Dragging Clutch

I'll re-post this on my local 356 email list and see what we get.  I can't help.

I'm sure you have already thought about this, but the clutch may have been dragging all along, therefore causing the need for replacement.  Could there be a problem with the clutch fork?  Too little throw?  Worn bushing?  I don't know about 356 transaxles, but on a VW transaxle there are different length operating levers for the fork.  Maybe you're not getting enough travel from the fork to release the clutch?   Obviously parts were interchanged on this car, so it could be a problem that was introduced with a wrong part at some point.  Just a thought.

Owner claims it never dragged before. There's no adjustment for fork travel on a 356.       

Bushings seem good. Clutch an disc are new, T.O. Brg. good. I adjusted the clutch all

the way out with no free play, and it still drags. Took the motor back out, measured 

the flywheel for all its different functions, and everything checks out. The only way

I can get in gear without grinding is to shim out the pressure plate off the flywheel.

I've put a lot of clutches in 356's and VW, and have never seen anything like this!

Gordon, you may have the solution, maybe someone on the 356 site can help.

Here's what I got back:

Gordon,
I have shimmed the pressure plate before and it solved my problem but later repaired it correctly. In my case the pressure plate I got was not correct and the stock depth (25mm or 24mm) wasn’t enough for the Chinese part I was using. This was on a 180mm flywheel. My guess is that he’s got a VW pressure plate which requires more depth. I should know better but cutting corners seldom works.
Have him measure everything, the solution should become apparent.

And:

I had a very similar problem with my clutch when I replaced it several years ago. All the parts were new and the flywheel was resurfaced correctly. Everything measured correct, however, I could not get the clutch to fully disengage no matter how much I adjusted it. After taking the engine out I inspected the parts. Fortunately I had an old disk and pressure plate to compare with the new ones. I realized that the hub on the pressure plate had 3 rivet heads that were different on the new disk. The old ones were low and round while the new ones were higher and squared off causing them to make contact with the pressure plate. That caused enough drag to prevent the disk from fully releasing. I ground the rivet heads down and the problem was fixed. Then I had to readjust everything back to the right settings.

I hope this helps.
Ed

Thanks Ed, 

The comment about the improper disc makes sense. I'll take a look

tomorrow. I'm 64 years old, and the thought of having to pull this motor out

again for the third time, is affecting my sleep.

Also, this car should have a 200mm set up. Someone went cheap and

chose a 180. I am looking for a good used 200 mm flywheel, clutch, disc

and T.O. Brg. I checked on eBay and couldn't find anything. Any ideas?

Turns out it was the disc. I made the wrong assumption that a new disc 

would be fine. I shimmed the pressure plate a little more and it didn't

solve the problem. After I closed my shop, and ignored the phone, I went back

and took the motor out again. After staring at all the parts again, I noticed a 

wear mark on the new disc. I looked at the wear mark, and figured the disc

was warped. It's sad when you can trust a new Sachs part.

Yeah...Believe it or not, I got a couple of Sachs bearings from New England Industrial Automation (used to be TEK Bearing) a while back.  Nothing exotic about them.  The box they came in said "Made in Sweden" and the parts were stamped "Taiwan".

Go figure.

Factory parts are expensive, but if you look at all the time and aggravation with

the other stuff, it makes the price difference seem fine.