I just wanted to loop back and mention that I managed to hook up with this seller. He still had the car for sale and simply let the listing expire. I spoke with Bill for a good half an hour. Genuine guy. He's not trying to fleece anyone. He just has a car to sell and he wants to get a certain price. No fault there.
Here are some mental notes I took while looking at the car this morning. I sent them to a few of you via 'dialog', but I figured I'd share with the group.
The motor is an 1835, with about 20k on it. The motor leaks a oil, but what VW doesn't? I'm a little concerned about how much. We did a little warm up and a 10 minute test drive, we sat and talked for 15 mins or so. When he pulled away the car had left a silver dollar sized oil spot on the asphalt. That's a bit more than I'd like to see. The tires were not new, they had maybe 5k left on them... maybe.
* From front to back and side to side, the entire body had 'checking' in the gel coat/paint. Every single panel had pretty substantial to major checking. Football sized sections everywhere you would expect to look you could find checking. It's a 30+ year old body. Maybe that's to be expected.
* The windshield was broken badly on the passenger side. A small crack on the drivers side.
* The synchros between 1st and 2nd were worn.
* The wiring harness was spliced more than I would have liked to have seen. Not a very clean harness at all.
* All of the light fixtures were plastic and the metal rings were pitted. The front headlight buckets were rusty (simple fix).
* The fuel gauge doesn't work.
* No carpets, but we knew that.
* The hard top was a some sort of ABS plastic aftermarket unit, which didn't fit. It could be made to fit, but it lacked any hardware or a rear window.
* The bumpers were broken and not usable without major work. It would be cheaper to just buy new.
* There wasn't a complete soft top. There were 'some parts' for one, but nothing complete or serviceable.
* The body had some really odd lumps on the inside cockpit area just behind the seats and on the inside of the door threshold. I can't explain it better than that... big oddly shaped lumps. Right behind the front seat where the vertical section of the door jamb meets the horizontal threshold, on the 'inside' of the car. They did not impact the doors closing at all. They were just big blobs of rough glass about the size of a salami. Same L shape turds on each side.
* The boot wouldn't latch. The striker latch/pin was flopping around the boot.
* The rain guard had been cut off the inside of the boot and a new one had been fashioned out of rough glass mat. Functional but not pretty.
* The inside of the front trunk lip had a crack in the fiberglass where the bonnet latch was secured. No other cracks were evident.
* The pan was a patched using custom panels. and each side was replaced as one solid piece. No scabs. No harm there. Very clean work
* The car had early 912 gauges, not the correct 356 ones. (Not bad really, looked correct, unless you knew what to look for.)
* Any and every hole which was filled before paint was applied was cracking and the 'filler' was separating from the glass. All of the 'filled' holes were basically visible circular cracks in the paint.
* The harness ran inside the cockpit and as I said before, it was spliced in many sections and secured with yellow crimp connectors.
* The doors fit poorly. The rear top of each door sat in and low about 3.8ths of an inch. The rear lower part of the door drug on the body threshold and stuck out a bit. The front of the doors seemed to be mostly okay. It was like the doors were twisted somehow.
Basically - it was just a very old run down build. It could use a lot of attention. Most notably a complete quality paint job and all new light hardware/bright work.
The good:
* The speedster tonneau was brand new canvas. Beautiful shape. I am pretty sure it was new/never used.
* The seats were proper speedster units and in very good shape.
* The hard tonneau was actually very nice. It felt great when driving. Your head just barely touched it under acceleration. Nice comfortable feel to it. No rattles, squeaks, or anything. I was surprised.
* The original 356a steering wheel and shift knob were in good shape.
* The original EMPI wide 5 wheels were in good shape, funky orange, but good shape.
* It was lowered properly and handled very well. Tracked true and with authority.
* Under hard breaking it tracked straight and true. Under slight to moderate breaking it pulled to the right a tiny bit. Disks will fix that.
Summary:
Over all, it was a very big project needing about 7k of cash and a good amount of time to get it right. A guy could sell the EMPI wheels and the original Porsche steering wheel to could cover the cost of a decent knock off Nardi, some wide 5 speedster wheels/moons, and a disk brake kit for the front. It would still need a complete paint job, a new harness, new bright-work and a new transmission.
Result:
I asked what his bottom line cash in hand price was. He said 14,500. I offered 10k, he balked. I came up to 11. Still balked. Then 11,500. He was at 14,500. I pulled out the 11k in $100.00 bills. He came down to 13,000. I moved up (very very reluctantly) to 12,000 to test the waters. That was about all I could muster and I felt like a nut case doing it. He turned me down. Thankfully. I felt relieved that he said no.
I left him my number and said I'm a buyer at 11, but noting more. He said he's a seller at 13 and nothing less. We shook hands and parted ways. Without knowing what the body would cost to 'get it right' - I'm pretty sure I'd have buyers remorse if I had paid 12k.
I'd be better off spending 15k and getting the best example I can find. Paint and body work are expensive. I'd like to avoid that if possible.
Thanks for being a sounding board while I go through this process. I appreciate it!
Sincerely,
Ted Pierson