Dyno of WassermeccanicaT-1

Dyno day for the IM!

92 oct Shell gas with 8 lb boost:
161.7 wheel HP, 120 FtLb AT 7200RPM
135 FtLb, 100HP AT 4100RPM

193 wheel HP AT 15lb boost, ECU shut down due either to too lean EG sensor reading or hitting boost limit. I gots to get a new chip so I get 180 wheel HP reliably!!!

That's a really nice torque curve Tomm.

and if you get board of 180 hp - those 1.8T's respond very well (to say the least) to turbo upgrades. 250-300 is not out of the question with bolt on stuff.

Check out Vortex 1.8T forum: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeroforum?id=27

Yup, I'm getting there a bit at a time. Its already comfortably quick.

"Its already comfortably quick." You are INSANE!
(bet your're having BIG FUN though)

Ernie, you are so mean to me! I just installed a home built MBC after the N75 valve and got the peak boost to 12PSI with much sooner actuation of the boost. The car is very comfortably quick now. I am inching up on 14.7PSI boost where I feel confident the engine will run safely. An A/F ratio test will be done to confirm.

Tomm

Now running 15PSI boost w/o any engine mgt problems. Will drive conservatively until I dyno and get EG readings to confirm I have not asked for too much and am running lean.

Well conservatively from now on. Road test this AM was, well, thrilling, especially on wet roads. Took a turn a with a bit too much throttle and recovered after 2 nice side to side fishtail oscillations. I MUST learn to keep on the throttle and steer, NOT let off the gas, cover my eyes and scream like a little girl (no offense intended, Angela). On the highway, the car now pulls like a monster in 3rd, 4th AND 5th.

My final boost check valve is a dead simple, non adjustable, vented ball and spring unit I made from brass plumbing parts and calibrated to add 5PSI additional to the existing N75 wastegate control circuit. The biggest issue was keeping the Silicone elbow from the turbo outlet connected to the top intercooler pipe. Once that was solved by repositioning the hose and clamps then torquing down the clamp, all was OK.

Tomm

Hey Tom, I also had problems with the boost pipes coming of under boost. Quite a strange experience when you are driving and this happens. Makes quite a noise as it happens and the power drops off dramatically. My pipes are all polished stainless steel. I tried a number of different clamps without great success. I even had to replace one of the silicone pipes because the clamp cut into it. I eventually removed the pipes and welded a small bead along the edges of the pipes and then placed the clamps ahead of the bead. This has worked pretty well to date. I do now however keep a few tools in the car to solve this problem on the road.

Greg,

I already have weld beads on my pipes, the clamp just was not torqued down properly to hold the pressure. Once the Silicone hose popped off, I had a bitch of a time getting it seated correctly. Application of a hair drier and lights warmed it up enough to replace smoothly and get the clamp on correctly.

Is that an air to water charge cooler in your pictures?

Tomm

drop those pipes in a bucket of hot water before install--much easier.