Emergency brake/hand brake fitment issues

Hi all,

This is my first post,as I have just registered.

I am currently building a Tygan/Chesil kit here in the U.K, which is going great.

My question to all you guys, is, has anyone fitted a genuine porsche emergency lever and operating mech to there replica, in place of the vw tunnel mounted lever.
So far I have sourced the umbrella type porsche lever that fits under the dash, and also the bell crank arm that fits to the front beam and the cables. I have kind of figured out how make it all work together, but it would be great to talk to anyone who has any info on this topic.

I will and some pictures of my build progress, once I figure out how to upload them to the site, any tips!!! (not being that computer literate!!!!) Cheers all Darren

Welcome to the site. :)

i sourced a bus one and was thinking the same (before mny carpet gets cut)

As I am sure you will hear from those w/ IMs, they provide an umbrella handle type e-brake, mounted up in the original position. Exactly how they do it, and if they use real Porsche parts, I do not know. Perhaps IM will tell you, or others here that know the details.

If anyone has an IM replica, any chance of some photos of the set up??

Thanks Darren

Darren:

Contact Simon Hambly at: simon.hambly at virgin.net

He has a Chesil, too, and I believe he's fitted a Porsche e-brake handle up under the dash as you wish to do.

He's also in the UK and plugged into the kit car and Speedster scene over there so can probably provide much additional help and info.

He's one of the absolute best home mechanics most of us on here have ever seen.

Gordon
One of the "Speedstah Guys" from South Carolina

Simon's gorgeous car was featured in the most recent issue of Kit Car magazine. I really like those seats he has.

I have already looked at simons car at few shows over here, superb car, though he isnt using a porsche e-brake set up. It seems no one in the U.K has gone to the trouble to use the porsche e-brake, its seems maybe more trouble to do it, rather than just retaining the vw brake.
However, im going to carry on and give it a go!!! Also, I still need some assistance on how to upload photos to my posts, so I can show you guys my progress.

cheers again Darren

Darren:

go to the "Photos" tab at the top of the home page for the site, and you should already have (I believe) a folder under your username. Click on "Add a photo" and follow the prompts. Be aware that your files should be under 1.5MB, or something like that, to upload (like web site or email size), unless you donate to the site to get larger file size/quantity capability.

Glad to see you're "pushing the envelope" over there!!

gn

Henry installed the under dash hand brake on my car. It may have been one of the firsts. I don't have any pictures and will not be under the car to take some anytime in the future. However, if I get a chance I will do it for you.

Henry had to fabricate a couple of pivots for the bell crank to mount on, a cable comes from the handle thru the body to the bell crank and then there is a single cable that goes from the cable thru the tunnel to a flat bar that joins the right and left cable.

One of my first meetings of Paul Harford, ex-Butch owner/driver, was when he came over to the house to see how it was installed. He took the parts to his longtime mechanic and they determined that it would be extreamly difficult due to Butch being a pan car.

I personally don't know why that is, but I would guess it is the structure of the frame horns on the pan (IM being spread much farther apart) and some interference with the pan itself.

I'd guess that it would just take some time and a lot of thought.

Have fun and good luck.

"Ex-Butch owner"? Didn't know Butch sold. Where did he go?

Hopefully managed to sort out a few photos of my build, so far.

What do you think!??

And some more, not in correct order though, oops!

Think!!? This a very, very clean project -- so much powder coating I can't imagine. By the look of things so far, this car is going to be perfect. No detail has escaped your eye -- and you are determined to get it just the way you want it. It's why they call 'em kitcars.

Darren - Beautiful workmanship! By the looks of it, we should be asking YOU for advice!!!

PS on the topic: P-style e-brake. I bought my car as a turn-key, and really REALLY did not like the VW hand brake that normally comes. I asked builder if he could do P-style umbrella handle and he said that that was doable but such a terrific pain in the ass that he would not do it and I would not want to pay for it. FWIW, I avoided the VW handle and look by having an in-line brake lock installed. This is a really cheap ($20.00?) valve that goes in the rear brake line and in my case is installed just behind the driver's side seat. It is just a little knob, which is all that shows. You stomp the brake pedal and push the knob down and hold it there while releasing the pedal. It locks up the rear brakes via the hydraulics. To release, you press the brakes a bit, and pull the knob up: good to go. One issue: it may be that a safety inspection by the authorities will not allow this sort of e-brake, insisting that the mechanism must be separate from the main circuit in all respects. Depends on jurisdiction, and/or local garage where inspection is done. (aka baksheesh). If you look ijn my gallery at interior shots, you will see no brake handle. Probably, you will not see the little knob behind the seat either.

the inline hydraulic locks are problematic for regular use. You should do some homework on that matter on thesamba.com

they tend to lock and not the way that you want.

Very nice work, Darren! I fear that you may have made a rather drastic mistake, though, as it appears that your steering wheel is on the wrong side.

Ok, ok, I know it's been said before ;-)

Lane, Ha Ha!!

Darren - how did you get the front bumper to stay attached to the body with no chassis (picture "porsche build 004.JPG" above)?

Paul, On the Chesil/Tygan kit, the front and rear bumpers fit to the body only via x4 mounting points, and are not bolted to the chassis in any way. The bumper is shaped under the bottom edge to allow it to fit under the front of the body, to give some strength I guess.
Im very happy with the way the body fits together, so far! My next step is to mount the body on the chassis, so we will see how it goes!

I understand that the in-line brake locks can be jammed in the ON position if you really mash the brake pedal before engaging. The trick is to use moderate pedal pressure. Also, if it does really lock and can't be released, even by equalizing the prssure on the other side by stepping on the pedal, you can always crack a bleeder and let the pressure off that way. Such has not happened to me.

Darren, that's a really nice job you're doing.
Exceptionally clean. What did you use to seal the welds where you shortened the pans?

Nice job Darren! Love the oil filter.

Cory, When I shortened the pans, I cut them on a 45 degree angle then overlapped the sheet metal by about 3/4" then fully welded them from both sides, so I didnt need to use sealer. On the centre tunnel of the chassis I seam welded the pans on, then had the whole chassis media blasted, zinc sprayed then powder coated in gloss black. I ran a neat bead of polyurethane sealer along the centre seam. Im pleased with the results, and hopefully it should be water tight!

That zinc coating will do wonders for longevity. Nice work. Bravo.