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Door Jam in Rear - Large Gap

FM Former Member
Ok... here goes my latest problem.

I have installed the doors in the frame after mounting to the chassis. The chassis install worked with no problems and the alignment of the rear VW bolts and Front worked perfectly.

Now my problem...

The doors fit perfectly in the front, bottom and top. Level and the gap is perfect. The issue is the top rear gap. On the passenger side it is 1/2 inch and the drivers side is 3/4 of an inch gap at the top. The bottom fits perfectly but the top is out of alignment.

I have lossened up the VW bolts in the rear and it has not moved. Any ideas or has anyone had this problem.

Some Ideas...

-- The body frame is pop-riveted to the fiberglass shell on each side of the car. The pop-rivets attach the fiberglass to the frame. Is this the only attachment for the rear? Is it possible to drill out the poprivets, jack up the body off of the frame, re-poprivet the frame?

-- Is it possible to have it sag due to sitting for 18 years in the garage. Remember this was junked, unbuilt, when I got it on Oct 1.

-- How about heating the frame at the rear door (about 8 inches back from upright) and jacking from there instead of the poprivet idea.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as always.

Thanks,
Brian
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FM Former Member
Ok... here goes my latest problem.

I have installed the doors in the frame after mounting to the chassis. The chassis install worked with no problems and the alignment of the rear VW bolts and Front worked perfectly.

Now my problem...

The doors fit perfectly in the front, bottom and top. Level and the gap is perfect. The issue is the top rear gap. On the passenger side it is 1/2 inch and the drivers side is 3/4 of an inch gap at the top. The bottom fits perfectly but the top is out of alignment.

I have lossened up the VW bolts in the rear and it has not moved. Any ideas or has anyone had this problem.

Some Ideas...

-- The body frame is pop-riveted to the fiberglass shell on each side of the car. The pop-rivets attach the fiberglass to the frame. Is this the only attachment for the rear? Is it possible to drill out the poprivets, jack up the body off of the frame, re-poprivet the frame?

-- Is it possible to have it sag due to sitting for 18 years in the garage. Remember this was junked, unbuilt, when I got it on Oct 1.

-- How about heating the frame at the rear door (about 8 inches back from upright) and jacking from there instead of the poprivet idea.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as always.

Thanks,
Brian
East Coast BruceEast Coast BruceMaryland
Brian,

I had the same problem with my CMC. An assembler I spoke with when I was building my car a few years back suggested the first option on your list - drill out the rivets, jack up the body . This should close the gap but be careful because this could cause a crack in the fiberglass at the lower part of the body in front of the rear wheel well, reason is because you will be bending/stretching it a bit there. After I was finished with this adjustment I laid a piece of angle iron about a foot long on top of both sides of the rear frame and drilled/screwed several bolts down through the frame and out through the supporting fiberglass. The reason for this additional support was because the few rivets did not seem sufficient support.

I hope this helps. Good luck.
FM Former Member
If the gap is at the top of the back of the door, then your frame to body arch is bowed up in the middle of the car. Yes, wedging the rear quarter of the body up would close that gap at the rear. Have you tried splitting the difference with the adjustments? Another alternative is just to consider adding a little more door skin to the back edge of the door. This would require fiberglass work. However, you can buy fiberglass mat or even a round bead (rope) at a boat store. resin that in and grind it to fit. Then reresin it to seal it and Paint the whole car.

(Message Edited 2/25/2003 3:42:49 PM)
B Bill356
Brian, before you drill out those rivets check the two rear frame mounts. These are the ones that use the larger Volkswagen bolts thru the frame tabs to the rear Volkswagen chasis. Loosen them up and see if your fit is better. Once the body is set onto the frame, these should be shimmed (large washers work)to fit, rather then drawn down. One side of mine needed three large washers and had it simply been drawned down by tightening the bolts, my door would not have fit right. Hope this helps. If you have questions feel free to write.

Bill Hines.
FM Former Member
I had the same problem. the door gap just gets wider from the bottom of the door towards the top. I think they came out of the mold that way. This is one of the reasons I wasn't very kind in describing my car in the registry. Look to see if the rear clip seems to droop in the back (the rear where the bumper bolts on will sit lower than the rocker panel edge).
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