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I just put my motor back together in my speedster, it's a 1835, stock cam, crank, heads (except for SS 40mm intake valves), and it has dual 36 dellortos.

The engine ran great when i first started it up, and after syncing the carbs, setting timing (30*deg total at 3000rpm), and changing the oil i drove the car 200mi and it ran like a dream. The next day i drove the car and all of a sudden one carb was backfiring thru the carb. Float height was set (actually i had to replace a float in one carb; it was cracked) and put a new needle/seat/gaskets. I had to limp it home, and when i was tuning the carb when i got home, which was at night, all of a sudden the rpm's went really high, idle was at 2000rpm, and i look at the carbs, and there was fire inside the air cleaner!!!!! man that was scary!!!!!

Everything with the carbs is set properlly, timing like i sad was set to 30 total, float height was set proper at 5-6mm holding the carb top vertically, and with 12mm drop, all mixture screws turned 3 1/2 turns out to start, and the linkage was disconnected from both carbs, then i sync the carbs (with a good snail type syncometer) and everything seems fine. A little history, this carb had what looked to be the same problem with the PO, and the only thing i found was that the float was cracked, so i replaced that and it stopped the flooding when you shut the car off, but now it's still poping thru the one carb barrel that caught fire for a seccond, and that carb is pulling a slightly less amount of air on the sync meter than the others but very little less. I've had the whole carb apart, cleaned it, new gaskets, float, o-rings, ect....and i can't figure this one out. I checked the two jets from the top of the carb that can be removed and they are clean. Fuel pressure is 3PSI, i'm stumped. :? :(

i ordered the dellorto tuning book but it won't be here for a week, anyone have any ideas????

thanks.

martin
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I just put my motor back together in my speedster, it's a 1835, stock cam, crank, heads (except for SS 40mm intake valves), and it has dual 36 dellortos.

The engine ran great when i first started it up, and after syncing the carbs, setting timing (30*deg total at 3000rpm), and changing the oil i drove the car 200mi and it ran like a dream. The next day i drove the car and all of a sudden one carb was backfiring thru the carb. Float height was set (actually i had to replace a float in one carb; it was cracked) and put a new needle/seat/gaskets. I had to limp it home, and when i was tuning the carb when i got home, which was at night, all of a sudden the rpm's went really high, idle was at 2000rpm, and i look at the carbs, and there was fire inside the air cleaner!!!!! man that was scary!!!!!

Everything with the carbs is set properlly, timing like i sad was set to 30 total, float height was set proper at 5-6mm holding the carb top vertically, and with 12mm drop, all mixture screws turned 3 1/2 turns out to start, and the linkage was disconnected from both carbs, then i sync the carbs (with a good snail type syncometer) and everything seems fine. A little history, this carb had what looked to be the same problem with the PO, and the only thing i found was that the float was cracked, so i replaced that and it stopped the flooding when you shut the car off, but now it's still poping thru the one carb barrel that caught fire for a seccond, and that carb is pulling a slightly less amount of air on the sync meter than the others but very little less. I've had the whole carb apart, cleaned it, new gaskets, float, o-rings, ect....and i can't figure this one out. I checked the two jets from the top of the carb that can be removed and they are clean. Fuel pressure is 3PSI, i'm stumped. :? :(

i ordered the dellorto tuning book but it won't be here for a week, anyone have any ideas????

thanks.

martin
martin... I have the book, but it is not in front of me. give me a fax number and I will send you the trouble shooting pages. It has helped me a ton!!! absolutely worth the nine bucks I spent at Vee parts in san diego last week while I was there. I read it cover to cover on my way back to charleston. Boring, but very well written for a dumb guy like me.
I was just going out to tear the carb apart, i don't get what the issue is since i've allready rebuilt the carb and super cleaned it. So i guess i'm going to hope i can find something.

Basically it's popping out of the one barrel, and that barrel is using a tad less air when measured by the sync meter tool, and there must be a small sputter of gas out when it's pops, that is soaking the top with fuel, and eventually it's catching fire!!! and that scares the crap out of me.

maybe you can just give me some tips as to what causes popping out the carb (not exhaust) and pulling less air than the others.

Also the mixture screw does not allow me to sync that carb to the others, but i notice there is another screw recessed right next to the mixutre screw, but it does not turn and i don't want to force it, plus it's really hard to get at in the car and it has to be the rear carb!!! just my luck!!!>

martin
i have the carb completely apart, and i mean totally, everything looks perfect, but my question is about the bypass screw, and what it's function is, and if it should be used to adjust the motor air/barrel, it is the screw right next to the idle mixture screw, and how is it adjusted? I wish i had that damm dellorto book, i'm going crazy here, the carb is immaculate, they have a grand total of 2000mi on them!!!! and they don't work :(

any help at all would be MAJORLLY APPRECIEATED.


martin
You DO need the book -- and I'm presuming you are waiting for the one written by Tomlinson.

For now, have your bypass screws closed. They are used to balance the vacuum between the front and rear barrel. You say you have different vacuum between the front and rear barrel, which might tempt you to mess with the bypass, but for now, don't.

I kinda think you might want to look at the valve adjustment on the cylinder in question. If your valve lash is tight and one of the valves isn't closing tight (probably intake) then maybe: On the intake stroke you suck in the air/fuel to the cylinder; on the compression stroke you push some of it back up into the carb throats; on ignition you light it all up.

When you are looking at it on the snail, it may read low because reversion back through a leaking valve might make it read low.

Anyway, that's my guess since you seem to have already covered the more "normal" things.

Mark
Oh, and the mixture screws aren't for "sync-ing" the carbs together. The process of sync-ing the carbs with the snail only involves getting the barrels all to suck vacuum equally, nothing to do with fuel mixture.

Once the carbs are sync-ed, then fine tune the mixture for maximum rpm. But for now, hang with your 3-1/2 turns on each barrel.

You've got the right idea for sync-ing. Do the idle with linkage disconnected. Reconnect the linkage and make sure it doesn't change the sync. Tension the throttle cable to rev up to 1800-2000, check the sync again. If one side has more vacuum than the other, reduce the side with the most vacuum to match the side with the least via adjusting the "actuating link".
Martin,
go here:
http://stores.ebay.com/ALFA1750S-CARBURETORS-PARTS-STORE
there are photos of Dellortos on a flow bench having the flow adjusted.

The other way to adjust these balance ports is with a manometer (4 tubes of fluid) hooked to those ports to measure balance as engine is running. Motorcyles with multiple carbs are the usual users of manometers.
However... they aren't that critical. Just close them and balance cylinders with the idle mixture adjusting screws.
If you can't get a cylinder to react to lean or rich with the idle mixture screws, STOP and figure out why, before you continue.
Things like dirty idle jets, vacuum leaks maladjusted linkage, or way-wrong size idle jets are the usual culprits.

Greg
thanks for all the help guys, i really really apprecieate it.

I actually figured it all out, the valves were adjusted perfectly, 0 lash (loose "0") cold (chromoly rods). All the air bypass screws were tight, and the o-rings were bad on them so i replaced those, and eventually figured it all out. Basically i matched the flow on the 2 front barrels with the idle speed screw adjustment, and made sure the carbs were pulling the same amount of air (with sync meter) with all idle mixture screws 3 1/2 turns out. Then i tuned the mixture screws until the idle dropped, then opened them up a turn, then balanced the rear barrels with the air bypass screws last, then repeated that proceedure until it was perfect, then i installed the linkage and synced that up perfect.

Lets just say it's perfect now, purrs like a kitten.

i'm still waiting for the book, but at least now it runs awesome, and i'm just about going to take it for a drive to test it out. wish me luck, i'll report back.

once again thanks for all the help guys. Dual carbs are new to me, but i feel like a pro now!!!

martin
well, 121.6mi later and she runs awesome. I'm very familar with porsche 911 zenith carbs, but these dual dellorto's are very different!!! I seem to have figured it all out, it's actually a fairly long process to sync the carbs perfectly, but i think i'm 99.9% there, i could have farted around a little more but i was just too damm busy driving it!!!!! That 1835 really makes alot of power, plus the oil temps are perfect, it runs at a constant 175-180*deg and idles hot with 25psi of oil pressure, and at cruise it's at 45-50psi, so all is good, now i gotta rack the miles on the speedy.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/speedster/DSC04489.jpg

martin
ya jim, it's a awesome feeling to finally drive it. I bought the car in december, basically the start of winter, and there were alot of things that i did'nt like about the setup. Basically the PO did'nt have any clue as to the size of the engine, he said it's a 1500, and i look and it's a dual port motor. ALso it had a domestic coil on it that said "use only with external balist resistor"!!!! it would die every 5 mins when the coil overheated, and idled at 2500rpm!!!! There was a cracked float and it was flooding down the one bank of carbs. It was a complete basket case, scat chrome 36hp style shroud, ect...on and on with all the mistakes. Durring the winter i pulled the motor, the motor (and car) only had 1700mi on it and sat in someones loft for 8yrs, so it was basically a "new" car. After tearing the motor down, i could see it was new, and the wash-down of gas did'nt do anything to the motor (thank god it was'nt driven alot!!!!) and i found out it's a 1835, with stainless intake valves 40mm!!!. What a good combo, i would never have built a engine like that, but it pulls from 1200rpm-4500rpm very very nicely, otherwise the motor is stock. So i bought a OEM VW DP shroud, good heater boxes (not the lightweight ones that were on it) and hunted a set of thermostat and flaps. What a difference, the oil temps are perfect, and there's actually a really good amount of heat in the car!!!!

here's a pic of the completed motor:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/speedster/DSC04841.jpg

ps: anyone expirence a oil leak at the fuel pump pin with the 2 c-clips on it??? it's the pin that holds the lifter in the pump, and i seem to have a slight oil leak there. suggestions?

martin
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