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Disc Brake Blunder! Need help to save the weekend...

FM Former Member
It's been over six months since she's been back on the road.

It was back in Oct2004 when the splines in the rear hub stripped out. I think the original owner/builder didn't tighten the castle nut to the specified poundage.

Any way, I finally got all the parts from CIP1 this past Thursday.
I started out by replaceing the SS brake line that was severed by the tow operator when he chained her down. That took a whole 5 min. with most of my time spent trying to disengage the e-brake cable. It was a bit frustrating getting it back on, as it was short to begin with.

I decided that I should finish the brake work first before dealing with replacing the rotor. I attached the bleeder bottle to the bleeder valve. Added some fresh fluid in the reservoir and proceeded to slowly pump away. It didn't take but a couple of pumps for the brake fluid to start flowing into the bleeder bottle, when I realized that I shouldn't have skipped a step. Without the disc rotor in place, the pads were now pressed against each other.

Short of pounding my head with a rubber mallet, I started to removed the e-brake line again and the whole caliper assembly so I could try an pry the pads apart. When all said and done, I removed to brake pads with hopes of slowly squeezing the brake caliper piston back down. No such luck! It didn't budge at all.

I'm hoping that i'm just missing a minor step here. Do I need to disassemble the seals in order to release the pressure from the brake piston? I've given up for the evening with hopes of getting some advice from the pros out there! My hopes are to get done early enough, finish the rotor replacement before the weekend dissappears...little help please - M
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FM Former Member
It's been over six months since she's been back on the road.

It was back in Oct2004 when the splines in the rear hub stripped out. I think the original owner/builder didn't tighten the castle nut to the specified poundage.

Any way, I finally got all the parts from CIP1 this past Thursday.
I started out by replaceing the SS brake line that was severed by the tow operator when he chained her down. That took a whole 5 min. with most of my time spent trying to disengage the e-brake cable. It was a bit frustrating getting it back on, as it was short to begin with.

I decided that I should finish the brake work first before dealing with replacing the rotor. I attached the bleeder bottle to the bleeder valve. Added some fresh fluid in the reservoir and proceeded to slowly pump away. It didn't take but a couple of pumps for the brake fluid to start flowing into the bleeder bottle, when I realized that I shouldn't have skipped a step. Without the disc rotor in place, the pads were now pressed against each other.

Short of pounding my head with a rubber mallet, I started to removed the e-brake line again and the whole caliper assembly so I could try an pry the pads apart. When all said and done, I removed to brake pads with hopes of slowly squeezing the brake caliper piston back down. No such luck! It didn't budge at all.

I'm hoping that i'm just missing a minor step here. Do I need to disassemble the seals in order to release the pressure from the brake piston? I've given up for the evening with hopes of getting some advice from the pros out there! My hopes are to get done early enough, finish the rotor replacement before the weekend dissappears...little help please - M
FM Former Member
I hope it is not to late, SOME Calipers have pistons that screw or twist in!!! I went out and bought an 8" C-clamp to use to push the pistons in, like I'd do with the old 911. Before going crazy, I called Henry and he clued me in. Never heard of it before but use the waterpump pliers to twist the piston(s) open. If you go out to far, the brake pedel has way to much 'dead' space.

FM Former Member
Alan & Gordon

I didn't have a large enough "c" clamp, but made do with a very large wood working clamp. It still didn't budge.

I did take Dale's comment into consideration and started messing with the piston assembly. I was about to pry the rubber seal open to have a better look inside, but held off.

The first picture just above "e-brake cable" would push the piston out further and further everytime I pulled on it.

The second and third pic showed the caliper piston that I eventually rotated to get it back down. Thanks for the ideas!

I've got caliper assembly back in place, and just about ready to start on the rotor replacement.

I've got most everything cleaned off, but noticed some rubbery sealant that came off the face plate in front of the bearing. The seal kit only came with a paper gasket. Should I add some kind of sealant to keep the tranny oil from leaking again? Is the paper gasket and new rubber seals enough to keep it from leaking, assuming that I get the 325 lbs on the castle nut?

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Gordon NicholsGordon NicholsMassachusetts 1993 CMC Supporting Member
At the risk of sounding like a dummy twice.... (I sat here and slapped the side of my head when I realized that you are dealing with the REAR caliper - Duh!! Of COURSE they ratchet out!! They have to for the e-brake adjusters!!)

It probably wouldn't hurt to put a thin film of Permatex on the paper gasket before you assemble everything. It shouldn't need a lot, anyway. Remember to use a single-edge razor blade on the surfaces to remove any of the old sealant completely, first.

If you don't have a moosy, 350 lb. torque wrench, just use an 18" bat handle with a piece of pipe for an extender using this method:

Go weigh yourself with the clothes you're wearing when you get the castle nut on.

Divide the desired foot-pounds (325) by your weight - for me, it's 325/167=1.946 feet.

.946/12(inches) = 11.4 inches so you'll need to find a point on the bat handle/pipe that is 23-3/8" from the castle nut pivot point. Put a small piece of masking tape on that point, then tighten the nut til it starts to get tight. Position the socket/bat handle for tightening leverage, and stand on the pipe with one foot, right on the tape mark, so that all your weight is on one foot, right above that mark. You may have to re-position the wrench a couple of times, but it should eventually stop turning with just your weight on it, and that should be pretty close to 325 foot pounds. Don't bounce on it or anything, just let your weight turn it til it stops - that's it.

Remember to use your own weight as the starting point. This method works surprisingly well if you do the calcs carefully and measure accurately (and don't bounce!!).

gn


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