I've used Bituthene membrane roofing. Comes in various thicknesses (2000,3000,4000). Way cheaper than sound matting which appears to be the same material. Be warned, once you peel off the back and stick it, it will not move. There is no repositioning it.  The only other problem is getting a small amount of it.  It is usually sold in huge rolls, but the roofing supply stores have been able to cut me 10 feet.

The only advantage to doing the doors is that it gives them a nicer "thunk" sound when closed.  Sound isn't going to be blocked with an open top or side curtains.

-=theron

We are definetely looking for the Thunk sound  

I used something similar to what Theron used. I also added about 2-3 lbs of speaker batting material inside each of the doors as well.

The doors on my new Spyder "thunk" nicely. On the old car, they were very light, and you needed to keep your hand on them when you shut them, or the latch would bounce off the pin and not latch.

I believe the doors are made of thicker glass now, plus the inside has truck bedliner material on it. MUCH better.

You might try that, or the roof stuff, that works too.

I took the “el Cheapo” route on my car as I did all of the work on it years before I ever discovered this group.  And what did el Señor del Cheapo use?

Shop floor mat material from Home Depot.  It is a little over 3/8” thick, smooth on one side and textured on the other, made of closed cell foam and easily cut to any shape you need with a utility knife.  I put it almost everywhere - under the carpet, under the rear seat, inside the doors, everywhere.  

I glued it in with 3M upholstery adhesive or contact cement, depending on horizontal or vertical surfaces, but it goes in well and works great.  Doors close with a definite “thunk” and road noise is very low (although the wind noise is still there).

Thanks I will investigate those.

I used Dynamat when I first got the Speedster. I have a nice thunk sound and more importantly the Stereo sounds a hell of a lot better. I have plans to replace the carpet in the future and will likely do the entire interior. 

Ray,it's such a small area, just use Dynamat. 

la-562960679448&wl5=9021552&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=125211413&wl11=online&wl12=847896371&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjwssD0BRBIEiwA-JP5rESdYJWeppA0-YZjwUXxSpUioHeGRR35ZfqrJ3ISr_t8zrTDqggOpxoCiUoQAvD_BwE" target="_blank">https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dyn...DqggOpxoCiUoQAvD_BwE

I like roadkill brand, 

I used B-Quiet, which is a cheaper substitute for Dynamat.  The door sounded much more solid, but it’ll never have that heavy “thunk!” because it’s just too light.

Lane Anderson posted:

I used B-Quiet, which is a cheaper substitute for Dynamat.  The door sounded much more solid, but it’ll never have that heavy “thunk!” because it’s just too light.

Back when I upgraded the carpet in my VS, I coated my floor with truck bed liner for waterproofing then applied real Dynamat  to the floors inside the doors, all in the front trunk area and everywhere else carpet would go, and closing my door does have that million dollar "Thunk".  I highly recommend Dynamat.  If I were having a car built I would speck Dynamat so it goes in as the car is being built.  Great stuff.  Didn't know about B-Quiet or the other one that Gordon has mentioned. If I had it to do again I'd look at all possible choices because Dynamat is quite expensive.  

If you are doing a whole car, Xmat from Eastwood products is a little cheaper.  I'm pretty sure that is the material going in my Alfa. 

https://www.eastwood.com/xmat-...ines-34-8-sq-ft.html

I used some of the methods and product from this website (not afiiliated) on a few of my vehicles. There is some pretty good theory on the site as it relates to loud deadening in a vehicle.

www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

Thanks @vegas356 that site has a lot of information that goes beyond what you normally see on theory of sound proofing. 

IaM-Ray posted:

Thanks @vegas356 that site has a lot of information that goes beyond what you normally see on theory of sound proofing. 

My pleasure. Agreed, it does provide a lot of theory. Best of luck

Frank

Frankie Valley, would have done the whole door skin, see what I did there  but the theory from this guy is you only really need to do 25% of the outside skin of the door. 

Plus what he does on the inner panel, to get good deadening.

yellow ... 

"This is what CLD Tile™ placement would look like if the outr door skin was trans[partent and the CLD Tiles™ were yellow. The black areas are steel structures inside the door. The blue patch is the only stock vibration damper on the outer door skin. This is plenty to take the sheet metal from steel drum to non-resonant and solid."

Here is quote from the site Frankie gave us... There is hope for us  

Convertible Considerations

FYI, by engine and exhaust noise, what he really means is intake noise. Especially those of us with 4 throats and aggressive cam profiles.

@IaM-Ray  I see what you did there I forget now exactly how I did the inside of my doors,  I have the panels on right now (not sure why, the rest of the interior is out.) The doors definitely have that luxury car "clunk" when closed. 

I found a piece of extra scrap that I bought from that website :

Well I can now update on the door insulation.

FYI,  I could not seem to easily get any of the standard sound stuff with COVID delivery in 100 days but was able to get Buzzmat from a local speedshop who have been using it for years with good results, so I decided to use it.  I tried my best on the passenger door and then got the drivers side done is half the time.  

Thanks to @vegas356 for the link to that site, as it encouraged me to not go crazy and I essentially did the outside door panel as much as I could apply securely.  

I think it will do for my purpose considering I have no speakers in the door and the doors were the last things uninsulated.

Man that stuff is sticky.