engine and transmission configuration

I am planning my speedster project and budgeting now. I will be purchasing a 220 HP engine from a top notch vendor and would like to know a thing or two about transmissions. First of all,should I keep the stock 4 speed transmission (rebuilt of course)or go with a five speed? My goal is to get an adrenaline rush from acceleration not top speed. Secondly what other type of modifications would be required to accomplish this task?

Always a pleasure getting feedback from you guys!

The trans depends on where the powerband is in the rpm range. If you have an engine with alot of low to mid range torque I think a 4 speed would be a more economic choice. But if you have 220hp only over say 5000 I'd go for a 5 speed close ratio with fifth = 4th gear in a regular box.
JMO
ed

Peter,

I

A true 220 BHP engine is not a god choice for a daily driven vehicle. Too much power, and cold tires, on a cold road, or especially a wet road is a scary thing in a car this light.

Bigger is not always the best! Just right is the key.

As for trannys: A good engine builder should be able to plot your power curves before the engine is even assembled, but the best way to get the perfect transaxle is to dyno the engine. The builder can then make his recommendations on gear ratios based upon your power outputs, tire sizes, and vehicle weight coupled with your desire for speed.

This ain't easy.

Jake Raby
Raby's Aircooled Technology
www.aircooledtechnology.com

Well, I've got to agree with Jake, you'd better have some serious rubber on the back. I've got a mid-range 1776 and those god awful kelly Michlin look alikes and the car is an absolute handful when the road is wet. Am planning to replace the tires this winter but I imagine the rear will still step out. Gotta stay alert.
ed

Jakes right on. Since most replicas weight about 1600lbs, 220 HP would really be overkill. If you want that much speed, buy a Subaru WRX STI. It at least has all-wheel drive to keep it glued to the ground.
-=theron

Thanks for the reply guys.

Maybe I should re-phrase my question the following way: I want a car with performance in acceleration. Here in Montreal there are far too many WRXs and M3s for my liking. The following plea goes out to guys like Jake and the others. What setup do I need to be able to duplicate the performance of those 6 beetles tested in the June issue of VW Trends? The best one had 226BHP, weighed 2000LBS and did 0-60MPH in 4.49 seconds! That's the performance I want and I want to plan ahead to get it (no afterthoughts).

I enjoy the replys and most of you guys seem to agree with each other and you have all been there!

BTW, my brother has a CASCAR team (Canadian NASCAR equivalent) and he knows how to setup a car with the right rubber.

Thanks again and I hope I'm not rambling or being unrealistic!

Peter

That answer is VERY easy. Notice all them except one had a Type IV engine.TIV engines can have 200 ponies and not drive like a 2 stroke dirtbike- on or off only....They drive like a 911 and even sound like one.

What you desire is what i do all day, everyday. Its all in the math. Those are not drag cars, with a TIV you can hold your speed without frying the engine for extended amounts of time.

Bigger is not better in 95%of the instances. Sounds like you need my "Extender" or my "Gladiator" engine combination.

Thanks Jake,

I guess I asked the right question the second time around.

I will take a look at your engines.

Merci beaucoup!

My wesite will getting an update over Turkey day....It needs it very badly!

If you are contemplating anything with me, nothing beats a scheduled phone call one evening. I can share more in 30 minutes that you can learn in a month otherwise.

My new IM Speedster dyno'd 220 BHP with the belt and muffler on; seriious power comes in at about 4,000 RPM and is strong to about 7,750 RPM. The engine is built on an aftermarket aluminum case with premium components (expensive).

A 901 5-speed was rebuilt to as-new condition and fitted with a torque-biased limited slip differential and a very carefully chosen close ratio gearset (also expensive; new 904 input shaft required for the 2nd gear ratio I chose).

Suspension (torsion bars, anti-roll bars, and shocks) has been upgraded and the car is fitted with four wheel disk brakes. Tires are Michelin 195/60x15". Steering is non-assisted VW Golf rack and pinion.

Depending on the car's final weight it will probably be a high 11 or low 12 second street car.

You can do it, but it will be expensive.

Peter:

Being in Montreal, are you considering attending the Carlisle, PA, speedster gathering next May? It would be nice to have a good group of north-of-the-border people going there.

Peter, my 2 cents worth is that Jake builds awesome engines, but they are awefully expensive. There are a few guys here with his engines, but most have regular type one engines because you can get pretty close to the same power for about half the money. There are a number of engine builders around who can do an excellent job for you. Most of the car builders know the engine builders, and can have an engine built for you to go with the car.

The other decision is what you want for your transmission/final drive combination. If you want to be able to cruise on the freeway at 3000 rpm at 60 mph you will have a taller fourth that will mean your acceleration will drop off when shifting from 3rd to 4th. The alternative is a close ratio transmission through all four gears so you can beat anything up to whatever speed, but it will mean cruising on the freeway at 60 mph at about 4000rpm. There is always a compromise.

Initial expense is higher but you MUST remember that you are receiving a 100% complete engine. There is nothing else to buy except a fuel pump and oil cooler. Thats it.

Nickel and dime items run parts bills up really quickly. everyting on my engines is in place, torqued up and ready to go, even the clutch and pressure plate. Thats the only way to balance the assembly correctly.

A complete package is the only way to fly, just bolt it up and drive...Its already dynoed, adjusted and doesn't need a thing done to it.

It also receives top quality parts only, thats why they seldom ever break and stay totally in tune.
There is no substitute for a complete engine and tranny configuration engineered to work together!

As for being expensive, I have no prices listed because every engine is different, so until someone talks to me on the phone I don't even make a close guesstimate.

"Quality and dedication are not expensive, they are priceless"

I don't have 5 engine builders, or even 3......Just me and Brent- Thats it, and I still have to do machine work, balancing and build cooling systems also. Too many hands, and too many employees get in the way of mechanical artwork! I'd rather work a 20 Hour day, as to pay 5 ungrateful, half assed employees to ruin parts and break tools! (I'm really hard to work for)

In short, one gets what he pays for!

Many times guys buy atleast one, and maybe two engines before they come to me once and for all. Some guys call and talk to me, go to the darkside, and call me back after something grenades....we start over and they just drive!

Jake:

I've got a 2,110 T1 that I built up myself last Winter. It's been running great all Summer - only had a minor oil leak at the pressure sensor - good power and all that, and now has about 1,500 miles on it.

Question: In years past (like during the 70's) when I had about 1,000 miles on a new engine, I used to pull it and check/re-torque the heads. I seldom found that they needed it, but checked them as a matter of course. Is this truly necessary if it was assembled correctly and is this something you would recommend?

Thanks, Gordon

Pete, Are you just interested in straightaway speed? Your friends knowledge of chassis /tires setups for oval cars may not help you. If you are looking at front end launching acceleration you are going to focus on the rear wheel traction and front to rear weight distribution. With Drag racing your concern is the rear traction whereas oval racing your are looking at all four corners. Setting up an oval car is definitley more difficult than a drag car. Have you noticed that all those cars in the DYNO competition in VW Trends have turbos. The turbo will make a big difference however your engine will be short lived. The extra heat from a turbo in a speedster engine compartment would potentially be at risk of a fire. None of the tubro'd Bug's have closed engine compartments. Extra dollars would be need to insulated and add a remote fire surpression unit.
The reason I am going with a Raby motor is Jake's reputation of building a great motor. It took months of talking to VW owners,searching the web and visiting forums to finally make the final descision. I will be driving my Raby 2270 cc T4 speedster alot longer that someone with a 220HP T1.
Hey Jake .....run out of Hot Pockets yet!

Joe S

Gordon, if you used good quality studs/nuts, checked the threads on each (I usually run a tap through the nuts and a die over the studs), lubed the threads with engine oil, and torqued to spec then IMO they should probably not need retorquing. However, the stock cases are a magnesium-aluminum alloy so it certainly couldn't hurt.

With the procedure above one of the new aluminum cases should definitely not need to be retorqued.

You guys rock! All this tech talk makes me want to jump into some cover-alls and get to work on my car. I dont know what I would work on cuz it's runnin great. But what the hell I guess I'll change the oil tonight.
David.

David, are the side curtains that you made for sale? I'm still interested. Eddie

David,

To follow up with Eddies question. You were going to get back to me about the distance between the mounting posts of your side curtains. Hopefully they would fit the existing mounting holes on my JPS.

Bruce

The driver's desire is everything that the engine and trans should be set up for.

One of the main points to consider is finding a builder who is willing to take the time to use his experience and knowledge to configure the drivetrain to perform where YOU desire the power, for the longevity that is desired.

Thats the difference that separates the boys from the men.

George B: Re: re-torquing heads after run-in.......
Found our early on that I started out with an aluminum case and, yes, I lubed everything with either German assembly lube or a mix of 10 wt oil and STP (my personal favorite), all hardware was new,new,new and I cleaned all threads with a tap/die before assembly. However, I never lube the threads on head bolts/studs as I believe it gives false torque readings and tends to stretch the bolts/studs. Be interesting to get Jake's or Pat's input on this. My mentor always said "torque'em up DRY".

I've always re-torqued the heads after 1,000 miles or so, and probably will do these, too, but was wondering if that was common practice these days. The guys at the local Harley machine shop up the street tell me "it can't hurt", especially if they're easy to get at, so - What the hell! Gives me something to do to impress the neighbors later this Winter! But, again, on the engines I've assembled, I've never found anything loose beyond 3% - 5% of the spec'd torque setting.

Thanks for the input.......Gordon

Something that I have never read about in this forum (from any member)is the option of nitrous oxide as an on-tap supplemental increase of horsepower. What are the benefits/drawbacks? Does it make sense to build a reliable T1 or T4 engine with about 100BHP and have a 50-70BHP boost of NOS when needed? What would be the cost to build this type of engine with NOS in mind? Also what about turbos? I know they produce more heat in the engine compartment but again does it make sense to build a reliable T1 or T4 engine with about 100BHP and have a turbo with a boost knob?

Many questions, I welcome your advice.

BTW, My goal is 0-60 MPH in less than 4.5 seconds.
(see June 2003 VW Trends,High Performance Beetles)

Peter, Nitrous is only of value for drag type racing. Most of us don't see the practicality of drag racing a speedster. An engine needs to have an incredibly beefed up bottom end to take the stress of nitrous. also you can only push that nitrous button for 10-15 "SECONDS" ......any longer and you run the real risk of grenading the engine into a 1000 pieces.
So think about it..... special engine strengthening ( big money) Nitrous system ( $ plus complexity to a VW engine), unusual stress on all components......all for a 15 second burst of speed.
Thats why turbochargers, and blowers are much more practical because they give a broader and more consistent power band, that are significantly easier on the components.

Of course if the drag strip is your goal....nitrous is the ticket ( and lots of money for blown engine rebuilds)

Gclarke

Thanks Gary,

Assuming I go the turbo route, any sites or manufacturers you can recommend?

Will a T1 or T4 with a turbo perform better (faster in acceleration) than a normally aspirated more HP engine?

A lot of questions, but planning to get it right the first time!

Peter,

For your T-1 needs check out Pat Downs at CB Performance.

The TIV is not Turbo Friendly....The TI is a better Turbo base.

I have 2 engines taht work wellwith NOS in my TIV line up. They are made for the sole purpose.