Do I need a Stripper ?

I thought you just washed it with Dawn dishwashing soap and it stripped all the old wax off? Then you could clay off paint contaminants.

Its tooooo early in the morning.....  The brain is till half asleep.......   The first question coming to mind when I read your post title was......   " Is he going to Vegas???"

David, at some point we all need a stripper.

Go online at www.griotsgarage.com and look at their products.  They provide usage tips and the quality of their products has never disappointed me.

That's probably why they are called Rock Fish in the South.  Try to differentiate saying I'm going out to catch some "strippers/stripers" with a southern draw.  Will get you in trouble every time!  Doesn't help when you say you will need to buy a new pole either.

My experience with the "miracle" scratch removers is they don't work "as seen on TV" at all .....

I have tried this

and this

WNGD posted:

My experience with the "miracle" scratch removers is they don't work "as seen on TV" at all .....

 

I have tried this

and this

How did they work ? 

They both look like rubbing compounds that removed paint on either side of scratch to hide it. Dr. ColorChip is the one you apply and rub your finger to fill the scratch/chip.  I've heard good results with it.

As to effectiveness the scratch doctor can work but a good detail needs some compound 

The first thing in my books would be to get a smalll 3 inch random orbital polisher and some polish in different grades 

I got all this from Griots years ago 

autoobsessed in calgary is your source David

you can remove swirls small scratches etc .. if they are deep and you can really feel them with your nail then it is more of an issue

claying ia also very good 

I just did 5starshine on my roadster and it is a many year wax and I find it better than all the others I tried inxlusing griots, autoglym, etc 

first thing though is clean and cut/ compound the car with random orbital polisher

FYI I have seen before and after of cars done and it is night and day 

if you know someone who owns a high end car it can be professionaly done for you 

Not sure if Goldwing in Nepean does it 

Thanks for the info, Ray . I'll figure out the best solution for me and do it at home. Paying people to make my car look nice is just not in my DNA.      I have too much patina myself. 

Sure looking forward to a road trip soon though. The Bride is recommending high quality Mex restaurants near Santa Rosa, NM  !!  With the heater working well and good weather forecasts I'm sure we could beat our way down through Penn State and head SW easily over the winter. Wealthy Bro in Law has a nice place in Scottsdale....

I figured you might want to DIY that is why I gave you the link but if your going to the USA you could easily get the stuff and do it down south.   

NM, and heat.   I wish I could just take off myself but we are not yet free.  I have been looking at an RV to do that very thing. 

Watch this...

https://www.bing.com/videos/se...547A51&FORM=VIRE

But, do it in the shade if you can.

La Posada in Winslow, Dave.

I ain't been in quite a while but it was a thing when I did visit. I'd love to hear an update.

Was at the La Posada in 2014 on our cross country tour to SEMA in Las Vegas. Loved it ! We stopped at private auto collections and automotive museums on the way out.

All I can offer is a good washing and the clay bar treatment.  Followed by a good pastewax, like Maguires, Mothers, etc.  Works for me.  As to the scratch?  Don't have a good idea.

I ran a call today at the high-end detailer in Peoria. He had color corrected and put a ceramic coating on a 2 year old Hellcat, and was prepping it for a clear bra that would cover the entire hood and both front fenders.

I've seen the work of guys who called themselves "detailers" before. It's generally what you would do yourself, if you had the time to really go over your own car with some nice over-the-counter products. This was nothing at all like that.

Detroit factory paint is typically pretty bad-- orange peeled, thin spots, etc. Somehow, this Hellcat looked like it had stepped out of the paint booth at a custom paint shop. It was magnificent. It was a freaking Dodge, and it looked like Ferrari paint.

The price? About 2 grand, all in. It's way out of my league, but it shows me that anything is possible if a guy knows what he's doing. The guys laying on Mothers and Maguirers in their garage are getting about $200 for the full meal deal, which is fine if a guy has no issues with paint. It's something to think about for people (like me), who just hate to care for their paint, but like to have a nice finish.

For the truly choosy, there's ceramic man. It's nice to know he's out there, if I ever come into some big money.

edsnova posted:

La Posada in Winslow, Dave.

I ain't been in quite a while but it was a thing when I did visit. I'd love to hear an update.

 

Wow...quite the place, Ed. I'd sure give it a go if Winslow is on the list again. thanks.

This pic was from 2012.  Where exactly the hell is the time going, eh ? 

I'm certainly considering ceramic on the Coupe.  I've seen it on some cars locally and it's spectacular.

$2,000 for ceramic...what?

That's half a decent paint job these days. You missing a zero?

I looked at paint protection film (PPF like 3M film) for the low front of my Miata.  $3-5k easily.  I agree crazy prices to protect something that one expects to be chipped.  Perhaps if it was a $100k car I might consider it but not for a $30-40k car. 

edsnova posted:

$2,000 for ceramic...what?

That's half a decent paint job these days. You missing a zero?

The color correction and ceramic was $1000. The clear bra for the front half of a very large car was the other $1000. I wouldn’t want to pay that, but in the world we inhabit, it’s certainly not on the high end of normal. 

Lane Anderson posted:

I'm certainly considering ceramic on the Coupe.  I've seen it on some cars locally and it's spectacular.

Xpel film for the whole front end or even partial would be the best IMo

or do the whole car

Stan Galat posted:

edsnova posted:

$2,000 for ceramic...what?

That's half a decent paint job these days. You missing a zero?

The color correction and ceramic was $1000. The clear bra for the front half of a very large car was the other $1000. I wouldn’t want to pay that, but in the world we inhabit, it’s certainly not on the high end of normal. 

Stan is right. I had my 458 Italia clear bra'd -- the whole nose of the car (front quarters, hood, bumper and rear-view mirrors) -- and paid $2500. Granted, the guy who did my car did the first 3 LaFerraris imported into the US, but it isn't cheap! Well worth it, however. One can drive their car without worry of ruining their paint job. Suntek Ultra, which I used, is self leveling -- if you scratch it, put it in the sun and the scratches will disappear. Amazing stuff. 

Anand

I have a clear bra on my BMW as it is a necessity in a beach town (sand), undergoing a building boom (dump truck debris), that is also a major shipping port (general truck crap), in a state too cheap to sweep the roads (SC).  I almost certainly will do that on the Coupe.  The ceramic is a "better way to wax" in my view, but it doesn't provide much, if any, chip protection.

Am I the only one that thinks the clear wrap is way overpriced? After all, it is just a piece of plastic that is squeegeed on. Looks like another mountain to conquer.

RacerX posted:

Am I the only one that thinks the clear wrap is way overpriced? After all, it is just a piece of plastic that is squeegeed on. Looks like another mountain to conquer.

I don't know if you're the only one, but there's at least 1 guy that doesn't think it's way overpriced (me). It's certainly expensive, but I think after buying the material and giving it a try, the going rate would seem like a value.

The material itself has to be thick enough to protect against rock-chips, flexible enough to conform to the curves of the car, clear enough not to distort the color, and removable in the event that it needs changed. The material itself is hardly Saran-Wrap.

Then, there's what it takes to install it. I can't ever get a 2" square sticker to go on my windshield without fighting bubbles for 20 minutes. I can't imagine doing the entire front half of a big car.

$1000 seems like a price that's fair. Lots of people pay that much to get it done, so it must be about right.

I know it's saved me more than that in paint repair, even though I've had to replace it due to age.

Got the itch today ( never had it like this before ) and bought a selection of Meguiar's products to experiment with on the Roadster. Still need to pick up the Quick Detailer. Will do a before and after shot tomorrow starting with a small place, the rear deck lid. Never too late to learn, eh ?  ( This just ain't a Stroud - like approach at all ) . 

@David Stroud IM Roadster D - atta boy! Yes. You're going to need an applicator but other than that you should be fine.  You'll love the way it looks. Meguiars makes a good product.  Have fun!

Ted

Stan Galat posted:

 

...Then, there's what it takes to install it. I can't ever get a 2" square sticker to go on my windshield without fighting bubbles for 20 minutes. I can't imagine doing the entire front half of a big car...

I think @MusbJim gave the example, a while back, of those do-it-yourself window tinting films. Ever see one of those that didn't scream 'look how much I saved by doing it myself' ?

Me, I can't get one of those screen protectors stuck onto my phone without seven bubbles and one edge that keeps curling up.

TRP posted:

@David Stroud IM Roadster D - atta boy! Yes. You're going to need an applicator but other than that you should be fine.  You'll love the way it looks. Meguiars makes a good product.  Have fun!

Ted

Thanks, Ted. Could you recommend an applicator ? I've got a largish...like 10" Simonize orbital machine but I see others using something smaller like 5 and 6" and there's a lot of small corners etc. on these cars. There are drill attach machines available and also smaller orbital units. 

Random orbital polishers are the best in my opinion... have fun 

 Here is a canadian link 

https://www.autoobsessed.com/s...amp;q=Random+orbital

Griot’s Garage has a cordless buffer that I love.  It’s light, there’s no cord to mess with, and you can easily do a Speedster on one charge.  I bought an extra battery just in case.  That said, a really good wax like P21S or Griot’s carnuba doesn’t require a buffer.

Good idea, Dave.  Practise on your car, and I'll bring mine around next Spring...

Sacto Mitch posted:

 

Stan Galat posted:

 

...Then, there's what it takes to install it. I can't ever get a 2" square sticker to go on my windshield without fighting bubbles for 20 minutes. I can't imagine doing the entire front half of a big car...

 

I think @MusbJim gave the example, a while back, of those do-it-yourself window tinting films. Ever see one of those that didn't scream 'look how much I saved by doing it myself' ?

Me, I can't get one of those screen protectors stuck onto my phone without seven bubbles and one edge that keeps curling up.

 

Ok, Mitch, I laughed out loud at that!

David Stroud posted:

TRP posted:

@David Stroud IM Roadster D - atta boy! Yes. You're going to need an applicator but other than that you should be fine.  You'll love the way it looks. Meguiars makes a good product.  Have fun!

Ted

Thanks, Ted. Could you recommend an applicator ? I've got a largish...like 10" Simonize orbital machine but I see others using something smaller like 5 and 6" and there's a lot of small corners etc. on these cars. There are drill attach machines available and also smaller orbital units. 

I thought you'd never ask! I have a few different ones.

Stay away from anything by Dewalt, Makita, or Porter Cable.   They can EASILY burn the paint. 

https://www.chemicalguys.com/P...lisher_Kits_s/24.htm

I use the 5.5" version for the majority of my car. I  also have the 3" version for the tight areas. 

https://www.chemicalguys.com/T...g_Kit_p/buf_209x.htm

That 5.5 will do you well.  You could use a standard foam applicator if the paint isn't in bad shape.  Just takes more elbow grease.  If you'd like, shoot me a PM and I'll send on one of mine to use. Ship it back when you're done.

Ted

TRP posted:

David Stroud posted:

TRP posted:

@David Stroud IM Roadster D - atta boy! Yes. You're going to need an applicator but other than that you should be fine.  You'll love the way it looks. Meguiars makes a good product.  Have fun!

Ted

Thanks, Ted. Could you recommend an applicator ? I've got a largish...like 10" Simonize orbital machine but I see others using something smaller like 5 and 6" and there's a lot of small corners etc. on these cars. There are drill attach machines available and also smaller orbital units. 

I thought you'd never ask! I have a few different ones.

Stay away from anything by Dewalt, Makita, or Porter Cable.   They can EASILY burn the paint. 

https://www.chemicalguys.com/P...lisher_Kits_s/24.htm

I use the 5.5" version for the majority of my car. I  also have the 3" version for the tight areas. 

https://www.chemicalguys.com/T...g_Kit_p/buf_209x.htm

That 5.5 will do you well.  You could use a standard foam applicator if the paint isn't in bad shape.  Just takes more elbow grease.  If you'd like, shoot me a PM and I'll send on one of mine to use. Ship it back when you're done.

Ted

Very nice offer Ted, but I'll grab one for myself up here. Thanks for the guidance. 

Dave, if these scratches are not down to the primer you could probably carefully wet sand the paint level across them, then polish.  I don't know if you have bought a polisher yet, but Canadian Tire has had a Simonize 7" polisher on sale several times this year for $69.00 regularly $119.00; don't know how they can sell it so cheap! It's a variable speed 800-3000 RPM. 11AMP motor. Bought one myself this year and I love it. I wet sanded my car starting with 600 grit then 800 working up through Ultrafine to Microfine paper. Then used 3M rubbing compound 36060 and then 3M finishing compound 05928. My speedster is a CMC that still has the original gel coat which had a lot of texture to it. I had to start with 600 because the gel coat is so hard. In your case 800 or 1000 grit would be a safe starting point. 

A polisher is something to be veeeeerry cautious with.  A buffer (random orbital). Will NOT burn the paint.  Two different devices.