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Electrical Woes

Michael McKelveyMichael McKelveyAnn Arbor Supporting Member
I have a '67 turn signal switch and it looks like I have a 67-71 headlight relay.

The relay has S, 30, 56, 56a & 56b terminals.

At first I had no headlights.

Then I discovered the need to jumper between terminals 56 & 30. There was nothing connected to 30 originally.

Now the headlights come on but I can't switch between high and low beams.

I tried a jumper directly between the battery negative and the S terminal on the relay but it still didn't switch between high and low.

Also, when I pull the headlight switch all the way out the parking lights stay on. I expected them to go off when the headlights came on.

Now the next problem:

I have a fuse that instantly blows. It is on a wire that goes to my Accusump and Oberg oil filter warning light.

I hooked a test light to the + side of my battery and started poking around the area of my fuses checking for grounding. The incoming side of the fuse that blows, coming from IGN on the ignition switch, lit the lamp showing grounding. I discovered that if I turn the key on the ground condition goes away. With the key off, both the IGN and ACC terminals on the ignition switch lit the test light. This is an in-the-dash ignition switch, not column mounted. If I turn the key to ACC, that terminal no longer triggers the light but IGN still does.

Speaking of my headlights and ignition switch, I am supplying power to my headlights from the IGN terminal on the ignition switch rather than the BAT terminal. Can this ignition switch that is commonly used in Speedsters take the headlight current?

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

1957 CMC (Speedster) in Ann Arbor, MI

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Michael McKelveyMichael McKelveyAnn Arbor Supporting Member
I have a '67 turn signal switch and it looks like I have a 67-71 headlight relay.

The relay has S, 30, 56, 56a & 56b terminals.

At first I had no headlights.

Then I discovered the need to jumper between terminals 56 & 30. There was nothing connected to 30 originally.

Now the headlights come on but I can't switch between high and low beams.

I tried a jumper directly between the battery negative and the S terminal on the relay but it still didn't switch between high and low.

Also, when I pull the headlight switch all the way out the parking lights stay on. I expected them to go off when the headlights came on.

Now the next problem:

I have a fuse that instantly blows. It is on a wire that goes to my Accusump and Oberg oil filter warning light.

I hooked a test light to the + side of my battery and started poking around the area of my fuses checking for grounding. The incoming side of the fuse that blows, coming from IGN on the ignition switch, lit the lamp showing grounding. I discovered that if I turn the key on the ground condition goes away. With the key off, both the IGN and ACC terminals on the ignition switch lit the test light. This is an in-the-dash ignition switch, not column mounted. If I turn the key to ACC, that terminal no longer triggers the light but IGN still does.

Speaking of my headlights and ignition switch, I am supplying power to my headlights from the IGN terminal on the ignition switch rather than the BAT terminal. Can this ignition switch that is commonly used in Speedsters take the headlight current?

Any suggestions?

Thanks.
Gordon NicholsGordon NicholsMassachusetts 1993 CMC Supporting Member
OK, found a wiring diagram so here goes (stand back!):

I have a '67 turn signal switch and it looks like I have a 67-71 headlight relay.

The relay has S, 30, 56, 56a & 56b terminals.

"S" (for "switch") goes to the headlight toggle (momentary) switch that is closed when you pull on the directional lever. That is marked "S" on the directional lever switch, but you'll probably have to probe around with an ohmmeter to find which lead it is. The other side of that lever switch must be grounded for the headlight relay to toggle.

"30" and "56" get connected together

"56" goes to the "56" on your VW headlight switch, or the headlight side of whatever switch you're using

"56A" goes to Low Beam

"56B" goes to high beam

(note: I may have hi and lo beams swapped. See what you get and you may have to swap them at the relay if I get them backwards)

At first I had no headlights.

Then I discovered the need to jumper between terminals 56 & 30. There was nothing connected to 30 originally.

Now the headlights come on but I can't switch between high and low beams.

I tried a jumper directly between the battery negative and the S terminal on the relay but it still didn't switch between high and low.

If there is constant 12V connected to the "30" on the relay and you ground the "S" terminal, then it should toggle (you'll hear it "click") If it doesn't, then you're relay is toast. I think you might have to ground the relay to the frame via the mounting bracket, but I may have that confused with a different year.

Also, when I pull the headlight switch all the way out the parking lights stay on. I expected them to go off when the headlights came on.

I think you have the parking and tail lights reversed, or you have the switch wired backwards. On the headlight switch for that year;

The heavier "30" goes to the generator/alternator, the lighter "30" goes to the fuse panel 12V input and then to the ignition switch "30". Personally, I don't like wiring them this way, but that's what the manual shows

"56" goes to the headlight relay "56" to feed the lights (the headlight switch is used as a "pass-through" for this circuit - I usually take the output of this switching relay and run a pair of other relays to get a little more current to the headlights - I also run 85/100 watt headlight bulbs (don't try this at home!)).

"57" goes to the front parking lights,

"58" goes to the tail lights

Now the next problem:

I have a fuse that instantly blows. It is on a wire that goes to my Accusump and Oberg oil filter warning light.

Gordon NicholsGordon NicholsMassachusetts 1993 CMC Supporting Member
I hooked a test light to the + side of my battery and started poking around the area of my fuses checking for grounding. The incoming side of the fuse that blows, coming from IGN on the ignition switch, lit the lamp showing grounding. I discovered that if I turn the key on the ground condition goes away. With the key off, both the IGN and ACC terminals on the ignition switch lit the test light. This is an in-the-dash ignition switch, not column mounted. If I turn the key to ACC, that terminal no longer triggers the light but IGN still does.

OK, so I've now read that last paragraph half a dozen times and I even drew a diagram of the internals of the switch trying to figure it out and I'm STILL confused, but I think the switch is acting right and would rule that out.

I would suggest removing both of the wires (Oberg and Accusump indicators) going to the fuse - the output side of the fuse should be free of wires. Then, find an ohmmeter and test the resistance of each lamp's lead going to that fuse. The one showing a dead short is the culprit, and the other lead should show some resistance but not a dead short. As a rule, I never use a probe light, preferring to use an ohmmeter or a voltmeter to discern subtle differences. Once you find the dead short, trace that lead back to it's lamp - I think you'll find that it's shorting somewhere along the path, because the other side of the lamp is a ground provided by a sender (that's how they work).

Speaking of my headlights and ignition switch, I am supplying power to my headlights from the IGN terminal on the ignition switch rather than the BAT terminal. Can this ignition switch that is commonly used in Speedsters take the headlight current?

NO! Your ignition(key) switch is rated for a max of about 10 amps and is designed for JUST THE IGNITION!! Your headlights could draw well over 20 amps or more if you're running H3/H4 hi-intensity bulbs. You should move the "30" (12V input) lead of your headlight switch to a commonly hot position on your fuse panel - preferably one that can handle 15-20 amps max. The "BAT" terminal of the ignition switch is (believe it or not) NOT FUSED on many VW diagrams so if you wired things to the diagram it puts your ignition switch and it's input wiring in jeopardy (and is why some VW's ign. switch wiring got charred over time).

Alternatively, you could use a relay to power the headlight switch, rather than the ignition switch, and wire that relay's closing signal to the "ign" side of the key switch. That way, the lights would go out automatically when the key is turned off, the relay draws very little current and would be insignificant to the ignition switch. The headlights would be turned on/off with the regular headlight switch, but would always go off when the key is turned off. Handy sometimes, and a nuisance other times, but not for me to decide.

Hope this helps!
oldyeleroldyeler
That dimmer relay may be stuck in one mode or the other I'd carefully pop the cover and inspect it , It may be cleanable/ adjustable. to correct it.

30 is the power supply.

S is the tip switch on the turn signal stalk.

56 is power from the light switch.

56a is the yellow wire output to low beam.

F is the white wire high beam

If you want the lights to die when the key is off you will have to add a stout 30 amp relay on the power supply going into the light switch. and the key switch power ,supplies the relay solenoid to trip it ON.
It is best to pull the headlight switch power straight from the battery,NON fused.

A napa brand mid 80 GM type AC relay with a plug is a good relay
Michael McKelveyMichael McKelveyAnn Arbor Supporting Member
Thank you all for your replies.

Gordon, the headlight switch I am using is VW, '72 and later.

It has terminals 58 to park & tail lights, 30 constant live, 56 to headlight relay, X power in for headlights and 58b for dimmable dash lights.

The blowing fuse issue is not related to the headlight problem. I have a single wire going to the rear of car and it is connected to the electric valve on the Accusump and a pressure switch that looks like a VW brake light switch on the oil filter. When the oil filter loads up a light on the dash comes on.

I am wondering if '72 and later VWs kept the parking lights on with the headlights.
Michael McKelveyMichael McKelveyAnn Arbor Supporting Member
Gordon, it looks like '67 was the last year the light switch had a terminal 57 for the parking lights separate from the tail lights.

So, I ordered a '67 switch.

It is interesting that the '67 wiring diagram shows the wire going directly from 57 to the parking lights without passing through a fuse.

I also ordered a new relay. If that solves the high/low situation then I will only have the blowing fuse and non-honking horn to deal with.
oldyeleroldyeler
If you look again you will notice that both the right and left High and low beams are fused individualy after they leave the dimmer relay.. That's where a car will most likely get damage at the very front or the rear. Id fuse the turn signal outputs individualy also, that will help protect your signal switch

Oh 67 was the first year of sealed beams without the glass headlamp buckets 66 was the first year for 12 volt system too.
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