electrical issues...a shocking topic!

my car has issues...deep issues...everytime i go to start it i have to jump start it. i have checked every possible link, connection, cable, gauge, etc etc...it runs fine, when it i shot, it will sometimes start on it's own, sometimes it will not. i have put a brand new starter on it, it has a very well charged battery, the volt reg. check out, so whhat is going on here? any suggestions? HELP!!!!!
thanks fellow speedsterers!

julio
85rx-7 gsls-e
57 cmc-c speedster (with issues)

Fuel Pump

i hve an electrical fuel pump with a fuse and cutoff switch on it. i turn it off when the car is in storage.

You have to jump start it after how much down time? Sounds like an open short, if battery dies after short storage. Sounds like vapor lock when hot.

(Message Edited 9/29/2002 9:50:18 PM)

Does the battery check good when you are unable to start or is it discharged? This was not clear in your description. When my car arrived on the moving van, it would not start even though the battery was good. The battery cables were jiggled and it started. Periodically, it would exhibit this same symptom, so I got out my cable/post cleaner and wire brushed it clean. It worked fine for a while and the connection seemed to be good and tight at the battery. After the last of several no starts, I got out the wrenches and REALLY tightened them down well. The problem has not happened since after many starts. Knock on wood. Moral for me and suggestion for you, make sure your battery terminal connections are very snug.
John H
2000 VS

I had a 56 healy that turned it lights on at night. Battery was dead every morning. (this should start alot of prince of darkness stories). As I was a young pup then I ended up disconnecting the battery(s) every nite. I totaled it before I found out what the real problem was, but you could remove the leads every nite and see if you can track it down.
ed

A little clarity would help with your description of events. With battery at full charge what happens? Do you just hear a clicking sound when trying to start the engine, or does the engine turn over, or does nothing hapeen? If the engine turns over is it turning at a normal starter cranking speed or is it slow and laborious? If the starter turns the engine over at what appears to be a normal speed what is the voltage at the coil positive terminal while cranking? If cranking speed is OK and coil voltage is good what is the voltage at the electric fuel pump?

after car sits for even a day or two, it will not start. when i do check the battery it showsa solid 12 volts in it. i even took battery to get checked and before i put it back in i wire brushed the terminals at botht eh cables and battery. i even went as far as putting new terminals on the cables just becuase i did not like the way the old ones looked and it still does the same. i have checked every stop of the wires from the generator, to the volt reg,m, starter, etc. any ideas as to where else i could check.? solenoids? relays, etc? thanks again

Fiberglass cars can have ground problems if everything isn't squared away and making good connections, that is the nature of the beast. Check your various grounds including the ground strap, etc. There is a way to test for mystery battery drains, maybe George knows how.

Julio, From the sound of your description, you don't have a power drain, because you are showing ample voltage when the car won't start. I would replace the other end of the battery cables. Your post wasn't specific, but you said you replaced the cable ends. I assume you mean the battery ends only. (I am also assuming you tightened the ground end, and the solenoid end.) Cables themselves can be problematic. I once had a bad battery cable that had good fittings on both ends, but it had been severely bent for so long, the copper frayed at that spot. I could only tell by feeling it with the car running, since it was hot at that spot. Try replacing ends, then cables. They are pretty cheap. Good luck. Regards, Jim

If you have a drain, you have to find out which major circuit is a fault. This usually entails disconnecting various circuits at the fuse box until you locate the one that causes the problem. Then you isolate each part of that (or those) circuits until you find the problem.

For instance, all circuits are disconnected (remove the fuses). With everything turned OFF connect an ammeter in series across each pair of fuse terminals; if you find one or more fuse terminals with a current draw something may be wrong.

But, some circuits may be wired on all the time, e.g., a clock, cigarette lighter, radio constant power, or "courtesy lights" that go on when you open a door. These circuits should be suspect from the get-go if you have a battery drain problem.

(Message Edited 10/2/2002 10:13:27 AM)

Julio,
Still one point needs clarification. When you attempt your start, what happens? Whirring sound, clicking sound or nothing at all? If you turn on your headlights and they are bright and go dim when you attempt your start, I think you should concentrate on your starter circuit, possibly checking the starter and solenoid connections first.
John H.

well, after much undoing of cables..i did manage to find one spot. as stated in one of the posts, a ground had frayed and was barely making connection. so i replaced it,, charged up the battery and walaa!!! no moire, clicking sound, no more whirring sound, car fires up right away. thanks for all the help fellas!!

julio

I love a happy ending,sob,sob.
Speaking of frayed...look into brakelines that are near the clutch mechanism within the tunnel(?)
I doused my driver's side floor insulation with brake fluid just recently. The culprit was a bad (Brazilian) master cylinder, but in replacing, found the potential for future probs...
MM