back up into the low - mid 14's again. 'Course, this is all guesstimates, as you're supposed to actually be watching the road whilst all this is happening, and my gauge face is under the dash to my left ;>)
My air/fuel gauge is the CB Performance special, with a heated O2 sensor. Easy to install and seems to work well.
gn
Yup, that looks close. When I open the throttle, it goes initially lean (15.5 - 16) then quickly swings rich to around 13 and then slowly climbs into the 14's. Letting it off goes rich (of course). If I only give it a little throttle, it'll dip into the lower 13's and then come back up into the low - mid 14's again. 'Course, this is all guesstimates, as you're supposed to actually be watching the road whilst all this is happening, and my gauge face is under the dash to my left ;>)
My air/fuel gauge is the CB Performance special, with a heated O2 sensor. Easy to install and seems to work well.
gn
Ralph,
I have a 2270 RAT type IV in my 914. I started out with some old Italian webers (44s) that I had gotten pretty close but found the 45 Dellortos for a good price. Although the webers were "OK" I have always thought that the Dells were somewhat smoother from a driveability standpoint and I've always heard that they had better highend performance.
I bought a single wire Air/Fuel meter complete from CB for $89 plus shipping. The idea is to achieve and maintain the ideal ratio of 14.7:1 at idle and at cruising speeds. With carburated motors "close enough" is usually the best you can hope for, injected motors do it better. This is why injected motors have oxygen sensors.
You can expect the ratio should richen under acceleration (approach 12:1)and top speed and should lean out when the throttles close.
Stock ACVW motors were almost always set up to run a little rich, keeps the heads cooler. Too rich can affect performance, too lean reduces engine life. This is how tuners work their majics.
I have a 2270 RAT type IV in my 914. I started out with some old Italian webers (44s) that I had gotten pretty close but found the 45 Dellortos for a good price. Although the webers were "OK" I have always thought that the Dells were somewhat smoother from a driveability standpoint and I've always heard that they had better highend performance.
I bought a single wire Air/Fuel meter complete from CB for $89 plus shipping. The idea is to achieve and maintain the ideal ratio of 14.7:1 at idle and at cruising speeds. With carburated motors "close enough" is usually the best you can hope for, injected motors do it better. This is why injected motors have oxygen sensors.
You can expect the ratio should richen under acceleration (approach 12:1)and top speed and should lean out when the throttles close.
Stock ACVW motors were almost always set up to run a little rich, keeps the heads cooler. Too rich can affect performance, too lean reduces engine life. This is how tuners work their majics.
Here's some good info on A/F ratios from Aircooled.net
aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=LGU0016&cartid=0614200529761386
aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=LGU0016&cartid=0614200529761386
GOrdon et al:
My Dells are 40s. I checked my plugs after turning off the ignition at speed on the freeway. Plugs had the look that charcoal has when one is ready to toss a shrimp on the barbee! wondered why the engine was running hot. Main Jet must be TOO SMALL. Luckily I had not run the car too long with the small mains.
I am now awaiting my order of smaller idle jets and I think you guys are right on. An A/F meter is probably a good investment.
Thanks for the link info as well.
BTW, there was a pretty lo milies Subie motor fs for $250 I toiught I should scoop up but I guess at some level I am still a purist as pure as anyone can be driving a replica.
My Dells are 40s. I checked my plugs after turning off the ignition at speed on the freeway. Plugs had the look that charcoal has when one is ready to toss a shrimp on the barbee! wondered why the engine was running hot. Main Jet must be TOO SMALL. Luckily I had not run the car too long with the small mains.
I am now awaiting my order of smaller idle jets and I think you guys are right on. An A/F meter is probably a good investment.
Thanks for the link info as well.
BTW, there was a pretty lo milies Subie motor fs for $250 I toiught I should scoop up but I guess at some level I am still a purist as pure as anyone can be driving a replica.
Gordon:
Nother thing. My carbs were set up for when the car had a 2180, but clearly my builder, who I requested to tune the entire motor was not motivated to dial in the carbs. SO my carbs and yoiurs are aboiut the same and our engines were similar till I stepped down.
Nother thing. My carbs were set up for when the car had a 2180, but clearly my builder, who I requested to tune the entire motor was not motivated to dial in the carbs. SO my carbs and yoiurs are aboiut the same and our engines were similar till I stepped down.
I tried a search for air/fuel gauge and came up with nothing on CBformance.
Can anyone send me a link?
Can anyone send me a link?
www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=598
Yup - that's what I've got.
BTW: Made a run to Boston yesterday and actually sat there and watched what it was doing at various turnpike speeds. My main Jets start to flow around 3300 rpm (you can actually see the change) and it drops from 14.5-ish to about 13...zap! That was about 70 mph-ish. As I increased up to about 4000 rpm (at a [mumbly} mph) not only was I now passing everything, but the mix had richened to about 12.5 to 12.25 - right about where I want it to keep things running cooler.
Just FYI....and I was following a REAL 1955 356 cabriolet (Super 90 engine) with a driver who "usually travels 75 - 85 on the Highway!!!!!!!" Sweet!
gn
BTW: Made a run to Boston yesterday and actually sat there and watched what it was doing at various turnpike speeds. My main Jets start to flow around 3300 rpm (you can actually see the change) and it drops from 14.5-ish to about 13...zap! That was about 70 mph-ish. As I increased up to about 4000 rpm (at a [mumbly} mph) not only was I now passing everything, but the mix had richened to about 12.5 to 12.25 - right about where I want it to keep things running cooler.
Just FYI....and I was following a REAL 1955 356 cabriolet (Super 90 engine) with a driver who "usually travels 75 - 85 on the Highway!!!!!!!" Sweet!
gn
Ralph, Check out www.dellorto.com. I think their in the United Kingdom. Very nice people! They should have anything you need. I just ordered baby dell rebuild kits from them about a month and a half ago....got them in about 5 days , installed them and my car runs like a champ! Michael
Adjusted the carbs as well as I could and while the car runs prettty well if sometimes "spits" back thru the carb and at low rpm and idle. WHen "compression braking" I get some popping out of the exhaust. My experience is that these symptoms are contradictory. Spitting means lean and popping is rich. Is it possible that one carb is lean and the other rich?
ALso I checked my plugs at speed and they were lean. I replaced the 140 mains again and they were still rich . I drilled them out to 160 and we shall see.
ALso I checked my plugs at speed and they were lean. I replaced the 140 mains again and they were still rich . I drilled them out to 160 and we shall see.
Ralph, what idle jets are you running now?
I thought you said your mains were too lean??
Check your idle jets for blockage, also try removing the mixture screws, and blowing the passages out with compressed air or carb cleaner.
I thought you said your mains were too lean??
Check your idle jets for blockage, also try removing the mixture screws, and blowing the passages out with compressed air or carb cleaner.