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I bought this CMC flared a month ago, deciding to go with a street rod look.

Delete stock horn grills/park lights, shaved door handles and deck lid grill. I've configured alternative engine bay cooling w/ the top paper clip style grill, off set license plate & engine bay air vents. Shaved fiberglass dash brow. Gray faced gauges. '39 Ford flat LED taillights ..they look similar to the speedster tail lights  Frenched license plate.

Entirely blacked out body with Ridler's polished aluminum rims, lowered Stay Fast top, dark grey suede interior with a modern version of a banjo steering wheel. Boxster pedal covers, custom shifter.... Gets GM Onyx black tri-stage paint this week.

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Last edited by Alan Merklin
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Thanks for the compliments this is a fun build similar to Syl Mathis's " Candy"  I did a number of years ago, however few like items are in place.

Recalling that the actual motor cooling is via the fan shroud forcing clean cool air over the cylinder heads.... which is still intact.

To address the the deleted deck lid grill cooling issue I am opening the air intake gap 1.5" between the forward motor tin and firewall, opened up the 6.5 " fan intake half round opening in the firewall and openings in the L&R vertical inner panels..air exits via the custom "paper clip" body horizontal grill and cut out behind the license plate.....(the total sq.in. measurement is larger than the deck lid grill) That, along with properly sealed motor tins, a good "H"" seal to isolate the radiant header heat and a Mesa remote fan/oil cooler will suffice. 

Last edited by Alan Merklin

It's painted ....Finally after many delays and unusual challenges correcting the CMC butt sag, both doors and hood fitment and previously mentioned upgrades, we got it right and painted GM Onyx Black last night.

Color sanding and buffing tomorrow pm and post some pics this weekend.

Have 8 hours of "dirt work" on Friday to include shifter bushing & coupler, replace trans mounts, rag joint, shocks, pedals & cables, open engine bay walls for additional cooling, seal body to pan-chassis. Most parts are here so I'll begin reassembly this weekend.

Last edited by Alan Merklin
It was a "Wizard of Rods" body, hood and running boards. Chris Boyle of WofR, bought the rights to sell the BGW body kits in England.
 
 
A friend and I both built panel vans. Not trying to hijack the thread, just letting it be known that holes in the inner fenders should do the cooling job without the regular intake being operative.
 
Originally Posted by Alan Merklin - Drclock. Chambersburg PA:

Similar to the "Vandetta" that was mfg'd and sold as a kit in New Jersey back in the 70's

 

Last edited by MT-ED

Yes I know that's how it works, but the fan has to get it's fresh air from somewhere above the cooling tin as the hot air off the heads and barrels gets blown out under the car. Holes in the inner fenders aren't logically a good idea, but in all the miles I did with the Beetle Panel, I never had any issues with water intrusion even in heavy rain or snow. Works well as an air ingress point.

That'll do it! Your whole description of this rebuild and modification sounds like there's a fabulous little Outlaw in gestation. Love the idea of the Ford Tear-drops. My personal "concept" I would love to build would have regular bee-hive lights frenched in so they point straight back. I'll probably offend purists by saying that I've always thought that stock fitment Bee-hives look like an afterthought because they sit at odd angles. The rear lights on my Beetle Panel were New Old Stock early Morris Minor 1000 tailights. I mounted them on a part recessed, part elevated oval plinth so they pointed straight back. They would have been splayed otherwise. It's all in the details.
 
 
Originally Posted by Alan Merklin - Drclock. Chambersburg PA:

intake -fresh air is introduced from the 8 inch hole in the firewall i.e. the fan pulls the cooler air from top of the trans and surrounding area

 

Last edited by MT-ED

I have it back from paint for a week or so now and in my shop.

90% wired, gauges, switches, fuse block, most of wiring, wiper motor. fuel tank, column, shocks, transmission mounts, axles, shift rod bushing, coupler,  LED taillights are in and pan to body is sealed. Just got the doors back from paint this evening.

 

 Wait till Christmas, it will be buffed and more photogenic... ~Alan

Last edited by Alan Merklin
Indeed.....and it was my van. Just threw it in there as a proven example of supplying cooling air via alternate apertures. Can't wait to see pics of this finished car. It sounds awesome.
 
Originally Posted by frazerk1:

OK, OK, enough about the way-cool panel van -- that's a new one on me.  What I want here is a picture of #36.  C'mon Alan, your adoring public awaits . . .

 

Last edited by MT-ED
Originally Posted by Alan Merklin - Drclock. Chambersburg PA:

However,  a few imperfections remain (frig'n black) that are visible so my paint guy will take it back to his shop on Sunday for a redo. 

Even though it is undoubtedly the best looking color on most any car it is so d... hard to keep it or make it look good. One of our car club members has an all original 'Henry' full-fenderd '32 roadster street rod, it went back to paint 10x before he deemed it ok(he is a bit anal though...LOL...will have to tells a couple of stories about ol' Jim...lol)

 

Good luck! 

Woe is me....A few days after final color sanding and buffing,I started to notice some areas that went to a slightly dull blotchy appearance, tried to rebuff those areas but it came right back.  Seems that there was not enough hardener used . Frustration is not the word-s....So back apart i.e doors hood deck lid off and gauges removed and to the body shop where it was sanded, allowed to sit and breath for 6 days then re-shot with Silken's base coat clear coat..that did the trick.  I am at home tomorrow,  there will be pics !

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