It looks like it is pretty good in terms of the lines so I am thinking its the body connected to the frame that needs to go down. Is this a common problem? Its a cmc fiberfab.
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It looks like it is pretty good in terms of the lines so I am thinking its the body connected to the frame that needs to go down. Is this a common problem? Its a cmc fiberfab.
Also I noticed the vintage speedsters have some sort of rubber trim piece. Am I correct is it rubber or some other material? I would like to add it to my car and am curious how thick it is as I would have to make clearance for that also.
Post a photo and a line showing where it rubs I can then give you the right fix. I use McMasters D shaped hollow rubber molding as a door seal.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/59077920@N06/5814106698/in/photostream
change the AT to the symbol
change the AT to the symbol
Picture not tremendously helpful - do search on CMC butt sag which impacts the gap of the rear door edge to the body (wide at top and closer at bottom?). If rear hasn't been reinforced - spend afternoon doing it.
Wolfgang, you're a real task master!
Looks like it's the rearward bottom door edge that is rubbing, you probably can adjust the hinges a tad or as I do, grab the door at the bottom and yank it up.....gently that is this will tweak the hinges a hair.
HIJACK - On General Motors assembly lines in the late 60's, two union asembly line workers - one on each side of the car - spent all day opening and slamming every door on every car. To achieve "door alignment" each used a piece of hard oak or maple, a bit larger than a baseball bat. They knew just where to insert the lever and apply force to bend the sheet metal until everything fit. Body by Fisher! I observed this operation in at least ten different assembly plants in and around Detroit. END HIJACK.
Continuing hijack:
Dave: They did exactly the same thing at the assembly plant in Framingham, Massachusetts. Watched them doing this when in there on a Boy Scout tour, way back when.
End of "end of hijack"
Dave: They did exactly the same thing at the assembly plant in Framingham, Massachusetts. Watched them doing this when in there on a Boy Scout tour, way back when.
End of "end of hijack"
My door gaps are actually ok... but they used tiny self tapping screws, and I think thats going to work itself some slack after time. I see some guys using big 1/4" self tappers, and others through bolts. How tough is that steel to just drill through it and nylock it on the other side with thick fender washers? Just doing some preventative butt sag maintenence.... like my ex girlfriend should have...
The rear sag is caused by the 1/4" rivets elongating the holes where they go thru the fiberglass inner wheel well plus the single steel square tube drooping from weight of the rear fiberglass. I used through stainless steel bolts with large SS washers with the SS nyloc nuts (and some bonding glue). Tough drilling with a angle drill and short drill bit (tight clearances).
You can fix this yourself in under two hours and about $20 bucks.
You'll need a floor jack,a set of jack stands, drill, 4 ft pc. of 2x4, 10 - 5/16 bolts, fender washers, regular washers, nyloc nuts and some construction adhesive.
Complete the repair one side at a time.
Put the car on four jack stands ( don't put just two them on the rear as it may cause it to to stress a bit while doing the repair.) Remove the rear wheels. Place the 2 x 4 centered on the floor jack pad. Raise the 2 x 4 on the jack up to meet rear body section below the bumper ( not on the bumper) until you just make contact, this will relieve the tension on the factory installed rivets that are located horizontally in the wheel wheels.
First drill out the rivets, then slowly jack up on the rear body section just a bit until you have an even vertical door gap. Now drill new 5/16 holes into the wheel well panel and 2 x 2 steel, pull the fiberglass wheel well panel away from the 2 x 2 steel tube with two large screwdrivers, apply some construction adhesive between the panel and the 2 x 2 and remove the screwdrivers. Slide a fender washer on a 5/15 bolt, pass it through the new hole you hole add another washer on the 2 x 2 steel side and a nyloc nut doing the same four more times spaced evenly or as close as you can on that same wheel well side. Repeat the process on the other side . ~Alan
You'll need a floor jack,a set of jack stands, drill, 4 ft pc. of 2x4, 10 - 5/16 bolts, fender washers, regular washers, nyloc nuts and some construction adhesive.
Complete the repair one side at a time.
Put the car on four jack stands ( don't put just two them on the rear as it may cause it to to stress a bit while doing the repair.) Remove the rear wheels. Place the 2 x 4 centered on the floor jack pad. Raise the 2 x 4 on the jack up to meet rear body section below the bumper ( not on the bumper) until you just make contact, this will relieve the tension on the factory installed rivets that are located horizontally in the wheel wheels.
First drill out the rivets, then slowly jack up on the rear body section just a bit until you have an even vertical door gap. Now drill new 5/16 holes into the wheel well panel and 2 x 2 steel, pull the fiberglass wheel well panel away from the 2 x 2 steel tube with two large screwdrivers, apply some construction adhesive between the panel and the 2 x 2 and remove the screwdrivers. Slide a fender washer on a 5/15 bolt, pass it through the new hole you hole add another washer on the 2 x 2 steel side and a nyloc nut doing the same four more times spaced evenly or as close as you can on that same wheel well side. Repeat the process on the other side . ~Alan