I was realizing that my speedster doesnt have any tin in the engine bay? Should we run tin?
I have 1915 w/ dual 44's.
Does someone make custom tin to bolt in? Or is it a custom install on each car?
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I was realizing that my speedster doesnt have any tin in the engine bay? Should we run tin?
I have 1915 w/ dual 44's.
Does someone make custom tin to bolt in? Or is it a custom install on each car?
I have 1915 w/ dual 44's.
Does someone make custom tin to bolt in? Or is it a custom install on each car?
Cory, all depends on how your car will be driven and if your engine comp. will be sealed
(or not). I've seen dune buggies with the engines hanging out in the flow with no trouble or surrounding tin. The idea of the engine tin is to keep the cooler/fresher air on the top of
the motor and exhaust the heated air below the engine and out into the airflow. If you were to sit in traffic the hot air just rises back up and gets recirculated. In a dune buggy or open car it's not as important.
(or not). I've seen dune buggies with the engines hanging out in the flow with no trouble or surrounding tin. The idea of the engine tin is to keep the cooler/fresher air on the top of
the motor and exhaust the heated air below the engine and out into the airflow. If you were to sit in traffic the hot air just rises back up and gets recirculated. In a dune buggy or open car it's not as important.
Gosh Cory,
YES! The cooling tin is most important. Make a cardboard template of what you need to fill the gap between the body and engine tin, transfer it to some aluminum and cut it out, pick up one of the foam after-market "gaskets" that they sell for the late model VW Bus and you should be all set.
The high density foam gasket is a real life-saver and works as a solution for a LOT of problems where a metal to moving object seal is needed.
You could probably even hit one of the Home Depot-type stores for the foam, I just had the Bus gaskets on hand and love the way that they fit.
Luck,
TC
YES! The cooling tin is most important. Make a cardboard template of what you need to fill the gap between the body and engine tin, transfer it to some aluminum and cut it out, pick up one of the foam after-market "gaskets" that they sell for the late model VW Bus and you should be all set.
The high density foam gasket is a real life-saver and works as a solution for a LOT of problems where a metal to moving object seal is needed.
You could probably even hit one of the Home Depot-type stores for the foam, I just had the Bus gaskets on hand and love the way that they fit.
Luck,
TC
As TC says; also make sure you first get the front and rear engine tins and then try to fill any left over gaps in the body panels with fiberglass, aluminum or the material you choose. The Bus seal is a well known and ingenious solution used by Vintage Speedsters and other pro builders.
Template examples:
Attachments
Images (3)
Check out the CMC (or FF) build manuals in the library. The kit came with fiberglass pieces to use as the heat shield (although aluminium works equally well). In latest CMC one see page V-11 Figure 9 -
https://www.speedsterowners.com/library/cmcmanual2/images/cmc59.jpg
Also there is a 1/2 moon piece that gets cut out of the rear seat firewall area to allow for air to be sucked in from over the transmission in to the fan area (don't know page number for those directions) -- that front (clutch area does not get closed off --- it the heat from the exhaust headers and the exhust muffler that you don't want to recirculate).
https://www.speedsterowners.com/library/cmcmanual2/images/cmc59.jpg
Also there is a 1/2 moon piece that gets cut out of the rear seat firewall area to allow for air to be sucked in from over the transmission in to the fan area (don't know page number for those directions) -- that front (clutch area does not get closed off --- it the heat from the exhaust headers and the exhust muffler that you don't want to recirculate).
You've got a point there Wolf; although VS manufactures their car with the front tin. Gene Berg recommended fabricating a 12" by 1" scoop and locating it at the torsion bar area (low pressure area where cool air comes in), connecting it to a 2" or 3" hose and connecting that to a hole in the front tin on the right side (obviously not the left since you've got the doghouse exhaust from the oil cooler on that side). His reasoning was that the transaxle would get hot so any air that would come in contact with it before getting into the engine compartment would get warm.