electric fuel pump wiring

I have this on my to do list, just haven't around to it yet. It is triggered off of the tach or run signal so if the tach signal stops ( accident) , fuel pump will not run on.

Do a search on 3.300.100 fuel pump relay.

http://www.busdepot.com/321906059C

I have just finished wiring an electronic fuel pump.  This is what I used:

http://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html

No complaints and easy to wire.

Thanks guys. Big help.

A manual red covered toggle switch just under dash would be cool too.  It could be turned off as a theft deterrent to (by cutting off electrical power to the fuel pump).

I did get the revolution adapter. Thanks so much for the recommendation. I think it is worth every penny for the safety aspect. And it looks to make the install a lot easier

My question -
The introductions say to attach a lead to the tach, so it can determine if the car is running post cranking. They suggest attaching it under the dash to the lead going to the tach. Quite a gymnastics move for me due to the IM lower dash ac , etc...

OK if I attach this line to the coil at the tach terminal of the coil?
Anyone see any problem with that.?

It certainly would make my life easier.

Should work - it's just the other end of the same wire.

Try it!  If it doesn't work, then crawl around under the dash (or hire a small, neighborhood kid to do it!)

Thanks Gordon.

Come to think of it, the unit has a lead that needs to go to a 12v switched power source too...
I imagine I can use the other side of the coil.
One side with the tach reading and the other for the 12v power source...

Do you see any problems with that? Gonna fry my coil?

This gets easier and easier... :-)

"Second verse, same as the first!"

Should work as described.  Just remember that there is some additional (probably nominal) resistance in getting your power and signal from 6 feet away, but I don't see why it would not work.  Just bear in mind that you got that info from an Economics major.....

Here is what my VS looks like... kill switch mounted under the dash, next to steering columb.    Not connected to the fuel pump...  starter just won't turn over when the switch is on the up position... its how Kirk at VS does it.

I installed an impact switch from a peugeot 205 (I'm in the UK) It just goes in the power supply line. If you hit something or something hits you, it cuts the power.

That is a neat feature SRBLOWER.  As to the switch linked to the tach...  what happens to the power to the pump if the tach is just turning in the starting position does it activate the pump to at least start it?   Just saying.

@srblower:  Do you have a Peugeot part number?  Might be something we can cross-reference for use over here (Peugeots are not sold in America).  I've seen them and they're easy to mount and wire in, but need something to chase on eBay.

Hi Guys. IAM-RAY, it's not connected to the tach (I have a cable drive anyway) It's just fitted to the power supply line to the fuel pump which comes from the ignition switch.

Gordon,I searched for a part No but they seem to be fitted to all cars with electric fuel pumps. I searched under "inertia cut off switch" I had one on my jaguar XJR in the foot well. They all seem to have a reset button on the top, i.e. to reset if it has a spurious disconnection (I've never had one on the speedster but I did once on the jag) See attached pic.

You're right - there are a TON of them out there!  Found one for Ford easily available in America.  I've always thought the inertia switch superior to something wired to the Tach signal (seen too many wrecks overturned with the engine still running), so this should work well.  

Thanks!

You can use an oil pressure cut off switch also. If the oil pressure goes away the pump shuts off.

Fpcopo VS posted:

You can use an oil pressure cut off switch also. If the oil pressure goes away the pump shuts off.

They run upside down for a while.

Honestly, if you hit something hard enough, the tank separates itself from the car, leaving only what's in the fuel bowls to burn.

Ask me how I know.

On Christmas day, 1965, I flipped my brother's brand new Ford Bronco over on its' roof almost in my parent's driveway (it's a long story - I'm not going there).  

My dad and brother in law ran from the house to the Bronco, getting there about 30 seconds after hearing the crash and the Bronco was still pleasantly idling away, 4 wheels spinning and everything.  My brother, also in the Bronco, shut it off and we crawled out, neither with any injuries at all.  Since it was new, Insurance wouldn't total it and it took something like 8 months to get it rebuilt (body parts weren't yet available).

Sure made for a sucky Christmas, tho.........  My brother was home on leave from the Air Force at the time.

Since then, I've learned how to drive much better..........

Fpcopo VS posted:

You can use an oil pressure cut off switch also. If the oil pressure goes away the pump shuts off.

What about using a setup like this to shut power down to the coil as well as fuel pump? If you lose oil pressure, whether because of an engine problem or heaven forbid an accident you will still have gas in the carburetor float bowl which could allow the motor to run for a significant amount of time. It may be enough time to damage your engine.

This last case with our SLO group Teby ran for quite awhile before his engine died.