Dissection of a vw / Speedster pan

Well I decided to remove the body off the pan /chassis to prepare the body for paint. Looking at the pan, it just wasn

Joe

There are frame head sections available to replace this. I have run into this also. The replacment frame head assembly must be welded into place exactly as the old one is, any variation what so ever and you'll not be able to get a decent aligment.
At the point where you are, for safety sake,peace of mind and over cost, I would do nothing other than replace the entire pan assembly using what you can from the old aassembly. I am sure the further you look into what you have the more structual weakness will be discovered...........Alan M.

This kind of information on almost a daily basis and some people can't understand the idea of being a donating member. The information flow here outweighs the cost of any magazine subscription you could ever find. I have yet to meet a member but feel that every member I have been in touch with has gone out of their way to share information and experience in the most friendly and gracious manner. On top of that this site is just down right kick as-. Thanks for existing. and thanks to Theron for making it happen.

So, Jeff.......ya'll coming up to Carlisle to meet some of us donating members "up close and personal??"

Of course, this is always a risky proposition......you might find out that we're a lot weirder-looking than you thought!! (or not!)

Thanks Alan for the info. The VW pan design was solely for weight since the power plant was only 65 hp. The more weight the more HP. I have experience in chassis building which was primarly late model stock cars.I have fab a few formula vees also. The chassis update will added another 200 lbs though it will have a 175 hp power plant. I'll post pictures of my progress.

on my non-flared I'm using the vw pan tunnel section no floor pans or sides at all, to flimsy and to prone to rust. I'm fabricating that from scratch to match the bottom of the speedster body, the side rails and all structure is steel that will be coated and floor pans are cnc .090 anodized brushed aluminum, that will make them preety and durable (I hope)

Check this website: www.volkyperformance.com They have the frame head assembly for '66 to '78 models for $110.00; it's part # 113 701 037L. Check under Specials under the Bumpers, Levers, Pedals section.

Careful with aluminum and steel, they tend to have a chemical reaction over time when mated together.
Alan M.

I agree. The electrolytic action between Steel and Aluminum is pretty atrocious - it can easily cause the aluminum to corrode where it touches the steel such that it'll rot out in a couple of years (maybe less if it's continually humid where you are). Some marine places have developed coatings that purportedly reduce the electrolytic action, but the best method is to avoid disimilar metal contact.

If you are using aluminum with carbon steel make sure you properly prep the surfaces and apply a good coating. You want to protect the dissimalar metals from moisture to prevent the galvanic attack. No moisture no corrosion. With no coating the aluminum will corrode. And if you are near the sea water the salt will accelerate the corrosion. As far as the frame head goes it can be saved. The frame is stripped down for sandblasting to expose any more hidden secrets. I was completely surprised to find the brazed structural repair. Not being to familar with the rear suspension I am having the hardest time trying to remove the rear IRS axle bearings and seals. I guess you could call my project two sets forward 10 back. Maybe I should of went for a new kit rather than tacking someone else mess.. Nothing like builing a better mouse trap .... I mean bath tub.

AgreeD Gordon, Though you need 4 parts for corrosion to occur - In the chassis case - Part 1 Cathode-Carbon steel , part 2 Anode -Aluminum -part 3 Metallic path - Frame part 4 electrolite- moisture/water. Yes in the Marine industry they have plenty of water. Never buy one of those cathodic protection system the dealers sell for new cars . It's doesn't work - waste of $500-$1000.
Here's the bare bones of my chassis. Ugly

Looks great to me.... like the frame of a beautiful girl!

I feel like a coroner performing an autopsy.The pan has been beheaded and gutted. Found plenty of corrosion. There wasn't much intergrity to the mounting bolt sleeve in the pan head. I see plenty of design changes to come.
Dr.JOE

Well here is my Frankinstein! I used the CMC body frame as a jig. It sits nice and square.
Joe

Nice job Joe!

I've heard that the VW pan has flex. What is the best way of strengthening the pan once it has been shortened? I was thinking of square tube. Thanks

The VW design is sort of an odd unibody structure.The main structure of the VW chassis is the center tube or hump. When the pan is bolted to the bug body components the entire structure becomes sound and somewhat ridged. VW Bug's have been pushed with 200+ motors and the structure appears to handle it. The speedster to VW pan case is somewhat questionable. Stock VW motors 65 -100 HP would problaby be fine. In my situation of my 1989 CMC Fiberfab I just didn't like the thought of (4) 3/8" bolts , (8) lag bolts and (2) 1/2" rear bolts holding the car together. The silicone caulk also has some holding power.I figured if I am putting a Raby T4 2270 in my car with 160HP there need to be a structural change. I also didn't like how the pan matched up with the body frame. I guess its a personal preferrence. The recent Speedster manufacturers have changed their designs to eliminate these issues. So to answer your question Darryl I would base it on what you are really going to do with your Speedster. Every day cruiser I would say you would be fine with the pan.
Joe

Frame is about done. Decided to upgrade the entire foot control system. Next is the sheet metal work for the pan. Time for bead rollin action.

Update - Won't be able to make the East coast show. Started installing the floor sections. Looks real smooth underneath.
Take lots of pictures at the show.

looks great joe!

Joe,

It's a work of ART. Just beautiful. What a shame it'll be to cover it all up!!!

TC

That is really beaufitul Joe, nic work.
-=theron

Dang Joe, If I had your fabrication skills and your tools I woulda had a coil-over IFS on my tub a long time ago (not that durn beam, but a real, tuneable, camber-gaining IFS. Do I sound jealous? Well yeah. Excelent job.

Thanks for the comment s guys. The thought did run through my head to retro fit an A-arm front suspension on this chassis. I still have a crate of AFCO A arms ,carrera coil overs, and Wildwood Disc brake systems from the ol Late Model. I did sketch up a full race chassis which I plan on building in the future. The doors will still open though you will have to climb over chassis bars to seat yourself.I am trying a few new ideas on this chassis. The CNC dual cylinder brake system will be a great improvement for stopping. Debating on installing the bias control. I have a very unique rollbar design that fits the shape/contour of the car and top. Just cannot find a fab shop that can bend a partial elipse. I did try the Jesse James ways of bending tubing around a wood template. Cannot get a nice uniform bend. Even tried to pack the tube solid with sand. No luck. I'll get it done one of these days.
joe

call Jesse himself :)

Here's the update.Chassis is about complete. Should be able to mount the motor soon. Just have to wait for ordered parts. Just can't buy Bug parts anywhere . I added a little cockpit protection.
Joe

Joe "Jessie" Soltis...

What a work or art!..... my hat is of to you !

Alan M

Joe
Is that a hydraulic clutch in there?
ed

Yes There is

very nice. I was thinking about going hydraulic last summer when I was spending 2 months futzing around with a broken clutch cable tube in the tunnel, but I eventually got it working.
ed