Doghouse oil cooler rupture is now repaired BUT.....

Glad to hear it's all back together, Bruce. Bummer you had to take it out and do the clutch, though. I'll be waiting for your manometer results with baited breath (btw; I tested positive). Al

Thanks Al....I will.....Bruce

I do this as well. Once you look at all 4, you'll wonder why everybody doesn't. It's almost magical. I know exactly which idle jet is starting to plug, etc. just by watching temps.

EGTs for each cylinder (like the aircraft guys do) would be cool as well, but I've got nowhere to put them without making it look like a Piper Cub in the cabin, although that's a look that might not be so bad.

Good luck!

Great to hear your Speedster is back on the road, Bruce! I'm sure the tech savvy guys will be interested hearing about your results. Hope our paths cross soon again at another SOC event. 

This gauge looks cool, but not cheap.

http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/c...ges/aero4cht12mm.php

I keep kicking around the idea of an app for my phone to monitor Head temps. Couple of head temp sending units, a Raspberry Pi Arduino unit, and some code. Should be possible.  I just need the time to figure it all out.

The goal would be to then make an app that reads the output from the sending unit. Read it right off the phone without the need of a bunch of extra gauges.

Ted

Perhaps get that app for your new pair of Google Glasses and you can watch your engine temps in your glasses as you terrorize the roadways (and raccoons)! 

Ted...Not a bad idea! My plan was to use a rotary switch from radio shack and connect all 4 senders to that and then onto one CHT gauge on the dash. I checked with Dakota Instruments and they said it would work. I was a little leery about doing this because these "senders" are thermocouple wires and I thought that the total wire length was critical but according to them they are not.......Bruce

The length isn't a functional issue. It'll work the same whether it is 6 inches or 100 feet. Long runs may have issues with interference that may require some shielding like any other sensor wire, but I really don't think you need to even worry about that.

I don't recommend trying to alter the probe end. The two thermocouple wires are welded or specially crimped together there to create the "hot" junction. If that joint isn't good and solid, your readings may be off or it won't work at all.

The other end could be altered for length. However, wherever the special thermocouple wires connect to standard copper wire or contacts, that is the location of your "cold" junction. As your switch is in the dash this ok since you would be reading the temp difference between the cylinder head and the dash. If your thermocouple was only 1 foot long, and you ran copper wires from the end of the thermocouple to the switch, the "cold" junction would be in the high temp engine bay and your gauge could read 50-150 degrees colder. This is were a length argument might come into play. They make extension cables of thermocouple wire just for this purpose.

Outside of expensive temperature compensating gauges, the gauge will be calibrated assuming the "cold" junction is 70* F. So ambient temperature will alter the gauge reading. Cold -> higher reading, hot -> lower reading. But at least this is linear so if for example it's 50* F outside, the gauge will read 20* high. Just something to be aware of.

This is what I really dig about this site! I learn something new every time I visit this site. Thanks for that tech tip, Justin!

TED...Thanks again ! I appreciate your confirmation that I'm on the right track. Sometimes a little knowledge can get you in trouble so I've learned to ask questions just to make sure I'm on-track. I'm pretty excited about getting some "dial-up diagnostics on my Dash....Again....Thanks.....Bruce