Emblems for Spyder, part #s?

That's the one that Speedster owners use for their hood handle.  No gasket under it - it sits in a recess on the aluminum hood handle.  It's flat but quite small.

I think Fibersteel sells the right crest but the 356 crest will not fit. The Spyder one is flat.

I don't know about yours but anything that has a post on the bottom did not work for my Spyder. I don't believe the gasket would work either because you 3M emblem tape it to the car.

Spyders didn't use a gasket. They used a phenolic board, like an old orange-ish-brown circuit board.

I couldn't find one with a blank space big enough. But I found a modern epoxy circuit board, around a 1/16th of an inch thick. It's a translucent green. Anyway, I cut it slightly larger than the crest and sanded a bevel on it all around. A dot of silicone top and bottom keeps it from rotating. I drilled the single hole and used a push-nut on the underside of the hood.

Biggest Spyder faux-pax ever? Using a 911 crest, they're WAY too big.

Extra points if you can find an early 356 crest that has orange instead of red in it.

In the early 2000s, Dario Calandra used to sell all manner of Spyder parts that looked correct. The crest underliner was one of them. He also sold e-brake handles, shifters, mirrors, plexi windshields. You could go broke getting it "right".

Can the 3M tape be used on the script as well as the crest?

It seems like the most common sellers are out of stock. Fibersteel does not mention a part number. I was looking at the emblems on eBay it seems the only place you can find them in stock

@DannyP posted:

Spyders didn't use a gasket. They used a phenolic board, like an old orange-ish-brown circuit board....

You could go broke getting it "right".

Phenolic board! so that's what that is!

And yeah, too on that second sentiment. I should've been a doctor.

I guess you can use emblem tape. Why is everyone so afraid to just drill a damn hole? It's only a plastic fantastic!

Ed, I'm sure you've noticed I only installed the Porsche script and badge on the front. I thought it would make the rear too busy with the grilles, headrest, and red darts already there. Plus I'll be adding some snap posts for the top eventually.

I'll be making a nice aluminum strip to protect the cockpit bulkhead paint from further damage. I have a few scratches in it already. However, I'm not spending $225 for that at Fibersteel! Sheesh!

I did the same as Danny. The crest is in the front and the script in in the back. It does, in my opinion, look to busy with crest and script on the front and back. I offset this by adding a Porsche grille badge on the back.

I used the emblem tape because it could be corrected if I did it wrong.

You can emblem tape the script. It took two versions of an exacto knife and a sh*&load of patience. The hardest part of the emblem tape on the script is making sure you cannot see the tape through the script (loop of the "P", "O" and loop of the "R").

From my experiences, on the front and rear Porsche scripts the scripts pin angle changes as it is inserted into the hole into the fiberglass you have drilled.  I cut away three of the five pins and use a couple of well placed drops of Super Glue to secure the script in place ... on a flat surface this is not an issue.

Phenolic Resin circuit board ! Now there's a blast from the past !   Sometimes it was called Linen Bakelite in the olden days.   I still have a 1/4" thick sheet of it somewhere. It was around before acrylics/plastic.  It stunk something terrible if it was burned in any way ! That smell was all too familiar in car electrical fires ! Lucas should have patented that smell !.................Bruce

X2 on the Bakelite - I had forgotten about the "linen" part.  Everybody thinks of old black telephones when you say "Bakelite".  That stuff was just phasing out as I was getting into the Electronics Biz and I totally remember that acrid smell when it burned.      

Lots of electrical parts from my '69 Beetle donor had that  Phenolic stuff in it, like the substrate inside the headlight switch or emergency flasher switch that held everything together.

The fiberglass printed circuit boards of today can take a LOT of heat w/o igniting or outgassing - (they outgas during the manufacturing process), and are probably much cheaper to produce, too, while being impervious to just about anything, which also makes them almost impossible to recycle.  While I've seen them in colors, 99% seem to be that pukey green color.

@DannyP posted:

I'll be making a nice aluminum strip to protect the cockpit bulkhead paint from further damage. I have a few scratches in it already. However, I'm not spending $225 for that at Fibersteel! Sheesh!

Back when I was still working, I scored a roll of this vinyl tape that the props dept used to protect the marks for the set pieces on the stage floor.

AFAIK, it’s the same 3M protective vinyl that they use for ClearBras, but it’s adhesive tape.

Like the old “Frosty on the Roll, Invisible on the Job” commercial, it’s light brown on the roll but invisible on the bulkhead. And it’s really durable. I have to replace it every year or so, but it’s kept the paint on my bulkhead from damage.

I can’t remember the number off the top of my head, but I’ll check it out next tome I’m down at the garage. I’m sure you can find it locally at any 3M supplier. Probably online, too.

eta: It looks like this 8600 series Polyethylene tape. But in 2”.

Nah, I'll make it out of aluminum. It will a) look cool and b) cover up the DEEP scratches that are through the paint. I can probably make it for $20, plus some pop rivets LOL.

@DannyP posted:

Nah, I'll make it out of aluminum. It will a) look cool and b) cover up the DEEP scratches that are through the paint. I can probably make it for $20, plus some pop rivets LOL.

I've always wondered how guys were putting in rivets with little to no rear access.
I just learned Pop rivets are available with a closed end.
Is that what you're going to use?

Nah, I'll just use regular aluminum pop-rivets. I'm not trying to replicate an original, just trying to keep the car in good shape.

I have about given up on getting the correct part numbers for the Porsche Spyder crest emblem so why won't switch gears and just go with period correct Subaru emblems, since that's what the motor is going to be.

Look at the Word document in the  550 Sypder Replica Cloud Ordering/Exterior/Emblems folder and see if any of those specific links to this emblem are what you need. God forbid you use a Subaru emblem.

I was just being cheeky...

Grin Grin, Wink Wink, Nudge Nudge, Say No More
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLRZ0dIvwHY

Honestly, it's a replica. Put whatever badging you want on it. Or not. It's your car.

I think those "Subaru" badges in "Spyder" font are the ballz!

11/10, would rock.

@edsnova posted:

I think those "Subaru" badges in "Spyder" font are the ballz!

11/10, would rock.

maybe i should get a couple for the engine bay spark plug caddy!

I  will have the Subaru Pleiades emblem on the top of my transaxle prominently positioned........................Bruce.

Thats Handsome, How will you attach it? How is that eagle attached?

3M automotive double sided high density tape found at any autoparts store. The Eagle isn't going on the trans though, just the Subaru logo. I really like that symbol !  Subaru is their name for the constellation Pleiades....................Bruce

@aircooled posted:

3M automotive double sided high density tape found at any autoparts store. The Eagle isn't going on the trans though, just the Subaru logo. I really like that symbol !  Subaru is their name for the constellation Pleiades....................Bruce

I thought Subaru translated to “Must Drive Under the Speed Limit” since that what the majority of Subaru drivers do while in the passing lane.

@edsnova posted:

Phenolic board! so that's what that is!

And yeah, too on that second sentiment. I should've been a doctor.

has the liner disintegrated from this supposed all original  Spyder?
https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/23595/lot/140/

Probably!