It can be done in several hours and is really easy if you've done it before (or even watched someone). I've done it on three cars and, when all goes right, it's a snap and fun to do.
That said (don't you HATE that phrase . . . ) if you've never done it before you should have a shop do it this time. The labor cost will only be three/four hours, you've probably already got all the parts, you'll only be charged extra for grease and cotter pins, and you KNOW that it's done right.
If they'll let you, watch them doing the work. Once the wheels, rotors and calipers are off, you remove the cotter pins and nuts from the ball joints and tie rod ends. Pull the ends out of the spindle mounts, hit the spindle on the "flats" near the ball joints until they "pop" free, pull the speedometer out of the old spindle, replace the old spindle with the new. Make sure that the camber adjusters are set correctly, and reassemble in reverse order.
It's a perfect time to install new bearings or, at least, repack the old ones. It's also a good time to check the pads and replace them as well.
Once done you loosen the four bolts holding the beam in place, remove the bottom two entirely, install the caster shims under the beam where it mounts to the frame head, and replace the bottom two bolts with the longer ones that you ordered with the shims, tighten/torgue it up and . . .
DONE!
Unless I've forgotten something, if that's the case . . . do THAT as well . . . and . . .
DONE!
Luck,
TC
Oh, wait . . . I'm getting a vision from the future now . . . if Wolfgang posts that you don't need castor shims . . . he's wrong . . . and, wait . . . there's another vision . . . yes . . . yes . . . it's coming clear . . if Jack posts some lengthy directions . . . they're incomplete . . . now the vision is fading . . . fading . . . gone . . .
