Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I think I may be the only one, now that Jim D. has sold his speedster.

I was around when Jake did his supertest of all the available (at the time) shrouds, including the OG tin. The guy spent a freak-load of time and money on the tests, and used them to tweak and refine his DTM until it did better than OE tin (according to his reports).

Nobody ever saw the complete data. Bits and pieces of it were up on several sites for a few days, but then pulled down. There was a deal in the works for a VW magazine from England to buy the data to publish, but it fell apart. For a while Jake was telling people they would get the data if they bought a shroud, but I bought two and requested but never received anything.

It's odd, and one of the reasons I think the DTM never really took hold. I was deep on the front-end of the madness at the point he was developing the shroud, and saw (but did not record) the data he put up for those couple of days. It was enough to convince me to give it a try. Jake's stated reason for not producing data was that he had spent thousands, perhaps tens of thousands of dollars on acquiring the data, and he was not inclined to give it away. He was also very, very concerned about Chinese knock-offs of it-- I thought it was paranoia at the time, but over the years I've watched several knock-offs of Tiger's sidewinder come to market, so it doesn't seem like such a remote possibility any more.

My experience has been good. It cools the heads well and pretty evenly (I monitor all 4 cylinder temps). With a 2L motor, you'll need to supplement the oil cooling, but IMHO, it's silly not to do that anyhow. I think it does better than a 36 hp doghouse shroud (Scat or Empi-- there's very little difference), but it's not a huge thing. The cheap 36 hp shrouds are definitely more ruggedly built, and more difficult to adapt to a "bubble-top" AL case.

In short, I use them because I want every last possible bit of cooling I can get. I think these cars are starved for cooling air, and even if a DTM is only 5% better, that's 5% more than not running it. I like compression, and compression needs cooling.

Rusty S posted:

From what I have read Jake Raby did extensive testing and his shroud works exponentially better than what Germany's sainted and infallible engineers could come up with in the 1930s.

I'm not sure if the type 1 is available anymore.

^ Fixed it for you, Rusty.

LN Engineering bought the rights to the DTM, as well as Jake's "Type 4 Store" parts business recently. The Type 4 Store still sells Type 1 DTMs.

Last edited by Stan Galat
WOLFGANG posted:

It seems that all of them I've seen in Speedsters have the flex pipe across the top crushed or deformed by the right hood hinges. Not sure how that affects the flow from what it was designed to be.

 Craig - You can't add the heater pipes as that would totally change the flow of air in the DTM.  

Image result for dtm type 1 in speedster replica

That's a V1 Type 4 DTM. My Type 1 DTM clears just fine.

El Frazoo posted:

First I've seen of a cable operated dual carb throttle, vs hex bar style linkage.  I like it.  How well does that work?  easy to balance??

Um...

It's a sync-link linkage. Terry Nuckels and I keep talking about it. On and on and on we talk about it.

If you've somehow missed two or three years of evangelizing about it: you might take a look at the picture I put up 8 posts before Scott's.

Just for clarification's sake: there are 3 versions of the DTM:

V1 Type 4: uses a Type 4 oil cooler mounted in the shroud, and therefore has the heater hose. 

V2 Type 4: has no cooler in the shroud. Assumes a remote cooler will be used. 

Type 1: uses a Type 4 oil cooler in the shroud, and therefore has a heater hose.

All 3 remain available to purchase. 

Last edited by Stan Galat
El Frazoo posted:

Gorgeous -- museum quality.  Ever drive it??  

First I've seen of a cable operated dual carb throttle, vs hex bar style linkage.  I like it.  How well does that work?  easy to balance??

Yep, it's a sync-link. It very sensitive and very accurate. After installing it uncovered that my throttle pedal spring needs replacing (I think). The old throttle set-up actually keep enough pull-force on my pedal to keep it up. I have a worn spring and the weight of the pedal now pulls the throttle a bit—keeping the rpm's at 2k unless I reach down and hold the pedal.

mtflyr posted:

Wow Scott!

Very cool, would love to meet up with you and see your car.  I'm in the Fairfax area and often go to Kattie's on early Saturday mornings, Dulless/Sterling and Fairfax Circle C&C's on Sunday. My buddy Syl from the Falls Church area also goes to these C&C's.

Pete 

Scott57 posted:

Here's mine in my CMC._DSC0526_DSC0528_DSC0529_DSC0532_DSC0533

Here is the before shot.IMG_3051

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_3051

Bruce--I know you will hear from Stan but here's my own experience.  I have a medium-large Raby Type IV with the latest version of the DTM shroud plus a Seatrab oil cooler.  No matter what the ambient temps are, and I mean from 40 to 105 degrees, and at any altitude, I  never see any higher oil temp than 185 degrees and very low CHTs.  ( I have wondered if my oil  and CHT gauges are working!)  I was always worried about high engine temps as I have been aware that heat is the enemy of an air cooled engine but heat is a non-issue now.  I am really pleased with this engine and long ago I forgot about the cost.  I know the DTM has a lot to do with my temps but feel that the Seatrab also plays a part----maybe a large part ---but whatever, this is a wonderful combo.  I commonly run 75-80 and occasionally faster on long trips. 

 

Last edited by Jack Crosby
Scott57 posted:
mtflyr posted:

Wow Scott!

Very cool, would love to meet up with you and see your car.  I'm in the Fairfax area and often go to Kattie's on early Saturday mornings, Dulless/Sterling and Fairfax Circle C&C's on Sunday. My buddy Syl from the Falls Church area also goes to these C&C's.

Pete 

Scott57 posted:

Here's mine in my CMC._DSC0526_DSC0528_DSC0529_DSC0532_DSC0533

Here is the before shot.IMG_3051

Scott;

What carbs are you running with the sync-link?  I assume you love the sync-link like all the rest of the guys here? I can afford the sync -link, but not the carbs that match it. I've got kadrons 40/44 EIS

Art

Stan......Did you not want to post what you found for cylinder head temps because Raby didn't either? I don't know if you had some proprietary agreement with him or not. That's Ok if there is some reason.  Still, I am real curious about what you got for cyl. head temps. using the DTM shroud.  It's a given that you have an entirely different engine configuration than I do but I'd like to compare them with what I get using an after market 36 hp shroud with no heater ports. Hands down...the external oil cooler does the job on the oil. Especially with the mocal oil filter bypass "sandwich" you recommended for warm-up............Bruce

aircooled posted:

Stan......Did you not want to post what you found for cylinder head temps because Raby didn't either? I don't know if you had some proprietary agreement with him or not. That's Ok if there is some reason.  Still, I am real curious about what you got for cyl. head temps. using the DTM shroud.  It's a given that you have an entirely different engine configuration than I do but I'd like to compare them with what I get using an after market 36 hp shroud with no heater ports. Hands down...the external oil cooler does the job on the oil. Especially with the mocal oil filter bypass "sandwich" you recommended for warm-up............Bruce

Not at all, Bruce. I didn't reply because I don't roll quite like that. I use the tools I've got to do the best I can, but I'm a poor record-keeper.

I've had the 4-input head temp gauges with 4 different configurations:

1) a 2332 with welded 043 heads and 9.5:1 compression

2) a 2276 with the same heads and a weird cam (105* lobe centers)

3) a 9:1 2110 with a 120-ish cam

4) My present configuration (FK8, 10.6:1, twin plug)

Obviously, my present configuration runs the highest head temps. The thing with the DTM is the relatively consistent temps I see across all cylinders. Number 3 is always about 10* warmer, but the consistency is pretty amazing when you think how difficult it would be to get air to the 3-4 side of the engine. 

I don't think I've ever seen head temps above 290-ish, which is pretty good with a 10.5+:1 engine in a speedster.

I'd love to compile "like to like" data comparing a 36 hp shroud with a DTM, but I just lack the will and time, so what I've got is "seat of the pants". The DTM works really well. I've got an Awesome Powdercoat 36 hp shroud with a Type 4 cooler and the flaps-- it does a good job, but I just want to get every last bit I can out of the cooling.

I'm sorry I didn't get this up sooner. 

Last edited by Stan Galat

Add Reply

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×