Did my starter just die?

Memorial Day, going out for a putt, so I go to start her up, just a soft 'clunk' noise from the starter, like the battery was close to dead. Tried to jump start and nothing happens, no 'clunk' even. Push started and drove around for a bit, shut off and no starter noise at all this time. Where do I start tracing this problem? Arcing at the starter? I've got a new, fully charged battery, didn't dim the headlights when I turned the key. Can someone point me in the right direction, a good starting place for getting up and running before summer. Thanks, Brian

This may be helpful:
http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfqstrt.htm

It talks about the entire starter, solenoid and electrical relationship of fat wires to the components, but there's a good checklist of stuff to try if your starter doesn't seem to work. Is got wiring diagrams for Beetles of almost every year from the fifties on up; you should be fine.

Cory, thanks alot, I knew someone out there would have info. Just spent the last four hours looking at your pics-(whew)that's a whole bunch-o-photos. I never get tired of Speedster shots. Cool project you've taken on.

Hey Brian!

The same thing happens to my car once in a great while!

The next time that happens to you, try this low-tech solution before you do anything drastic or expensive...

...when you have that starter problem (thunk) again, get out and rock your car back-and-forth while in gear...try to start again... I'll bet a buck that it will start!!

Peace - Out!!

I'll raise that bet to $1.25 and guess you have an intermittent starter solenoid (your lights didn't dim so no current draw=no relay movement). Find yourself a broom stick, have someone hold the key in the start position (neutral,brake on), tap the starter solenoid (piggybacked on starter). Your car should start.---Goodluck

Yeah been there. Would happen when it was hot out. I put up with it for 1 whole season. I needed to crawl under the passenger rear and tap the solenoid with the trusty polish wrench (hammer) and it would start like it was brand new. I started carrying a beach towel to lie down on. Since then I bought a new Bosch starter $60.00 and it took about 30 minutes to fiddle fart the 2 bolts that hold it on and now it cranks with a vengeance.

As Mike said, it's better to spring up for a new or rebuilt Bosch unit.....

I may have posted this in the past...when replacing a starter you can change it out without mods with a (New)starter for a semi automatic Beetle,( $99) it has add'l torque and has a self contained nose cone that eliminates the bushing in the trans housing ...this is the Only starters I have installed.

You guys are great, it's like the old days (60's) hanging out a The auto parts store with dad listening while they all talked about their slight problems - cars only talk. Thanks for all the help. See some of you at Crystal Cove, Brian

alrighty then, I have a souped up Westy up on jacks trying to look or figure out the same problem ,I guess it's time for a good starter, see you at the beach. Cabanaboy

My D automatic uses the same non supported type starter.

I recenty found a hd starter used and had it checked out by a starter/alternator specialist He confirmed it as Hd because it comes factory with 4 brushes instead of the stanard 2 brushes

It needed a new solenoid and pilot bushing on the gear end but other wise was perfect. and is now on the car.

I asked if he had a spare and yelp he said he could build me a spare out of my old one ,and covert it to 4 brushes. with another field housing.

I had not had any trouble before the part swap But suspected the one on the car was getting worn. He popped of the end and yelp the brushes were nearly gone.

Cip-1 does offer a reducion drive starter but their aftermaket. also suposed to be good. ButIm not convenced

Gear reduction starters are the bomb - but be advised of this. If you are using a crank fire ignition system, the "noise" from the gear reduction starter will often eliminate the signal coming from your crank sensor. Fixable with a resister but if you didn't know that, it would be a real head scratcher... (nearly drove me nuts)

angela

Hey Angela: I

Bruce, I wound up installing a 1/4 watt 1k resistor from Radio Shack. 99 cents buys 5 of them. There are two wires for the crank sensor. The resistor is now parallel between those two lines.

Richard at Clewett Engineering was the fellow who figured out my lack of crank signal. I bought the resistors and on the drive home remember shaking my head looking at this little doo-hickeys thinking there is NO way this is going to work. I was so doubtful that I did not even wire it in. I held in place with my bare hands and it fired right up. Holey smokes!!! Steve came home and properly soldered it in place.

Don't know what it is about a gear reduction starter that makes it so electrically noisy, but it is. Further, some are noisier than others. Trust me to get a really noisy one. Many EFI cars run gear reduction starters from the factory (toyotas for instance). Evidently the shielding works just great.

I'd check with your MFI maker about the gear reduction starter noise. Your shielding may prevent any problems. Or you are using voltage instead of signal for your system. It should (theoretically)only be signal that is tripped up by electrical interference.

angela

Thanks Angela, My crank trigger is a magnetic one so it could be an issue. I will let you know how it works out.
Thanks
Bruce