Drclock's Project # 36

Thats kewl too.  It will give it that street rod look.

Love the grill above the engine cover area.  

That might finally cure the air starvation problems most of us have.

The grill screen came from Lowe's in the gutter section, it's a 36" pc. that is heavy gauge and comes powder coated black for under $4.00

Nice wheels. It will look really sharp.

The smooth engine cover with the grille in front of it really looks neat.

That's them ! I did add a small red PORSCHE script decal in the correct font to each wheel

It's all in the details

Alan! You have taste!

....and talent for sure!

Thanks for the kudos, flared speedsters have a wedge in the market if they have eyes & that is where I try to make it appealing by doing them a bit different...and it makes it fun too ~

Looking good, Alan!

Candy's black cousin

Still can't do any heavy duty work but felt good enough to make some assembly progress : finished configuring the electric door solenoids they'll work off a key fob and manual too. With the deck lid grill deleted, I fabricated & installed a 12v linear actuator that will raise the rear deck lid 2.5" for addition cooling if needed.

Did some steering column fitting and machined a Flaming River' GM steering wheel adapter to fit a modern version of a Billet/black steering wheel to the VW column.

Well, I am pretty speechless -- and in awe.   My best Merklin Special so far has been Candy, but I can see I may have to adjust my sights some when this beauty rolls out.

Sorry to hear about the paint-redo -- a genuine PITA, but looks like it all got fixed.  All the little custom touches are going to come together beautifully.  Can't wait to see it.

Dude was near dead a week ago.

Forget "Dr. Clock"-- Al, you're "The King".

With this wicked black looking car I'm thinking "Count Clockula" (the whole undead thing, ya know) is appropriate.

Alan,

First hoping you are doing well on your recovery.

Can you share where you procured the 12V Actuator to raise the rear deck 2.5"?

I have been thinking of doing same on my VS here in FL.  Thanks.

Each day, a bit improved, climbing back into my car carrier Tuesday AM~

I purchased the linear actuator w/o mounting brackets on eBay. I removed the body latch assembly and mounted the actuator onto the 2 x 2 steel behind the lic. plate area. Drilled out the top of the actuator shaft to accept 1/4" rod and tapped it for a 5/16" set screw to secure it. Bent a 85 degree angle and drilled a 1/4" hole centered on the deck lid where the latch rod was. The actuator set to when it is fully extended at 2.5" To open the deck lid for full access, just gently pull the rod out of the deck lid and secure the lid open with the usual hing pin. Wiring is easy by using a hidden under dash toggle switch wired for reversed polarity.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141390...e=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Alan,

Thank you very much for your kind reply.  I was already on ebay looking at the 2" or 4" actuators (but with the brackets).  I am going to look into following your directions and doing the same as you have.

See you in Carlisle.  Thank you again.

Tom L.

Deck lid actuator installed, door panels fabricated, all rear end electrical and signals done...High wind gusts and 1 degree here this AM, the shop heat was only 42 degrees so the remaining electrical will wait.

Alan, when you get a chance could you take a couple of photos of your actuator install?

I'm thinking of installing one in my IM and would love to see how you did yours.

Alan, I have the actuator and have wired the reversing DC polarity switch.

One question:  you have bottom of cylinder that holds piston as a "pivot" point, correct?

Piston end would be "fixed" to a bracket on the deck (where the latch pin used to be).

Craw-Dad Dennis had suggested this as the best option as the angle of deck changes as it raises the 2" travel?

Ron Will do next trip into shop...I just took the trash out and it'd damn c c cold !

I have the actuator attached to a lower fixed bracket on the 2 x 2 steel frame it is stationary and does not pivot, I have a 1/4" rod attached to the top of the actuator piston with a 85 degree bend at the end which goes into the deck lid hole where I removed the latch pin from..since the deck lid only open 2" there is no need to have the actuator pivot in the lower mounting bracket. When retracted, the 1/4" rod is at rest below the deck lid lip.

Thank you, Alan.  Your setup makes sense.  I am going to work on this next weekend when I get my ride back from my mechanic. 

Tom L.

Tryin' to liven up this thread: So Alan, wassup w/ #36?  Too damn cold to go out in the barn??  Your adoring public needs to know.

Yesterday, my electric shop heat couldn't compete well with zero degrees, went to Lowe's and not  a space heater available.....so off the deck went the BBQ gas grill and dragged it into the shop...I had 80 degrees in 20 minutes and had a light steak aroma to boot~

I spent too much time doing electrical with the old harness, I should have chopped it out and replaced it with a new VS harness since I know it by heart...anyway I am 90% done with the electrics and all works as it should. The all LED tail and signal lights made it difficult to get them to flash but it is done. Little things like the horn, cooler fan and actuator switch are now functional too. Tomorrow I'll seal the outer floor to body and check out a stuck E' Brake cable. I'm way behind my time line but since I feel so much better I am catching up quickly.  Maybe...I'll get into custom fabricating the carpet next weekend~

OK, Alan.  Good to hear from you, and the progress.

Is your space heater 110 V or 220 V?  I have a 220 V, fan-forced jobby that works pretty good -- small and portable -- can aim it where I'm working.  But it does not end up making me want to have a steak for dinner.  Just sayin' . . .

Cold up here too, Alan. I need a quick tip if you can, Amigo. I'm trying to replace my piano wire release cable for the rear deck lid. It has a shaft on one end that the pull knob screws onto so can only go in from the front. I've had it in from the back just to test and it goes thru with a bit of a struggle.

Going In from the front, it stops on a ridge or something inside the tube just about aft of the rear wheel where the tube makes a turn. The only thing I can think of to help it thru is to put a gob of bondo or JB weld on the end of it to form a slightly larger but dull point. I've squirted oil down the tube from the rear.

Any other ideas ? Thanks...We're looking forward to seeing your new car.

Alan..do you recommend any particular type or brand of electrical connectors ? I know you can get crimpable, solderable and heat shrink all in one if you want. I have a good pair of ratcheting crimp pliers. Thanks.

Dave:

Do you have enough wire to afford to bend the end around a little?  Make a small and tight 180 deg turn at the end, so it would jump over any step?  Also, would be hardly any bigger.  And, not sure if this kind of wire would actually bend, vs snap off.  Just idle thoughts.  I'm sure Dr. Clock has been there, done that, so listen to what he says.

I got a good tip about the engine cover release on here a few years ago.  Make an emergency deck lid release in case your main one breaks.  Just hook an additional  steel wire to the actuator---you can see what has to be pulled by the main wire to open the deck lid so attach it there.  Just wrap the end around some place under the rear bumper where you can pull it to open the lid if your main wire ever breaks.

Alan will chime in here with the info on the main wire you askes about.

Alan's idea works well with the hood also, read about it on Samba and installed one on the my car...it works...

David...If you can't get a replacement cable through the tube, I would yank the existing tube out and replace it, not that difficult.  

Yea the emergency extra pull cable is good to have.

They make a crimp connector that is also "water proof" you just use a quick pass of a lighter or hair drier to seal it.

Kelly,  fan forced 220v, good until it gets below 25 degrees..~A

Alan, re: heaters.  Sounds like what I have, BUT, my garage is attached to the house, so has two walls heated, as well as about 3/4 of the ceiling.  So basically I have one wall, and the door (second wall) exposed to the outside.  Your little den of iniquity is free standing, so lots more loss.  You do have insulation, right??

Alan, above you mention "deck lid actuator installed". I was thinking of going that path. Is yours just a 12 v solenoid that pulls the release ? Any details appreciated. 

David.... I eliminated the release mech. mounted the actuator on the 2x2 steel frame with a removable mounting bracket because it needs to be removed to get the clearance for installing the motor. I have a 1/4" rod affixed to the actuator piston that is bent at the end and goes into the deck lid hole where the latch " bolt" was.

Kelly.... Yes the Merklin Motor Works Speedster Birthing Center insulated walls and ceiling.

"Birthing Center"??!!  LOL, or as they say around here:  BWAAAHAHAHA!!!

And I think Dave needs a picture of that deck lid lift thingy.  I know I do.  Can't quite picture what you have done there, although it sounds outrageously cool.

Guys text me your cell  7 one 7  86zero 847 six and I'll send you the actuator pic

Alan

Thanks, Alan but no need for me. I failed to read your earlier post and now understand you are using the linear actuator to pop the lid, do a quick disconnect and carry on with a hinge pin arrangement. Neat setup.

I'm going to fit a 12 v solenoid to actuate my stock release mechanism and hopefully finish off with a gas strut that might work automatically.

Cool idea there Dave.  There will be lots to learn from your creative genius at Carlisle -- lookin' fwd to seeing you (and the re-worked Canuck Speedy) then.

I believe Nolan Scott has a similar setup to open his rear trunk compartment That would be another solution to look at as he is planning to attend Carlisle also.  I've seen it in action and it's pretty neat.