Does anyone know where I can get, or how I can make, the little ferrules/tubes that go into the door tops for the side curtains? I lost 3 of them and I can't finish my side curtain project until I get those installed. Thanks
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Does anyone know where I can get, or how I can make, the little ferrules/tubes that go into the door tops for the side curtains? I lost 3 of them and I can't finish my side curtain project until I get those installed. Thanks
Vintage has them
I saw a box of them in Kirk's shop last week.
I bought the chrome pieces that attach to the side curtains that slip into the furrels that you are talking about.
Here is the number 562-402-4334
I saw a box of them in Kirk's shop last week.
I bought the chrome pieces that attach to the side curtains that slip into the furrels that you are talking about.
Here is the number 562-402-4334
OR!!! Go to the hardware store and buy some copper tubbing Im guessing 1/4 inch and flair one end and the ping it flat , then cut to correct lenth and make all you want.
Bathroom Faucet-to-wall-valve connector tubes. The stiff versions, not the flexible, braided ones.
Already chromed and flared. I think you need 5/16" ID versions.
Buy two - they're only flared on one end.
Home Depot or Lowe's - cheap, too.
Already chromed and flared. I think you need 5/16" ID versions.
Buy two - they're only flared on one end.
Home Depot or Lowe's - cheap, too.
Thanks Gordon! Worked like a charm.
Now on to the new windows. I was taking one apart today and broke a piece but nothing that can't be replaced. Anyway, what plex-type material do you guys use? I was going to get some Lexan but all the stuff at HD and Lowes is too thin. The only stuff that comes thick enough to now be super flimsy is the acrylic crap, is that good enough?
Now on to the new windows. I was taking one apart today and broke a piece but nothing that can't be replaced. Anyway, what plex-type material do you guys use? I was going to get some Lexan but all the stuff at HD and Lowes is too thin. The only stuff that comes thick enough to now be super flimsy is the acrylic crap, is that good enough?
Yes, the stuff at Home Depot is a little less than 1/8" thick.
I went to a window (glass) place and bought a large sheet of 1/8" acrylic. It works OK, especially with the rubber gaskets I have, but I'm thinking seriously of going thicker on the next go-around. 3/16" to 1/4" (Wild Bill uses 1/4" on his and it seems OK).
The thicker acrylic will flex less outward when you pass or get passed by really big trucks at high speeds.
Take a look at my convertible top article http://speedstershop.com/viewtopic.php?t=381 for a look at how I re-shaped the side windows to fit better. Watch for the tab I added to the leading edge to keep them from popping out at high speed. I'm adding some shrink tube to the tab to prevent it from marring the windshield frame. other than that, they work well (and guide the window inside of the windshield frame automatically when closing the door).
gn
I went to a window (glass) place and bought a large sheet of 1/8" acrylic. It works OK, especially with the rubber gaskets I have, but I'm thinking seriously of going thicker on the next go-around. 3/16" to 1/4" (Wild Bill uses 1/4" on his and it seems OK).
The thicker acrylic will flex less outward when you pass or get passed by really big trucks at high speeds.
Take a look at my convertible top article http://speedstershop.com/viewtopic.php?t=381 for a look at how I re-shaped the side windows to fit better. Watch for the tab I added to the leading edge to keep them from popping out at high speed. I'm adding some shrink tube to the tab to prevent it from marring the windshield frame. other than that, they work well (and guide the window inside of the windshield frame automatically when closing the door).
gn
See my post for ferrules under classified. ~Alan
Lexan is LOTS stronger than plexi or any type of acrylic. Don't know about the "yellowing" aspects of it under prolonged UV exposure, that would be something else on which to do a little Google research.
For overall strength, for banging around in a trunk or clamping forces of fasteners, Lexan would be my first choice. Successfully used it on headlight covers on an 86 Mustang GT to smooth out the front body lines, among other projects.
I've bought Lexan a a local plastics supply house. One advantage (their are damn few) of living in a city of 1.3 million people I suppose.
For overall strength, for banging around in a trunk or clamping forces of fasteners, Lexan would be my first choice. Successfully used it on headlight covers on an 86 Mustang GT to smooth out the front body lines, among other projects.
I've bought Lexan a a local plastics supply house. One advantage (their are damn few) of living in a city of 1.3 million people I suppose.
HIJACK- Headlight covers on new cars - I sanded mine (My daily driver) with a headlight lexan cleaner kit (Permatex) and WOW, I think it's cleaner than when the car was new. I can actually see the part number through the Lexan.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/specialized_maintenance_repair/auto_glass_lens_repair/auto_Permatex_Headlight_Lens_Restoration_Kit_1.htm
Was a little pricey for what it is actually, 1000 grit, 1500 grit, 2000 grit and 2500 grit and this cleaner liquid (small bottle) but wow does it work.
END OF HIJACK
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/specialized_maintenance_repair/auto_glass_lens_repair/auto_Permatex_Headlight_Lens_Restoration_Kit_1.htm
Was a little pricey for what it is actually, 1000 grit, 1500 grit, 2000 grit and 2500 grit and this cleaner liquid (small bottle) but wow does it work.
END OF HIJACK
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