Dropping the 356....

@MangoSmoothie.ca did an amazing job lowering his Speedster. I'm sure there are others but his is the one I always remember.

I am aware of his. I will look for all the posts and stuff. Thank you !!!!!

Do you mean that the torsion bar splines are stuck in the spring plate socket and the torsion bar housing socket? If so I would try spraying them with PB Blaster and let them soak.  I have a 2" narrowed beam with drop spindles with Wide five disc brakes and 195/65/15 tires. They fit under the wheel wells and don't rub. Had to adjust the steering stops but still get a good turning radius. I also narrowed the rear trailing arms about 1", have rear discs and can fit 205/60/15 tires without rubbing.  I am using Vintage 190s (5.5") rims. My car is not dropped very low and I did have to raise the rear a little higher than I wanted because the A1 exhaust was hitting. I do like the lowered look but in the end being able to drive it normally without babying it over every bump is worth it and you get used to the standard ride height. Air bags would solve that problem.

That is exactly what I am talking about.

I sprayed them... I really sprayed them a few times but no release. Once I get the car to NewMexico and the weather allows I will get back into it.

I also see me drilling holes in the body and making caps, to remove the outer torsion carriers. If I can not get the torsion rods to release I do not want to cut them and the extra room to pull will be nice.

I do plan on adding air, with a 4" narrowed beam and 1" narrowed rear I should be good with no rubbing

You say your beam is only 2" narrowed.... interesting that your good with 1" per side and you have a wide 5 disc....any under body pics?

I do plan on a 195 or 185 tire. I was also hoping to keep a 5.5 and not have to go to 4.5.

The exhaust is a concern but I think I'm going to have to make my own and get it tucked up high behind each rear wheel. Will see how it all looks in time. I was wanting to keep a single centered tip but that will probably have to change.

A dream I have is too mold/pull fiberglass parts from mine and make another body, full tube chassis and go with a mid engine motorcycle powered 3/4 scale(ish) 356. But this is just a dream.

Thanks for the reply, I look forward to more conversation as I get this car to its future home and get back at it while i have a few $$ in the bank.

Hey Todd - got your PM.  figured i'd reply here to (maybe) help someone else in the future.

re: stuck torsion bars.  on the outer - use a MAP gas torch to heat the spring plate housing and then bang the inner bar with a punch.

because you are planning air - don't worry about the stuck inner.  You should get adjustable spring plates and when you install them, don't lock them down (tighten the slide bolt; the ones in the pic below don't have this bolt).  you want it to move freely. Otherwise, when you pump your rear bags, your suspension will get rock hard as it loads up the torsion bar.

BTW - i did this same technique on the front.  i have a PUMA beam, and no adjusters locked down (but keep the centering pins in).  If I loose air pressure, it just drops to the torsion. aside from being Looooow, you will still be able to drive it.

For air management, i have only used Manual on the 4 cars i've done.  the latest ('49 chevy truck), i used an AireJax manifold.  The ports are 1/2" and variable, so you can ajust teh speed to drop/raise by how far the lever is pushed.  Note: i have not used it yet - i'm still installing the front bags.  I'll report back.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jQGumaAGHY

Also - if you are interested in the specs for my car (tire size, suspension specs, whatever), i am in the middle of moving website hosts to get all the pictures back up.  pics are not up, but the 356 specs are: http://www.mangosmoothie.ca/356/

hope this helps!

Thanks for the reply.

FYI, so you know where is have been with the VW air ride...

My 69 Ghia.

I narrowed my own beam 4" made through rods and no adjusters added. I used the Monroe shocks up front. I had passive/manual paddles for the valve controls with 3 pressure gauges. The tank is a 4gal pancake that fits in the spare tire well and I have 2 Thompson compressors. The rear I designed myself. I removed the torsion bars in the rear as well.

My questions were more on...

Did you narrow the front beam? Balljoint?

Did you narrow the rear? IRS?

I plan in using heimjoint torsion eliminators in the back and possibly a 1" narrow per side. I will stick with through rods up front. I wont be able to do 4" narrowed beam but 2" looks doable. I tank and 2 compressors again with paddle/manual switches again. Keep to what I know works best.

I have been looking for another beam to narrow but no luck on one yet. I might decide to start on my own dual arm system up front so I can run all 4 bags.

Thanks for the reply. I will check you website.

THANKS PAL !!!!!!!!

• 3.5" narrowed adjustable front beam (originally a CB Performance unit) with narrowed torsion bars and strengthened / welded front bumper brackets, triangulated for strength. Relocated steering box limits and dampener bracket. Coated marine epoxy gloss black. Air tank mounts welded to beam/front bumper brackets.
• Adjustable rear spring plates with new short torsion bars conversion / caps and new inner & outer rubber trailing arm bushings. Spring plates notched 8mm for extra clearance (much more than 8mm due to fulcrum of spring plate)
• New Lowered Ball joints (more clearance than stock ones) and aluminum caster shims
• Custom Narrowed IRS rear suspension (33mm) to fit wider tires (made in jig), wide-5 Brake swap and CB Performance Spun Aluminum Brake Covers (look like a real 356). Welded braces to strengthen trailing arms. Finished in gloss black marine enamel.
• Monroe Air Sleeve Front Suspension (MA756 Model works well, run inverted with modified bushings and upgraded fittings (come with 1/8" lines))
• OEM Boge oil-filled rear shocks (very smooth ride)
• Relayed, on-board 100% duty cycle Viair 380 Chrome air compressor on dual stage vibration isolators,
• 110PSI on / 145PSI off pressure switch
• 2.5 Gal steel air tank with water trap
• check and drain valves
• Two, dual needle 150 PSI, back-lit white-faced 2" gauges (FBSS) and single tank pressure gauge
• High pressure paddle type valves
• Lines:
  • Front: 1/4" lines
  • Tank gauge: 1/8"
  • Rear: 3/8" reduced to 1/4" at the valve (the whole line is 3/8" - which speeds up air flow). Valve only comes in 1/4" and reducer from 3/8" to 1/4" has been bored out to not impede airflow. Not fast by any means, but smooth.
  • PTC (Push to connect), brass and compression fittings used.
• Thick steel, custom-made lower air bag brackets (5.5") welded and braced on modified narrowed trailing arms,
• Upper air bag brackets (D-SHAPE PLATE 4.5 x 5.5") on welded brackets bolted to frame with 6 x 3.5" Grade 8 bolts,
• Rear CONITECH 2-ply double convoluted 2500 air bags - single 1/2" port reduced to 3/8" lines

Mango.....funny, I was just looking on your page.

Hahaahhhaah