Is it common for the 550 to be hard to start in the morning or when it has been sitting for a day in the garage at work? This is my daily driver, so I start her every morning and each evening when I'm finished at work. v v
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Is it common for the 550 to be hard to start in the morning or when it has been sitting for a day in the garage at work? This is my daily driver, so I start her every morning and each evening when I'm finished at work. v v
If you still have contact breaker points in the ignition distributor, starting can be reluctant. You may want to remove and keep the points and condenser and replace them with a Compufire or Pertronix electronic ignition trigger. Carry the points & condenser just in case. You'll find cold starts much easier. One or two pumps on the gas to prime, and it should fire right up.
Ralph is right switch to electronic ignition makes all the difference
I've also heard that a high torque starter helps.
Thanks for the replies. But I have an electronic ignition. At least that's what I ordered from CBM so I'm sure it's in there! v v
It's easy to check, just pop the distributor cap and look and see if you have points in there. If you do have electronic ignition then go with Bert
YOU GUYS! I don't know what points look like, except on a scoreboard! ha
I will have my boyfriend look and make the determination. I can't imagine that CBM did not install it when it was ordered. v v
I will have my boyfriend look and make the determination. I can't imagine that CBM did not install it when it was ordered. v v
Hey Vicki:
When will we get to see photos?
When will we get to see photos?
Terry--I've tried numerous times to download pix and can't seem to make it work. Any suggestions? v
Vicki:
Here are the instructions I was given to upload photos to the spyderowners files section courtesy of Bert Fenenga:
You go to the Files tab up on top,
Click on Add a Folder (the one with a plus on it),
Enter a Name (What I tried to do was to add my Spyder name and then do folders underneath that so you can have specific photos under each folder. What you do is add a folder and then add a folder under this one),
Then you click on Upload a File to this Directory (or Add File),
Then it asks you where the photo is on your computer so you point it to the photo and add the photo.
The only bummer is you have to add them one at a time.
Make sure you reduce the size of each photo to about half the normal size or the website limit will cut them off before they are fully printed.
Terry
Here are the instructions I was given to upload photos to the spyderowners files section courtesy of Bert Fenenga:
You go to the Files tab up on top,
Click on Add a Folder (the one with a plus on it),
Enter a Name (What I tried to do was to add my Spyder name and then do folders underneath that so you can have specific photos under each folder. What you do is add a folder and then add a folder under this one),
Then you click on Upload a File to this Directory (or Add File),
Then it asks you where the photo is on your computer so you point it to the photo and add the photo.
The only bummer is you have to add them one at a time.
Make sure you reduce the size of each photo to about half the normal size or the website limit will cut them off before they are fully printed.
Terry
Terry,
Actually I have changed the way files are uploaded. It is much simpler now. You don't have to worry about creating folders, all of your photos are put into a folder that is your username. Mine is IDIDTHAT.
Just click "Files" on the above menu, then click "Add a File". Click "Choose a File", select the location of the file from your computer and click "Upload!"
The file will automatically be resampled if it's file size is too large. It will also be shrunk if it's dimensions are too large. I've tried to make it as simple as possible, let me know if you have any questions.
-=theron
Actually I have changed the way files are uploaded. It is much simpler now. You don't have to worry about creating folders, all of your photos are put into a folder that is your username. Mine is IDIDTHAT.
Just click "Files" on the above menu, then click "Add a File". Click "Choose a File", select the location of the file from your computer and click "Upload!"
The file will automatically be resampled if it's file size is too large. It will also be shrunk if it's dimensions are too large. I've tried to make it as simple as possible, let me know if you have any questions.
-=theron
Theron:
Glad to hear that. Thanks
Glad to hear that. Thanks
Vicki:
Congratulations! I saw your photo on Spyderowners.com.
Congratulations! I saw your photo on Spyderowners.com.
I'm going to try to upload some others. v v
I noticed that all the guys responding to this query are from the warm state of California. I'm from northern Georgia and have found my 550 to be VERY difficult to start when the air temp drops below 55 degrees. I know that Nashville's winter weather is probably a little cooler than here in Georgia.
I don't know about your cars, but mine did not come with the manual carburetor chokes connected (The Webers have chokes, but no cables or linkage was installed). As an experiment, I rigged a temporary linkage on the chokes and the car fired right up on a 28 degree morning. My next step is to install permanent linkage and cable. I had this same problem with a 356 S90 I owned. Installation of a manual choke cured the problem in that car as well.
As an aside, this isn't the only cold weather problem I've had with my 550. SCAT, the engine builder, put 20-W-50 racing oil in the engine when it was put on the dyno. No one knew it was coming to North Georgia and left that oil in it. One 36 degree day I fired it up only to blow the oil filter apart and recreate the Exxon-Valdez incident So now it uses 10-W-30 racing oil in winter and 20-W-50 in summer.
I don't know about your cars, but mine did not come with the manual carburetor chokes connected (The Webers have chokes, but no cables or linkage was installed). As an experiment, I rigged a temporary linkage on the chokes and the car fired right up on a 28 degree morning. My next step is to install permanent linkage and cable. I had this same problem with a 356 S90 I owned. Installation of a manual choke cured the problem in that car as well.
As an aside, this isn't the only cold weather problem I've had with my 550. SCAT, the engine builder, put 20-W-50 racing oil in the engine when it was put on the dyno. No one knew it was coming to North Georgia and left that oil in it. One 36 degree day I fired it up only to blow the oil filter apart and recreate the Exxon-Valdez incident So now it uses 10-W-30 racing oil in winter and 20-W-50 in summer.
Terry, most Webers sold for use in VW applications have the starting jets & linkage removed and the space is covered with a simple plated metal blank.
High performance oil filters like Purolator, WIX 5150 and Fram HP better withstand the popped filter gasket on cold start. Gasket is contained by a hegher metal lip & the can is built beefier. O-ringed System 1 is bullet proof. Big Melling pump, sub 40 deg cold starts with 20/50 and enough revs to keep running would pop OEM VW Rabbit filter or garden variety Fram. Even more revs under same conditions didn't faze System 1. PITA to clean, though. Now run Berg pressure relief pump cover.
Colder here in NORCAL than in GA past week. Low 30's o'nite in Bay Area & snow down to 3200'.
High performance oil filters like Purolator, WIX 5150 and Fram HP better withstand the popped filter gasket on cold start. Gasket is contained by a hegher metal lip & the can is built beefier. O-ringed System 1 is bullet proof. Big Melling pump, sub 40 deg cold starts with 20/50 and enough revs to keep running would pop OEM VW Rabbit filter or garden variety Fram. Even more revs under same conditions didn't faze System 1. PITA to clean, though. Now run Berg pressure relief pump cover.
Colder here in NORCAL than in GA past week. Low 30's o'nite in Bay Area & snow down to 3200'.
H-m-m-m-m...Hope I didn't come across as a know-it-all. I hate that when I see it on a board.
I'll look closer at the Webers. I haven't had a carbureted car in 10 years (Last was a '66 912) so am feeling my way along here.
Regarding the oil filter/20-W-50 incident(s)...At 34 degrees it blew a WIX 5150 apart at the upper crimp...Actually separated the metal. At 45 degrees it blew the gasket in a FRAM HP1. The EPA would fine me if they saw my driveway!
The 10-W-30 seems to have solved that problem for now, but I still flinch every time I start it when the weather is cold.
Thanks for the heads up.
I'll look closer at the Webers. I haven't had a carbureted car in 10 years (Last was a '66 912) so am feeling my way along here.
Regarding the oil filter/20-W-50 incident(s)...At 34 degrees it blew a WIX 5150 apart at the upper crimp...Actually separated the metal. At 45 degrees it blew the gasket in a FRAM HP1. The EPA would fine me if they saw my driveway!
The 10-W-30 seems to have solved that problem for now, but I still flinch every time I start it when the weather is cold.
Thanks for the heads up.
Took another look at my Webers and as I thought they are equipped with manual chokes. Talked to SCAT (The engine builders) and they confirmed that all that needed to be done was to connect a cable and sync the chokes. A good project for the long weekend coming up.