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So long as the slot lines up with the distributor drive gear, it doesn't really make any different where the body is. All you have to do is know that firing order is 1-4-3-2 Hopefully, you put the engine at TDC before you removed the distributor to assist in the installation of the new distributor. Once you have the distributor engaged in the drive gear, slightly tighten the band that locks the distributor from turning. Tighten the nut that slides over the 8mm stud with a 13mm wrench. If you had the engine at TDC #1 then rotate the distibutuor so you can install the cap. Then install the wires in the correct firing order. Start the car, time it to 28 degree's before TDC at 3,500 RPM's and lock it down.
Have it in, Have it running. Still Have a flat spot. Timing is good, full advance at 28 degrees. Does not pop or sputter when backing down, idles smooth. Carbs?

Also.. would like to change the distributor position so that it sits correct. I understand I need a distributor drive gear puller. Once I have that, how complicated is it to do?
Thanks for the heads up. I couldnt sleep, went down into the garage and rotated the drive gear. I did not pull it all the way out. It did not sound like anything dropped into the engine. Perhaps I got Lucky? Its too late to start the car up and re-time it. The neighbors hear enough of that on Saturday/Sunday mornings as is. I live in the city, wall to wall brick row houses. Lots of hard surfaces for the sound to bounce off of.

Tomorrow we will see...

damn, forgot to put that little spring back in.
Paul, you mentioned that you had a flat spot. Did you drive the car to discover this problem or did you just rev up the engine???

Many times, a flat spot is attributed to the ignition system and is really nothing more that a jetting problem or, if you're lucky, a simple thing of just adjusting your accelerator pumps. When you open your carburetor butterfly's, 2 things happen, more air rushes into the engine and an enrichened supply of fuel is introduced via the accelerator pump. It squirts raw fuel into the venturi to overcome the sudden change in vacuum caused by opening the throttle.

Two things can occur (actually 3) One is that there isn't enough fuel entering the system and the engine will stumble. THe other is too much fuel will enter the system and the engine will stumble (the 3rd is like Goldylocks, it's just right and everything works properly)

Try revving up the engine and if you see a slight amount of black smoke then lean out the accelerator bump, vice versa if you don't see any smoke. This can only be done if you drive the car so it does become a slow process. Pay close attention to the accelerator pump linkage, it can fool you...

The more it travels, the more fuel is introduced into the carburetor
Bill, 32 is way too much advance with today's crap fuel. You run a HUGE risk of detonation which will destroy your engine.

If you back down to 28 BTDC you're on the safe side with virtually no risk of detonation. If you're running 100 octane or more then 32 is no problem.

But, it's your engine, this is just a courtesy message.
Still dialing it in but can already tell a big difference between the 009 and 019. I was running a petronix in the 009, points in the 019. The 019 seems to pull strong and steady, much more steady than the 009. I am still trying to eliminate the flat spot/hesitation. It is most noticeable in 2nd gear. I played with the dellorto pump diaphram, not sure how much good it did me. I tightened the nut on the linkage, does tightening it give it more or less fuel?

interesting that 32 BTDC is way too much. I keep coming across that very number on The Samba when discussing what to time the 019/010 to. Right now I am idling at 8 with a total advance of 30. in order to get to 32 id be very advanced at idle. It already seems like 8 is alot. Would adjusting points make a difference? I just dropped the distributor in.
Like I said, 30 and 32 is way too much if you're using today's crap gasoline. Set it at 28 BTDC and you'll be way within the safe side to prevent detonation.
Typically, if you loosen the nut on the accelerator pump, you're allowing the arm to have more movement, more movement equals more gasoline when you open the throttle.
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