Well I got 'em off! I have one of those flat empi tools you can use a breaker bar or a hammer on. Both sides are conventional right hand threads and yes! were they TIGHT! But as Murphy dictates, one of the end cap bolts was tight and rounded off, but the mini grinder made short order of it. Now it's off to the hardware store to get new endcap bolts. This conversion seems pretty straight forward. We'll see how it goes. Ill' also have to deal with shortening the e-brake cables, but that'll be round 2. New cotter pins come with the kit. I'll have to get a Bentley manual, the Haynes manual is ok, but vague in some areas.
Thanx all,
BD
(Message Edited 5/27/2003 6:39:55 PM)
Joe or Bruce,
Just wondering where you got the machining done for tthe disc brakes? I'm running four wheel disc brakes and was looking to step up the tire size a little but the wheels are pretty close to the fenders as it is. The machining sounds like just the ticket.
J-P
Just wondering where you got the machining done for tthe disc brakes? I'm running four wheel disc brakes and was looking to step up the tire size a little but the wheels are pretty close to the fenders as it is. The machining sounds like just the ticket.
J-P
Jean
At my place of work I was able to get one of our fine machinist to cut the rotor bolting faces down. Intitally someone suggested to have someone turn them down on a brake lathe. Talking to the a machinist he said that the brake lathe would not give you a true face cut. Once the rotor was set up in the head stock in took no time to cut it. I could now fit 45's under the rear wheel wells after I square the body on the frame. We are going to drill a five lug pattern in all the rotors for a future wheel change out.We made a jig to drill a GM pattern.
Joe S.
At my place of work I was able to get one of our fine machinist to cut the rotor bolting faces down. Intitally someone suggested to have someone turn them down on a brake lathe. Talking to the a machinist he said that the brake lathe would not give you a true face cut. Once the rotor was set up in the head stock in took no time to cut it. I could now fit 45's under the rear wheel wells after I square the body on the frame. We are going to drill a five lug pattern in all the rotors for a future wheel change out.We made a jig to drill a GM pattern.
Joe S.
Jean-Paul: I did it myself. I wouldn
I finished my rear disc conversion and all went pretty well.
Interesting to note on my 72 pan, the rotohubs situated 1/2 inch
inboard on each side. No problem with tire rub here. When I went to do the e-brake, I found the existing cables had neat ends at the brake lever end. After measuring, I zipped the cables off with the mini grinder. The cables went about a 1/2 inch into the end of the adjusting bolt and locked down with an 1/8 set screw. I never saw
one of these cable end adapters before. It really made this end of the job a breeze. I am always learning something new as I work on my car.
BD
Interesting to note on my 72 pan, the rotohubs situated 1/2 inch
inboard on each side. No problem with tire rub here. When I went to do the e-brake, I found the existing cables had neat ends at the brake lever end. After measuring, I zipped the cables off with the mini grinder. The cables went about a 1/2 inch into the end of the adjusting bolt and locked down with an 1/8 set screw. I never saw
one of these cable end adapters before. It really made this end of the job a breeze. I am always learning something new as I work on my car.
BD
I just about ready to do the e-brakes on the same rear brake system.
Bill, did you have to take the emergency brake handle off to get at the cable, or were you able to fish the cable out?
Ron
Bill, did you have to take the emergency brake handle off to get at the cable, or were you able to fish the cable out?
Ron
Ron, I took the lever off to get the cables up but you could probably get them with a long pair of needle nose and some luck. The lever comes off
easily in the down position. Just don't push the release button when lifting it off or the ratchet catch will fall into the tunnel.
BD
easily in the down position. Just don't push the release button when lifting it off or the ratchet catch will fall into the tunnel.
BD
The '65 C/SC had them all way 'round. Nothing better.
I was leafing thru the JC Whitney VW catalog and came across those neat special ends for the e-brake cables.(which I mentioned above) If you don't have them already, they make shortening e-brake cables a snap when doing a rear disc conversion. Item is called "Cable Shortening and Repair Kit" #AHC857161A $5.95 on page 44.
BD
BD
For a stronger petal when you hit the brakes some folks are upgrading to a bus master cylinder, but the check valves are a must, and they have three verrsons with differnt ckeck presures, be sure to ask which is needed when doing 4 wheel disc brakes
CB Performance recommends a 4lb. residual pressure valve in line to the rear. I am running a stock master cyl. for a 72 bug. John at JPS passed along the tip, if using a valve, to bleed the front brakes first, then the rear, for a firmer pedal. Until I get the boys car out of my shop, I won't know the results of this method.
BD
(Message Edited 6/15/2003 9:10:37 PM)
BD
(Message Edited 6/15/2003 9:10:37 PM)
What is the purpose of the residual pressure valve and the check values? What exactly do they do?
Check valves maintane a low presure charge out to the calipers,so you don,t have a petal that drops a bit when you hit the brake. before I installed mine I actually had to pump the brake to get it up to the top. With the check valves (Perfect)
Barry is correct in saying check valves keep a small "charge " in the lines thus you maintain a constant good high pedal as w/o the pedal tends to be slightly less and pedal travel
Alan Merklin
Alan Merklin