After reading through the threads out here is it pretty safe to say you all lean toward the electric fuel pumps and cap off the mechanical?
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Yep, electric pump, but go rotary as they are quiet unlike the Facet style.
As far as cap off you mean install a block off plate, right?
The EMPI/Facet pump is designed to push fuel so if used it needs to go under the fuel tank - not back in engine compartment. A hidden toggle switch for the fuel pump is a cheap and effective theft deterrent - car may start but won't go far. You need fuel pressure of not more than 3 1/2 PSI so don't splurge on a Holley Dragster version. You may need an adjustable pressure regulator too.
http://www.summitracing.com/pa...WUl7wCFUVlfgod4zYA3Q
I just ordered one from CB with an in-line filter in front of it.
Do you guys put a fuel petcock in front of the filter to make the filter changes easier ?
A cut off would also be good for Winter storage too. Needle valves seem to stick in carbs and can flood engine case or cause dangerous gas spills.
As always, thanks a million!
Sorry, yes the fuel pump block off on the block.
I've been looking at the block offs for a while wondering why anyone would do that. Now I get it.
Im not a fan of electric pumps on carbd cars for daily drivers.Ive seen fuel running out the exhause pipes a few to many times.yes it can be done right. But oh somany dont, and dont know when somethen is rong.
That's my concern, too - what happens if they continue pumping when the engine's not running? That's simply not an issue with mechanical pumps.
On the other hand, moving the pump outside of the engine bay eliminates two fuel line connections near the engine, distributor, and coil - so that eliminates a fire risk.
Originally Posted by Ted:
That's my concern, too - what happens if they continue pumping when the engine's not running? That's simply not an issue with mechanical pumps.
On the other hand, moving the pump outside of the engine bay eliminates two fuel line connections near the engine, distributor, and coil - so that eliminates a fire risk.
For most engines the stock pump is more than adequate; guys with dragracing bugs generally find that it (and the stock fuel line) works 'till the car starts running mid to low 12's. If the stock rubber fuel lines are checked every year, replaced when they start getting hard and clamps are checked occasionally the system works well. BUT IT HAS TO BE CHECKED EVERY YEAR!!!
no mater where you have the fuel pump the fuel still has to get to the engine. if you think puting the fuel pump up front your safe your fooling your self, your lieing to your self, your just hiding it out of sight out of mind... I use marine fuel line where ever rubber line is needed/used. I look at my engine everyday I start the car. this is the only car I have other than my unfinished racecar and unfinished 356.I have fuel filters befor each carb,1 befor the fuel pump, and the "T".I do not worry at all about the conections or fuel lines back there.I keep up with my car and it trys to keep up with me.we dont always agree but we get the job done with a smile.
I have a mechanical pump and replaced all the lines from the tunnel to the carbs last summer just for peace of mind.
I have a filter before my electric pump, which are both mounted up front on the beam, by the tank. Like has been said, rotary pumps like to push the fuel, not draw it all the way to the back. I also have a filter after the T before each carb. I check my fuel lines and clamps all the time, especially in the spring. And I use German braided hose. The problem with electric AND mechanical pumps I see is people bolt them on and never actually check the pressure! Which would definitely be a cause of gas running out the tailpipe! I once had a mechanical pump putting out over 10 psi when I needed 1.5! A stack of ten gaskets and a gauge solved that problem....
One bad thing about an electric fuel pump is unlike a mechanical pump it will still pump gas when the engine stalls and the ignition is in the 'on' position.
The lady I bought my IM back from had an engine fire. The engine stalled, but the electric fuel pump continued to pump fuel to the carbs, and the fire, because
when the fire started she quickly got out of the car, but didn't turn the ignition off. Consequently, the electric fuel pump continued to pump fuel and the fire department had a heck of a time putting the fire out.
Just after the fire
Much $$$ later
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It wont help with a fire starting from an electrical fault or anything but an impact switch fitted to most modern cars will turn off the electric fuel pump on impact. I fitted one to my car for just that reason. Got it out of an old puegot 205.
thats a pretty nice switch,Ive never seen them before.If I run an electrick pump in the future I will probably run through a relay off a oil pressure switch.
Another method: run your ground wire for a fuel pump off of a oil pressure switch , in the event of accident and the motor shuts down, you no longer are supplying circuit ground to the fuel pump.
At Carlisle last year Merklin and his Florida friend 'jerry-rigged' a fulcrum pin fix to my mechanical fuel pump. It's been operating without problems but I thought carrying an emergency backup was a good idea so I inquired about a Brosol pump and was asked if I want a "short stroke, or a long stroke"...duh!
Will someone please tell me which one I need (Type1 2110cc)
Carl,
For the type one engine it depends on whether you have an alternator or a generator.The alternator and generator fuel pump look identical on the outside but they mount different under the base. Pay attention to where the metal flange is.For an alternator engine you need the shorter pump drive rod (100mm), for generator (110mm) Don't put the longer rod on a alternator fp -something will break. I assume that you have an alternator. I did the research on this after your broken fp experience on the way to Carlisle last year and I will now order a spare for the trip.
Hope this helps.
Joel
It depends on whether you're using an alternator pump or generator pump (and you might be using a generator pump even if you're running an alternator). I think alternator pumps are always canted towards the distributor.
The important thing is that an alternator pump uses 100mm long pushrod instead of the 107.5mm long pushrod used by a generator pump. Bad things will happen if you install an alternator pump with the generator pushrod.
While I think all alternator pumps are canted, not all canted pumps are necessarily alternator pumps. Here's how you can tell without taking the pump off to check the pushrod:
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Many thanks Joel and Ted
Another small step forward in understanding what's going on under that engine lid!
Whoa!...that step was smaller than I thought
Ted, upon second reading you say I might be using a generator pump with an alternator (which I have)...but visa-versa is trouble!
Why isn't the mismatched generator pump with an alternator also trouble?
I think some generator pumps won't fit next to the alternator because alternators are wider than generators. Apart from the generator pump pictured above, which would fit next to an alternator, there is also a short pump for generators that was used in beetles from 1966 through 1969 and it will also fit next to an alternator. That's what my car came with:
That pump started leaking fuel into the oil so I put in a new one of the same style. The diaphragm of that pump began leaking a year or so later (and I'd been using premium gas without ethanol, by the way) so I decided to stop using the short generator pumps altogether and went with a bocar alternator pump + the shorter pushrod.
So:
1) Some, but not all, generator pumps will fit next to an alternator
2) Alternator pumps will fit next to both generators and alternators
3) You must use the right pushrod with whichever pump you use
4) Alternator fuel pump + generator pump's pushrod = bad things
5) Generator fuel pump + alternator pump's pushrod = low/insufficient fuel volume
One other thing, in the comparison picture I posted earlier I noted that the generator pump had a flat top. That's obviously true with that picture but you shouldn't take that to mean that a pump with rounded top is always an alternator pump - generator pumps can have rounded tops, too. The key thing to note is the pivot point.