Endplay

How bad is this endplay ?

http://www.youtube.com/user/sandvik996tt#p/a/u/0/V43Zjf2QSi4

That appears to be excessive........

Wet some string and wrap it around and let it dry, that should fix er' right up ~

How many shims are in there, pretty sure has to be three. Did you torque the flywheel to spec?

That's way to much end play should be .004 to .006 with three shim's depending on application .

" Wet some string and wrap it around and let it dry, that should fix er' right up ~ "

Bad joke ? The endplay is 0.5mm it should bee 0.07 too 0.15 mm

ya - that is like 10 times more than the max be.

you need to re-shim.

is everything else installed (seals, etc)?

i just set my endplay, and it hardly moves at all. 0.04" is essentially nothing

Is it possible too reshime that much endplay ?

Not normally....It might force the crank and rod alignment out of spec, not to mention the thrust bearing faces.......

Prestart of the newbuild engine, checking the oilpressure

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=y0tySVBHlhY

Are those replica guages?

No, they are vdo vintage

Morten -- I hope you are paying attention to what Roland said above. .004-.006 is your target. Measure it before you put in your front case seal (so that the crank can slide back and forth easily). And measure it with the FULL 300+ lb.ft. of torque.

You must use three shims, never two. I've "heard" four shims are ok -- if the combination of four doesn't exceed the maximum thickness of any combo of three. If you can't get there with a maximum thickness of three shims then something is wrong.

Are you using thick gaskets between the flywheel and the end of the crank?

As a footnote: I'd recommend a chomemoly gland nut on your 2332. I'll show you two pieces of a stock gland nut from my engine if you are interested. From experience, it is no fun when the flywheel drops off the end of the crank.

It looks like in the video you are rotating the flywheel to pull it out. Obviously you don't want to be bouncing your gauge over a bump while rotating it. You want to measure the thrust in only a direct in / out travel. If the front oil seal is not installed, the crank will (should) slip back and forth freely. .004 - .006 will be hardly noticable by feel.

Click: you're close
Clack: you're terminal
Clank: grab a broom and a box

With that much endplay, either you don't have three shims, or the engine was run with the wrong endplay too long and now the back of the case is no good. Basicaly with the oil presure issues, I would say that the back of the case is shot. Complete tear down and rebuild. You may get away with a thrust cut rear bearing and a line bore.

Wait a minute, before getting too crazy. I gather from the title of Morton's "oil pressure test" that this is a newly built engine -- a 2332. So I'm guessing we're talking a new crank and new case and new flywheel. Thus the tolerances should be all "new".

The problem may be as simple as he is not pulling the flywheel tight enough to seat against the end of the crank properly. There could be a number of reasons. I have experienced the first three of the following:

1. As I mentioned above, he may have gaskets between the flywheel and the end of the crank (you know that variety of gaskets that come in gasket kit?). If he has any of those gaskets, the ones with the dowel holes in them, he should remove them. They will increase the thrust distance.
2. Maybe his gland nut is too long, and bottoming in the crankshaft before pulling the flywheel tight. Or, maybe his gland nut washer is too thin, causing the same thing. Or, maybe a combination of both.
3. Maybe he has a dowel(s) that isn't seated fully into the crankshaft, or is too long and is sitting proud of the flywheel surface under the gland nut washer. Those dowels have to be lower than the flywheel surface when the flywheel is fully torqued.
4. Or as mentioned before, he could have no shims installed. I'm thinking that's not the case, but if it were then an end play of .047 might make sense. It is still a little large but within the range of correcting with three shims (the thickest being .0142

Regarding oil pressure video. Run the starter longer. Just for fun I went out to the garage and simulated your test. On a cold engine w/ 20-50 weight oil my oil pressure looks exactly like yours for the same period of time you are cranking. With in a few seconds longer it starts moving quickly from 20 up to 40. Of course I have 20,000 miles on my engine so maybe my oil pressure isn't new build awesome. But I don't have any pressure reliability problems.

If your pressure doesn't ever get past 20, you might want to look around. Is your case machined for "full flow" oil routing to a remote oil filter? (Probably any case machined for 2332 is machined for full flow.) If so, did you plug the output hole in your oil pump like you should have?

You are right Mark, this is the prestart too check that I have oil pressure before I start the engine. The endplay is now 0.1 mm

0.1mm, good! So, what was the story?

IMHO 0.1mm is too close of a tolerance.

Really? I thought .003" is perfect, .003" - .006" is the tolerance.

Isn't .1mm about .0039"? Why is that too skinny?

.003 is minimum, my personal opinion, but I go a tad more on the EP setting and have not had an issue.